I have some DaynaPORT E/LC-M cards, which is actually quite a good card for computers with an LC PDS slot. They have the DP83934 SONIC-T chipset, which is quite a good 10Mb ethernet chipset, and is compatible with the Apple Ethernet LC Card. However coax ethernet is a pain these days, and for versions of this card with only coax there is no alternative.
I had one card with 10base-T, and one with coax, and the differences are pretty straight forward. Here are pictures of the originals:
R18 and R19 are just controlling the AUI/TP input on the DP83934, either tying it to ground, or pulling it up. R13 is a 270Ω resistor for the D1 LED. C4 and C5 are 0.01µF per the DP83934 datasheet:
The FL1020 is like an FL1012 with the resistors built in.
On the coax version there is a 0Ω resistor at R6 that can be repurposed for R18, and R14 or R15 are 270Ω resistors that can be repurposed for R13. Other than the FL1020, the remaining components can be ordered from Mouser for about $3:
2x 0.01µF capacitors
1x Ethernet socket
1x LED
I managed to find a bunch of FL1020s for sale on eBay. Also picked up 3 more coax only DaynaPORT E/LC-M cards for quite reasonable prices to make this a worthwhile project.
To prepare for installation of the new components, I removed the bulky power converter, U2, the coax connector, J1, and capacitor C12. Removing the power converter also powers down all the coax circuitry so it can be ignored. Also a good time to remove R19 so that part of the board is finished after R18 is installed. I used a solder sucker to clear out the holes for T1, J2, and D1, then wick to remove solder from the pads for R13, R18, C4, and C5. Then I moved R5 to R18, and R14 to R13. Here is a picture I took between R18 and R13.
Then install C4 and C5 while there is convenient access before T1 and J2 are installed. Then D1, T1, and J2. This is a good time to test the board, before spending time removing the remaining unused coax components. For all 4 boards I did, I had no problems with the modification. This particular board needed some contact cleaner on the PDS socket J3 to get it working properly.
I used Chip Quik to remove U1 and T2, then removed the remaining small components, D3, R1-3, R7-12, R15, C2, C3. Then used solder wick to clean up the empty pads. For this particular board, which is somewhat tarnished, I also went over the FPU socket pads with wick. Here is the finished result:
All 4 boards I converted work great. I need to explore the possibility of getting new metal brackets created.
I had one card with 10base-T, and one with coax, and the differences are pretty straight forward. Here are pictures of the originals:
R18 and R19 are just controlling the AUI/TP input on the DP83934, either tying it to ground, or pulling it up. R13 is a 270Ω resistor for the D1 LED. C4 and C5 are 0.01µF per the DP83934 datasheet:
The FL1020 is like an FL1012 with the resistors built in.
On the coax version there is a 0Ω resistor at R6 that can be repurposed for R18, and R14 or R15 are 270Ω resistors that can be repurposed for R13. Other than the FL1020, the remaining components can be ordered from Mouser for about $3:
2x 0.01µF capacitors
1x Ethernet socket
1x LED
I managed to find a bunch of FL1020s for sale on eBay. Also picked up 3 more coax only DaynaPORT E/LC-M cards for quite reasonable prices to make this a worthwhile project.
To prepare for installation of the new components, I removed the bulky power converter, U2, the coax connector, J1, and capacitor C12. Removing the power converter also powers down all the coax circuitry so it can be ignored. Also a good time to remove R19 so that part of the board is finished after R18 is installed. I used a solder sucker to clear out the holes for T1, J2, and D1, then wick to remove solder from the pads for R13, R18, C4, and C5. Then I moved R5 to R18, and R14 to R13. Here is a picture I took between R18 and R13.
Then install C4 and C5 while there is convenient access before T1 and J2 are installed. Then D1, T1, and J2. This is a good time to test the board, before spending time removing the remaining unused coax components. For all 4 boards I did, I had no problems with the modification. This particular board needed some contact cleaner on the PDS socket J3 to get it working properly.
I used Chip Quik to remove U1 and T2, then removed the remaining small components, D3, R1-3, R7-12, R15, C2, C3. Then used solder wick to clean up the empty pads. For this particular board, which is somewhat tarnished, I also went over the FPU socket pads with wick. Here is the finished result:
All 4 boards I converted work great. I need to explore the possibility of getting new metal brackets created.
