Compact Mac Caps List

Logic Boards:

Cap Values ->	1µf - 50V SMD	10µf - 16V SMD	47µf - 16V SMD	100µf - 6.3V SMD	220µf - 16V - Axial	470µf - 16V - Axial		Guides
Mouser ->	✓	✓	✓	✓	✓	✓
Digikey ->	?	?	?	?	?	?
SE/30	1		10		1	1	RecapAMac	MacCaps	Console5
Classic	1		7				RecapAMac	MacCaps	Console5
Classic II (RevA)	1	8	3				RecapAMac	MacCaps	Console5
Classic II (RevB)	2	12	3				RecapAMac	MacCaps	Console5
Color Classic		1	6	2			RecapAMac	MacCaps	Console5

Analog Boards:

Mouser

1000µf 10v

1000µf 16v

1000µf 35v

2200µf 10v

2200µf 35v

470µf 25v

100µf 25v - radials

22µf 50v

4700uf 25v

220uf 16v

10uF 160v

33uF 40v

3.9uF 450VDC (film)

Guides

Digikey

SE & SE/30

1

4

1

1

2

1

1

1

JDW

Mouser Cart (JDW)

Classic 1 (A)

Determine Rev A or B (F.2-6 Power/Sweep)

Classic 1 (B) & 2 (B)

1

1

1

2

1

2

MacCaps

Classic 1 & 2 (int)

RecapAMac

Color Classic

1

2

1

2

RecapAMac

MacCaps

 

[reallyrandy]

Are those cobwebs?

 

[caver01]

LOL! Hard to tell with all of that electrolyte/corrosion! Actually, I think there is a fair amount of pet hair in this photo. Needless to say, I acquired this system in a state of neglect, or at the very least, in need of action after a long period of deferred maintenance. I have new caps on order which is why I noticed the discrepancy in the voltage values. Other than this hair/dust and the electrolyte, it’s in decent condition.

 

[Elemenoh]

Nice work! It'd be nice to note the sizes for each cap, especially for analog boards. SMD size codes can be confusing to newcomers and some analog boards have some caps in odd sizes to provide enough clearance. For example IIRC there are a couple 330uF caps on the Color Classic AB and one of them is short and fat where the other is taller and skinnier.

@eric in lieu of sizing for every cap, it may be helpful to have a general note to say that most of the physically larger (ex. 47uF, 100uF) SMD caps can be replaced with tantalum/poly size C and the smaller ones (ex. 1uF, 10uF) are size B. You can get away with going up or down a size but I think those sizes are the sweet spot. There are a handful of exceptions for larger or smaller caps on things like LCD display PCBs and some PowerBook MLBs, but those two sizes cover the vast majority of SMD caps most people will run into on vintage Macs.

@Branchus I picked a random cap guide on your site (IIcx) and noticed you're linking to size D and C respectively. Is that really what you prefer or do you actually use C and B?

Edit: It looks like the Mouser links on this page are also pointing to the larger package sizes. If most people prefer D/C that's fine, but if most prefer the smaller sizes, those links should be updated at some point too.

 

[Branchus]

@Branchus I picked a random cap guide on your site (IIcx) and noticed you're linking to size D and C respectively. Is that really what you prefer or do you actually use C and B?

@Elemenoh I used to use sizes C and D, but have recently started using size B instead of C. Slightly easier to solder. I still use size D for the bigger ones though. I haven't updated the guides yet.

 

[-SE40-]

Just wondering….
Ive replaced 3 boards now with the standard condensors, and yes I know these will also start to leak in 25-30 years from now.
I might redo them in the future

For my next (630) board I wish to go for tantalums.

My trouble is that some positions are harder to solder/reach in. Specially if the other components get really close.

My question is if someone can shine a light on these non smd tantalums, with two wire legs.
Are these models also usable as a replacement?
Anyone who did use these on apple boards?

Thanks!

 

[-SE40-]

No reply to my question yet.
So I went with SMD model tantalums.
These have about the same length as the original caps.

Altough SMD gives a cleaner mount,
I think that if the „wired“ version can do the job, recapping may be easier for the less trained (like me…)
I feel working with SMD is a fiddly matter…..