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I'm throwing in the towel on functionality beyond the SE. I built an entirely new board, tested it on the SE, and it still didn't work on the Plus. I bought another 68000 socket, installed it on a different known-good Plus board, and still nothing. It boots into System 6 but will crash upon...

Hi Chris, Sounds like a neat system you've got there! My first suggestion would have been to clean the Killy clip - but you've already done that and reseated the accelerator. You mention it's a Plus - have you checked the analog board and logic board for cracked solder joints at the connector...

If you're just starting out, and have never used a heat gun - I wouldn't (at least not yet). There's no need for one when recapping an SE/30. If you need to start pulling PLCCs off, then you could make the case for one. The SE/30 is old enough now that the old caps almost fall right off without...

Apple part numbers 661-0920, 614-0039. Mine was dusty, but didn't show any signs of significant capacitor leakage.

I've been trying off and on for the past year to adapt one of these wonderful Bolle clones to my Macintosh Plus. I am running out of things to try, so I figured now is the time to throw out a request for help! I've got GAL16V8Ds installed (including the optional one at position U7), the 68030...

That's some serious damage cleaned up... well done! I've found the 610 boards to be temperamental, so nice work getting a few working. As for the audio issue, I've run into failed DFACs in the past. Given you have a few "dead" boards, I would try swapping U15 with one from a donor board. I don't...

I regularly use an HP MJF printer at work with PA-12. That material is extremely tough, but does flex more if the walls are thin when compared to FDM prints of the same thickness (1-2mm or so). That said, good luck actually snapping the MJF part in two - they're extremely durable. I have exposed...

Like I mentioned, this drive isn't currently working. Neither LED on the small PCB illuminate, and it won't read any discs. I was really hoping it would be as simple as swapping some capacitors, but there aren't any leaking from what I can see. Cleaning the laser lens didn't do anything either...

I have a few of these drives, and wanted to see how different they were from the more commonly found "caddy" drives inside the AppleCD SC Plus, CD150, and so on. This example I show below is not currently working. My thought was to repair it in the same way I've done in the past - replace the...

If you've never done SMD work, the first step I'd recommend is practicing on a junk board. You don't want to risk ruining something you actually care about. Tearing pads off, while fixable, isn't a beginner repair job. Good quality solder, flux, and braid is a must. Going cheap here will likely...

Hi Mike, I can probably tackle this project for you. Send me a PM with your location and we can work out the details.

This revision seems to be an earlier iteration of the SMP-120-EB unit. While the outside is identical, the PCBs vary between models. This particular unit was found in a Quadra 650 and a IIvx.

Cap Ref uF V Lead Spacing Location C14 10 25 2.5 Main board C25 47 25 2.5 Main board C13 22 50 2.5 Main board C81 1 50 2.5 Main board C31 22 50 2.5 Main board C52 220 50 5 Main board C60 2200 16 5 Main board C49 2200 10 5 Main board C44 2200 10 5 Main board C48 2200 10 5 Main...

Do you have the HDA and INI file for the network adapter on your SD card? In a tool like SCSI Probe, you should see "Processor" or "Dayna Processor" as one of your SCSI IDs.

That’s your PCMCIA eject button PCB. Plugs into your logic board - easy to miss!

You've got me thinking, and so I went through my stack of project boards. Sure enough, it's still there with a sticker "simiasmac - no chime". Dang! I need to get back to this board. Just too many other things in the way to complete first. I did end up fixing video on another board with similar...

If you've replaced all the caps in the power supply, it sounds like you need to clean it again. Some residual "fish" smell may be impossible to get rid of, but I suspect a cleaning will solve your problems (electrolyte fluid is conductive). Take the PSU out of its case and soak it in IPA (just...

Looks like an analog board issue for sure. Something with the vertical sweep. Have you verified your power supply voltage output is correct? I agree that starting with a reflow of all connectors on the AB is a good starting point. Also verify the 4-pin connector for the yoke is not burned and is...

Unfortunately, I have two analog boards with bad flybacks. Every once in a while, they will "click" and the picture will shudder for a moment. I tried an LC575 flyback as a replacement. While it technically works, I was unable to get the geometry adjusted correctly. Not super related to this...

If I am installing a new LED, I don't bridge the jumpers. If I'm using the amber LED original to the Mac, I'll bridge JP2. JP1 won't be bright enough.