Another way to clean isopropyl alcohol used for cleaning resin 3D prints

Branchus

Tinker Different Public Relations Liaison 2023
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Anyone who does resin printing knows that an inconvenient side effect of the cleaning process is accumulating large amounts of cloudy, goopy, resin-saturated isopropyl alcohol. Iso alcohol is needed to get the excess resin off printed models, but the alcohol doesn't dissolve the resin, it just dilutes it and makes it less viscous to aid in washing it off.

The more dirty alcohol you accumulate, the more clean stuff you have to buy to replace it, and at $100 AUD per 20L, for me it can become a bit of a financial drain.

And what do you do with this old iso alcohol? Some say to let it sit for a while to let the sediment settle to the bottom, pour off the clear stuff and then turf what's left. That seems like a bit of a waste, and I sure hope people aren't pouring that sediment down the sink. Others say to expose it to UV light so that the resin inside will form into a more solid sediment which can then be filtered out of the alcohol.

I've tried a few different methods, and been unsatisfied and frustrated with all of them. I've tried using coffee filters, but they get gummed-up so fast they stop filtering, and even when they are filtering, the stuff that comes out still looks like a milkshake. So I decided to try something different: distillation.

For anyone not familiar, distillation is where you heat the alcohol until it reaches boiling point and vaporises. In the instance of isporopyl alcohol, that's 82.3ºC. The vapour is completely pure, and all of the goopy, resin gunk is left behind. You then cool that vapour so that it condenses back into a liquid and collect it in a receptacle.

There are purpose-built devices for this, but I decided to "MacGyver" my own from household stuff. I used an off-the-shelf kitchen pressure cooker (the most expensive item in this build at $70 AUD), 5 metres of 8mm vinyl hose for $18, and a 5 litre bucket for $4.50. $92.50 all up.

I started by drilling a hole near the bottom of the bucket. The bucket would serve as the holder for the coiled hose, as well as the cooling system, by filling it with water (the faster you can cool the alcohol vapour, the faster it will condense into a liquid and less will be lost into the atmosphere). I fed the hose out the hole in the bucket and then sealed it with some hot glue.

Next I 3D printed four holders for the pipe. These would keep the hose arranged as a coil, so that the distilled alcohol could flow down and out the end of the pipe.

The pressure cooker I purchased has a safety vent in the middle of the lid. By a stroke of pure luck, that vent is the perfect size for the 8mm hose I had (I purchased the hose first).

So, the cloudy alcohol goes into the pressure cooker, gets brought to boiling point, the vapour comes up though the vent, into the hose and then through the spiral cooling system. It condenses into a liquid and collects into a receptacle at the end of the hose for re-use. It's simple science, and it works.

So now comes the FAQ:

Q: How clean is the alcohol that comes out from the distiller?
A: Crystal clear. Like it's straight from a new bottle.

Q: Do you lose any?
A: Yes, but the amount depends on the efficiency of the cooling, whether any vapour is escaping and just how dirty your alcohol was to begin with. In my tests I managed to get about 800ml of clean alcohol from 1 litre of dirty alcohol, so 80% retrieval.

Q: How long does it take?
A: It takes about 30 minutes to distill one litre. You can speed it up, but if your cooling isn't good enough you can lose alcohol that hasn't condensed and escapes out the end of the pipe as vapour.

Q: What is left in the saucepan after the distillation process?
A: That depends. If you catch it in time, there will be a horrible, goopy gunk that needs to be wiped up with paper towels and thrown away. If you let it go for too long, you end up with a crusty, bubbly, burned, toxic waste sediment that will become part of your pressure cooker for eternity. You'll have to scrape as much of it off as you can and throw it away. Definitely better than pouring it down the sink though.

Q: What will my wife think if I try this with her pressure cooker?
A: Please don't do that.

Q: Is it safe?
A: Not really. If you have your temperature too high, you could fill your kitchen with alcohol fumes, which aren't good. And alcohol is flammable, so be bloody careful.

Q: Any caveats?
A: DO NOT DO THIS WITH A GAS COOKER! Isopropyl alcohol is flammable, so you will probably burn your house down.

Q. Have you had any problems?
A. Not really, but now I seem to be able to smell colours. Not sure if that's a bad thing.


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Stephen

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Great reference for beginners! I purchased a purpose-built distiller to do this myself. The results are perfect … but good lord the smell of the distilling isopropyl is overwhelming.

Definitely recommend some distance from people and structures - if not for the fire risk then for the overpowering smell.
 
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Branchus

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Great reference for beginners! I purchased a purpose-built distiller to do this myself. The results are perfect … but good lord the smell of the distilling isopropyl is overwhelming.

Definitely recommend some distance from people and structures - if not for the fire risk then for the overpowering smell.
What sort of distiller are you using? Can you please post a link?
 
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Branchus

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I very nearly bought one like that but opted for a larger unit. I now regret my decision.
This is the specific distiller I bought but there are many like it.
 

Stephen

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I maintain my ISO with automatic 10 µm and 5 µm filtration, you can learn more about the system from the original author's YouTube video. I highly recommend this for anyone who prints regularly.
 

Branchus

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I maintain my ISO with automatic 10 µm and 5 µm filtration, you can learn more about the system from the original author's YouTube video. I highly recommend this for anyone who prints regularly.
I'll be sure to check that out. I've finished distilling all the alcohol I have here. It wasn't just alcohol I use for resin printing, it was also the alcohol I use for rinsing repaired logic boards. That alcohol has ended up with lots of water mixed in and the distillation allowed me to separate the alcohol from the water.

The main issue I had during the distillation was keeping the water in the bucket cold. I had to empty and refill with cold water about every 30 minutes to maintain the efficiency of the condensation.
 

phipli

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Sep 23, 2021
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Just to remind people, in many places around the world there are legal restrictions on distillation sadly. Just saying in case you order a still and the police come knocking. I realise this isn't vodka, but the legal restrictions might not overly care.

Additionally, as already mentioned, the fumes from distilling alcohol are pretty flammable. Like... blow the house up and kill you and your family because you switched on a lightswitch kind of flammable.

I have a track record of doing dangerous (fun) things, but I'd think twice about this. This thread should come with pretty damn serious warnings. Imagine the least practical person you know giving it a go!
 
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phipli

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Sep 23, 2021
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The main issue I had during the distillation was keeping the water in the bucket cold. I had to empty and refill with cold water about every 30 minutes to maintain the efficiency of the condensation.
Throw ice in every now and then. Leave a bit of headroom for the volume of ice you need.

Alternatively, run the one coil through a second larger diameter pipe and connect the outer pipe to a source of cold water like a tap (if you're unmetered you could theoretically just run the far end into a drain, although that is a little wasteful). With this, the tough bit is getting everything sealed, but it is do-able.

Lastly, you could repurpose a mini fridge or small liquid peltier cooler and circulate the bucket water through it to cool it.
 

JDW

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Just to remind people, in many places around the world there are legal restrictions on distillation...
Oh my. I don't even drink alcohol but that knowledge almost makes me want to give it a try! 😆
(I'm a Steve Jobsian "not fond of rules" rebel at heart.)
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...alcohol doesn't dissolve the resin, it just dilutes it and makes it less viscous to aid in washing it off.
Bruce, pardon my utter ignorance about resin printing and IPA, but if I have a floppy drive gear made of resin which is a bit dirty or may have oil/grease on it, I can dunk that in 100% IPA for a half hour without affecting the integrity of the gear, correct? (Maybe @Stephen would know?)
 

Stephen

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Oh my. I don't even drink alcohol but that knowledge almost makes me want to give it a try! 😆
(I'm a Steve Jobsian "not fond of rules" rebel at heart.)
View attachment 18594


Bruce, pardon my utter ignorance about resin printing and IPA, but if I have a floppy drive gear made of resin which is a bit dirty or may have oil/grease on it, I can dunk that in 100% IPA for a half hour without affecting the integrity of the gear, correct? (Maybe @Stephen would know?)
Once the “green” 3D printed resin is polymerized through UV curing it’s then reasonable robust. That being said, half an hour may be overkill.
 

JDW

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...half an hour may be overkill.
True, but I often put a variety of drive parts in 100% IPA and clean then with a toothbrush, one-by-one. And if a new, replacement part is dirty, I may throw it in too. Cleaning everything I dunk in IPA takes time, and by the time I get to some of the parts, they may have been soaking in the IPA a half hour, hence my mention of that specific amount of time in my previous post. I've had metal floppy drive parts soaking in IPA for an hour or more at times. Naturally, I'm unconcerned about those metal parts. I am basically just curious how durable "cured" resin parts really are, especially tiny floppy drive gears because they have extremely tiny "teeth" where the strength and integrity needs to be maintained.

By the way, a fellow in a group on FaceBook recently was asking about replacement gears, and I saw somebody reply back with a link to your BetterBit gears on EBAY. Yours have a very nice design, Stephen.