Heat gun recs?

[iantm]

About to work on an SE/30 recap. I've seen that a heat gun and some shields are the way to go. Thankfully, heat guns don't appear to be as expensive as say, a Hakko soldering station.

I'm just starting out, so I don't need that. but I would like gud enuf for this job. So far my Digikey standing soldering station is just fine.

• What are some things you must have? (Temp control / nozzles to control airflow?)
• Any brands to avoid?
• Success stories?

This one on Amazon looks as good as any to me.

 

[Garrett]

If you're just starting out, and have never used a heat gun - I wouldn't (at least not yet). There's no need for one when recapping an SE/30. If you need to start pulling PLCCs off, then you could make the case for one. The SE/30 is old enough now that the old caps almost fall right off without much twisting. It's easier than you might think to cause damage/melt things with these heat guns... they're hot!

 

[iantm]

If you're just starting out, and have never used a heat gun - I wouldn't (at least not yet). There's no need for one when recapping an SE/30. If you need to start pulling PLCCs off, then you could make the case for one. The SE/30 is old enough now that the old caps almost fall right off without much twisting. It's easier than you might think to cause damage/melt things with these heat guns... they're hot!

I did see at least one example of just twist/push to get them off. And I definitely don't need to spend more $$ or risk burning the board.

Was also worried that twisting might cause more damage than the heat, but what you say makes sense. Thanks for the advice!

 

[JDW]

I call them "hot air stations." Despite having decades of soldering iron experience, I never owned one until a couple years ago. Now I use it a fair amount, but you must be very, VERY careful around plastics, and don't expect Kaptan tape to come to the rescue every time. Multiple layers of Aluminum Foil is often better.

With that sound, it works magic when soldering onto pads attached to massive ground plains. I set my hot air station to 350°C and hold it a few inches from the ground plain and try to heat the area so it won't char or cause damage or even melt solder, but just so it will be hot. Then I quickly put the heat gun down and grab my solder iron and soldering then becomes so easy. Lovely solder joints too!

If you are dexterous and experienced enough, you might even be able to have the heat gun in one hand and the soldering iron in the other to heat the area and lay down new solder. But again, I only find that necessary when soldering to ground planes or when soldering larger metal parts to a PCB.

All said, there are uses for it, and if you have soldering experience and if you have common sense about caring for plastics, a hot air station can come in handy.

I own this one...

https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-959D-Digital-Efficiency-212%C2%B0F-932%C2%B0F-Iron-burn/dp/B08BK3M6YW/

 

[YMK]

Hot air should be a last resort for removing caps (due to nearby plastics) and it's even worse for installing them.

Also, caps tend to blow up in your face when heated.

Hot air is useful for reflowing and removing ICs, like the video logic often trashed by C7 leakage.

My preferred method is dual irons and an IR preheater, which is less important for caps than ICs.

Without a preheater, you risk scorching the board with hot air.

 

[iantm]

All sound advice… I had my doubts I really needed it, in particular for this work after watching recapamac’s video.

I think I’ll be able to handle it more safely with just a soldering iron-been doing fine for soldering work (BlueSCSI kit) and although desoldering is a bit different I didn’t need anything but flux, a wick, and the iron to start the analog board recap (thanks for all the vids @JDW !)