Macintosh SE with more and more problems

[Highsheep]

Hi, I signed up for this forum because of my Macintosh. When time pasts, there're three problems appeared, worse and worse. The first problem is shown on the first image. there're only mouse on the screen, and the inside card disk light is always on, also the BlueSCSI. And I tried to make a system in BlueSCSI. It did work, but for few more minutes, it started to crush. Debugger opened automatically, and can't be closed. While I was searching for how to use it, a white rectangle appeared on the center of the screen, and can't do nothing. When I restart, there became the second problem. You can see it on image 2: there're no mouse, and the machine RESET(just like pushing reset bottom) automatically, and the "beep" sound also appear when it reset over time. I tried to use multimeter to determine the voltage for the external floppy drive. The voltage with +5V is 4.985V, and for +12v, one is 12.256V, one is 12.254V. Unfortunately, I have no more time to determine. I notice that the third problem came(also can be sen=en on image 3). Unhappy face appear, and soon whit pixels appeared from left to right, and the speaker make crack sound. (the picture is taken just when the situation began). What should I do next???

I will @ JDW and Eric because I asked them for help, and they accepted me to do this. Sorry for my bad English, my first language isn't English...
@JDW
@eric

 

[Highsheep]

Oh, I also tried to cut down all the connection: floppy disk drive, hard disk, even keyboard and mouse

 

[jibsaramnim]

Hello! Welcome to the forums

Could you share a bit more about what has been done to your SE? You mentioned BlueSCSI, has its internal hard drive been replaced by a BlueSCSI? Have it's logic board and/or analog board been recapped? Has any other work been done to the SE?

 

[Highsheep]

Hello! Welcome to the forums

Could you share a bit more about what has been done to your SE? You mentioned BlueSCSI, has its internal hard drive been replaced by a BlueSCSI? Have it's logic board and/or analog board been recapped? Has any other work been done to the SE?

Hi, the internal hard drive doesn't been replaced, I just put the BlueSCSI for an external hard drive

 

[Highsheep]

This is my motherboard, and I only replaced one gear in the floppy drive's eject motor.

 

[jibsaramnim]

Hi, the internal hard drive doesn't been replaced, I just put the BlueSCSI for an external hard drive

Does the internal drive still work? If not, you might want to fully disconnect it (power and data both), as having it connected could lead to unexpected behavior. For example, if the computer sometimes notices this drive and tries to bit from it and then fail to do so, it could explain the third issue you mentioned.

This is my motherboard, and I only replaced one gear in the floppy drive's eject motor.

If I understand right it means your logic board, analog board,and power supply are all still "original" with no work done to them, right? If so, it might be time to grab your soldering iron, it's very likely the capacitors have started to fail and have to be replaced.

 

[JDW]

@Highsheep
Based on what you wrote on the 68kMLA here and in this thread too, it seems your problems began after you starting using BlueSCSI, so I will let @eric share his speculations about that.

@jibsaramnim asked you about capacitor replacement, which is exactly what I told you by PM too, so please comment about that.

Lastly, your motherboard photo is low resolution, so I cannot see any possibly damage, but your metal bar looks pristine. I don't see rust. That's good! Your VARTA PRAM battery probably never leaked. But it surely is dead by now. So what you need to do is take wire cutters (nippers) and cut the leg on either side of that battery to remove it. Obviously, do that with the motherboard REMOVED and not powered. After that, put it back together and test. Probably will still show the same problems, but I want to hear how it reacts without that ancient PRAM battery connected.

Lastly, I know you said the voltages seem to be good, but a multimeter is slow to update. So if the power supply is failing because the capacitors have never been replaced, then it could be that the voltages are dropping for a brief time and then rising back to normal voltage levels. Infrequent and short voltage drops may not appear on a multimeter like yours. Such issues are easy to see on an oscilloscope, but you probably don't have one of those.

If you have never replaced the capacitors, and you know the previous owner never replaced any capacitors, start by powering off, then remove the power supply (metal box attached to Analog Board). Open that metal box and examine the circuit board top and bottom. If the capacitors have leaked, you will know right away. And you should post photos of that. In such a case, you have two options:

1. Remove all the electrolytic capacitors, clean the board with 100% IPA or an ultrasonic cleaner, then solder in fresh, new capacitors.

or

2. Buy a modern replacement power supply.

If you want to do (2) above, you are in luck. In July this year, a brilliant gentleman released a brand new power supply that works in the SE and SE/30. It will fit any of the metal power supply boxes. You can see his product on EBAY. Llnks below:

EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/itm/266898469654

Documentation (by @JdM74 ): https://tinyurl.com/n6p3zhxc

Install Video:

Mentioned in my recent video here:

 

[Highsheep]

Does the internal drive still work? If not, you might want to fully disconnect it (power and data both), as having it connected could lead to unexpected behavior. For example, if the computer sometimes notices this drive and tries to bit from it and then fail to do so, it could explain the third issue you mentioned.


If I understand right it means your logic board, analog board,and power supply are all still "original" with no work done to them, right? If so, it might be time to grab your soldering iron, it's very likely the capacitors have started to fail and have to be replaced.

For me, I didn't replace any. But for last buyer, I don't know. However, for the condition when I first open it, I believe nothing had been changed. I'll try replacing them.

 

[Highsheep]

@Highsheep
Based on what you wrote on the 68kMLA here and in this thread too, it seems your problems began after you starting using BlueSCSI, so I will let @eric share his speculations about that.

@jibsaramnim asked you about capacitor replacement, which is exactly what I told you by PM too, so please comment about that.

Lastly, your motherboard photo is low resolution, so I cannot see any possibly damage, but your metal bar looks pristine. I don't see rust. That's good! Your VARTA PRAM battery probably never leaked. But it surely is dead by now. So what you need to do is take wire cutters (nippers) and cut the leg on either side of that battery to remove it. Obviously, do that with the motherboard REMOVED and not powered. After that, put it back together and test. Probably will still show the same problems, but I want to hear how it reacts without that ancient PRAM battery connected.

Lastly, I know you said the voltages seem to be good, but a multimeter is slow to update. So if the power supply is failing because the capacitors have never been replaced, then it could be that the voltages are dropping for a brief time and then rising back to normal voltage levels. Infrequent and short voltage drops may not appear on a multimeter like yours. Such issues are easy to see on an oscilloscope, but you probably don't have one of those.

If you have never replaced the capacitors, and you know the previous owner never replaced any capacitors, start by powering off, then remove the power supply (metal box attached to Analog Board). Open that metal box and examine the circuit board top and bottom. If the capacitors have leaked, you will know right away. And you should post photos of that. In such a case, you have two options:

1. Remove all the electrolytic capacitors, clean the board with 100% IPA or an ultrasonic cleaner, then solder in fresh, new capacitors.

or

2. Buy a modern replacement power supply.

If you want to do (2) above, you are in luck. In July this year, a brilliant gentleman released a brand new power supply that works in the SE and SE/30. It will fit any of the metal power supply boxes. You can see his product on EBAY. Llnks below:

EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/itm/266898469654

Documentation (by @JdM74 ): https://tinyurl.com/n6p3zhxc

Install Video:

Mentioned in my recent video here:

Wow, thanks, I'll follow your advice. I'll first replace the battery and have a look. Then I'll have a look at the power supply. If there're anything wrong, I'll say and take photos. Thanks I think I can remove the speaker and test.

 

[Highsheep]

HI, I remove pram, but it's still. I determine C36,it's 1.7V, C34 is 0.6V, while two of others are 5V, are there anything wrong.

 

[Highsheep]

Also, the power supply goes well. All CAPs are going well.

 

[Highsheep]

Are C36 and C34 working well??

 

[eric]

If you suspect something with the BlueSCSI always try _every_ step in the Troubleshooting guide first to rule anything out. https://bluescsi.com/docs/Troubleshooting#what-to-try-first

 

[Highsheep]

@Highsheep
Based on what you wrote on the 68kMLA here and in this thread too, it seems your problems began after you starting using BlueSCSI, so I will let @eric share his speculations about that.

@jibsaramnim asked you about capacitor replacement, which is exactly what I told you by PM too, so please comment about that.

Lastly, your motherboard photo is low resolution, so I cannot see any possibly damage, but your metal bar looks pristine. I don't see rust. That's good! Your VARTA PRAM battery probably never leaked. But it surely is dead by now. So what you need to do is take wire cutters (nippers) and cut the leg on either side of that battery to remove it. Obviously, do that with the motherboard REMOVED and not powered. After that, put it back together and test. Probably will still show the same problems, but I want to hear how it reacts without that ancient PRAM battery connected.

Lastly, I know you said the voltages seem to be good, but a multimeter is slow to update. So if the power supply is failing because the capacitors have never been replaced, then it could be that the voltages are dropping for a brief time and then rising back to normal voltage levels. Infrequent and short voltage drops may not appear on a multimeter like yours. Such issues are easy to see on an oscilloscope, but you probably don't have one of those.

If you have never replaced the capacitors, and you know the previous owner never replaced any capacitors, start by powering off, then remove the power supply (metal box attached to Analog Board). Open that metal box and examine the circuit board top and bottom. If the capacitors have leaked, you will know right away. And you should post photos of that. In such a case, you have two options:

1. Remove all the electrolytic capacitors, clean the board with 100% IPA or an ultrasonic cleaner, then solder in fresh, new capacitors.

or

2. Buy a modern replacement power supply.

If you want to do (2) above, you are in luck. In July this year, a brilliant gentleman released a brand new power supply that works in the SE and SE/30. It well fit any of the metal power supply boxes. You can see his product on EBAY. Llnks below:

EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/itm/266898469654

Documentation (by @JdM74 ): https://tinyurl.com/n6p3zhxc

Install Video:

isMentioned in my recent video here:

Hi, this is the power supply. It looks well

 

[Highsheep]

Things, sounds different. After I replace the power supply, check it carefully, and clean the logic board, the floppy disk face with question mark appears again. I restart for a lot, and am sure that nothing will change. However, all the method I tried can't work. Floppy disk, internal hard disk, external hard disk. I even changed more than 3 systems. but with floppy disk, the mark on the floppy disk always appear. Even if I replace all the other drive. With hard disk, it also can't be read. What should I do???