If the gain is too high, you'll likely hear noise. If lowering the gain solves the problem (and sound is still audible) then you should be set.
Buttons are configurable, see here in the docs.
Macintosh Mini - (yet another) Maclock conversion project
- Thread starter wells
- Start date
Perfect! Thanks!
I was finally able to get in there with a multimeter and probe my button 1 and sure enough, it was non functional. Maybe the heat from desoldering or part of the pin was left behind. . . in any case this switch was DOA so I replaced it with a traditional tactile. After flattening out the curved leads of the new switch it sits nicely on your board. I scraped back some of the solder mask to give the switch leads more to grab onto, as my switch doesn’t have any strain relief—the pins themselves are designed to grab the holes you normally solder them into.
The tac switch worked so much better than the originals that I pulled the other one off too.
Today I am taking a tiny drill and files to the back of the case to add a USB port! I am aiming for the back right corner to replace one of the existing fakes. The rectangle there is perfect.
I was finally able to get in there with a multimeter and probe my button 1 and sure enough, it was non functional. Maybe the heat from desoldering or part of the pin was left behind. . . in any case this switch was DOA so I replaced it with a traditional tactile. After flattening out the curved leads of the new switch it sits nicely on your board. I scraped back some of the solder mask to give the switch leads more to grab onto, as my switch doesn’t have any strain relief—the pins themselves are designed to grab the holes you normally solder them into.
The tac switch worked so much better than the originals that I pulled the other one off too.
Today I am taking a tiny drill and files to the back of the case to add a USB port! I am aiming for the back right corner to replace one of the existing fakes. The rectangle there is perfect.
Two steps forward one step back: Having constructed a working Micro-to-USB-A adapter cord that I will mount in the back, I wanted to test it first. No mouse control. No keyboard control! In fact, if I SSH into the running system and check run 'lsusb' I only get the root hub device.
However, if I opt to ingore the little floppy switch power input and run power directly into one of the USB Micro ports, the other USB port works just fine, even into the emulator. Upshot: USB is not working properly when powered from the 5V input via the USB-C/Battery input. Now, that power works fine, and in fact I can run off battery alone (no USBC plugged in) which is great. My optical mouse even gets power to the red LED imager--but the OS doesn't recognize anything. What gives? Is the image configured to ignore USB ports at low voltage? I am at a loss.
Also, I can't get a double-press of button 2 to trigger an emu exit. Only the restart. My timing may be off--I see 500ms is the delay, but pretty sure I am hitting that and I only ever get restarts.
However, if I opt to ingore the little floppy switch power input and run power directly into one of the USB Micro ports, the other USB port works just fine, even into the emulator. Upshot: USB is not working properly when powered from the 5V input via the USB-C/Battery input. Now, that power works fine, and in fact I can run off battery alone (no USBC plugged in) which is great. My optical mouse even gets power to the red LED imager--but the OS doesn't recognize anything. What gives? Is the image configured to ignore USB ports at low voltage? I am at a loss.
Also, I can't get a double-press of button 2 to trigger an emu exit. Only the restart. My timing may be off--I see 500ms is the delay, but pretty sure I am hitting that and I only ever get restarts.