Mac SE SuperDrive (M5011) garbage video/corrupted sad mac/gray screen with battery damage

thatcactusgirl

New Tinkerer
Nov 9, 2026
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Hi all! Sorry for the bit of a longer post, I'm a rambler 😅

Some backstory before getting into the problem: I got this Mac SE SuperDrive back in 2014 for $15. I tested it out by powering it on and it got to the "disk not found" icon, but since I didn't have any compatible mouse/keyboard and no floppies, and I was a broke teenager, I couldn't do anything with it. I did open it up and notice that it was pretty badly corroded, and was smart enough to take (what was left of) the battery out, but then I put it in my closet and moved on to the next hobby.

Fast forward about a dozen years to a little over a month ago, I get an itch to mess around with it. I remember it working, and I've forgotten about the corrosion by this point. I power it on.... and am met with either garbage video, a corrupted sad mac screen, a blank gray screen, or horizontal stripes, randomly when it's turned on. If left on, it'll randomly flip between these options every so often. No sound or chimes or anything from the speaker.

I'm not a broke teenager anymore (thank god) so I wanted to take it on as a challenge. Here's what I've done:
  • Neutralized/cleaned off as much of the corrosion from the logic board as I could.
    • I also cleaned off the loose rust from the chassis and power supply cage above the bomb blast. No other board or components seem affected.
  • Made sure there weren't any broken traces I could find.
    • Somehow despite the corrosion erasing most of a steel bracket from existence, the solder mask on my board withstood the torture. the goat honestly.
  • Replaced all the passives (except the inductors).
    • Probably jumped the gun with this one, but I figured I might as well since I had to replace a handful that had literally rusted away. It ended up being a really great way to get back into soldering and get myself really familiar with the board, so I don't regret it even if it wasn't all necessary.
  • Replaced the speaker's wires since those got corroded as well.
    • Speaker works when it's given voltage directly, but still no sound or chimes on startup.
  • Replaced a pin on each of the ROM chips since they were fragile from rust and fell off.
    • All the pins on the ROM chips have good connection to the logic board now.
  • ...I recreated a Bourns filter from scratch because one of mine was shot.
    • Pretty proud of this job actually, despite using 24ohm resistors since I didn't have 25ohm, it should be within tolerance? right?
    • I think I have another shot one (the one right above C11), but I don't want to take the time to replace it unless there's a chance it's the source of the problem.
I was hoping this stuff would magically fix the issue and I could get right to playing with it, but nope, same results as before. I found this forum and it looks like there are people with similar video symptoms (namely this one), so I did some poking around while it was running:
  • The reset pin is actually at +5V after a half-second or so after starting up, which is odd since it looks like a lot of the people with the same display garbage have a reset stuck at 0V.
  • The reset button also works to pull the reset pin low, but it doesn't seem to affect much on the display.
  • The clock pin is getting a frequency of 7.833 MHz, which seems to be right?
Here are my limitations:
  • I don't have an oscilloscope, just a multimeter.
  • I know how to read a schematic, but I don't know enough to deduce the logic of circuitry like this 😅 I also can't find the schematics for the SE FDHD logic board anyway, so if those are a thing we have, could someone link it for me? It'd help with finding points to test trace continuity.
  • I'd rather not buy another logic board for parts unless absolutely necessary, but I'd be willing to get a reloaded board and transfer all the stuff over if this ends up being an issue with traces in inner layers or something else unfixable.
So what else can I try? Is this a known issue? I can't find anyone with this exact problem, but I may just not be looking in the right places. Any help, tips, or comments are appreciated <3
 

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Kai Robinson

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Sep 2, 2021
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Not biased or anything, but honestly I'd get a reloaded board and transfer, at this point, you're likely dealing with too much corrosion between layers, bridged by the vias and manky traces. If you did patch it, it's only a matter of time before another one dies... And another... And another.

Best to start from a clean slate.
 

thatcactusgirl

New Tinkerer
Nov 9, 2026
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Fair enough, that’s something I’d sorta expected to have to do eventually but dreaded the idea of all the desoldering of the big ICs.
Is there some way I could confirm that it’s a board/trace issue beforehand? I’d hate to go through that whole process just to find that the problem was with one of the ROM chips or some other part I can’t get a new replacement for.
 

thatcactusgirl

New Tinkerer
Nov 9, 2026
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I guess the fact that it got these problems just by sitting in a climate controlled closet kinda confirms that it’s caused by something that’s just being eaten away slowly, but it still bothers me that I haven’t been able to find a broken trace myself. Do you have a link to the schematics so I can test continuity of some of the inner layers that I can’t follow by eye?
 

Kai Robinson

Co-Founder, Emeritus Board Member
Staff member
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Sep 2, 2021
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Luckily you only have to desolder the customs. And we've reverse engineered the GLU and ADB, the ROMs and the SWIM are socketed, the BBU is socketed. You'd just need the SND chip, really. And alxlab have the filters.

Everything else is an off the shelf part!
 

thatcactusgirl

New Tinkerer
Nov 9, 2026
4
0
1
True, but I'd really like to find the problematic component(s) before I make any more purchases for this machine :)
Two of the legs on the ROMs were corroded, so I'm not 100% confident they're working fully correctly. The SND chip also has a bit of leg damage but seems to be working alright from my basic assessment. I guess my best option without buying anything yet is to just keep trying to find broken traces till I find one..?
Also, you can buy new 68ks? They still make them??