Modern power supply for se/se30?

iantm

Tinkerer
Sep 8, 2025
62
28
18
Michigan
Does anyone have experience replacing the stock power supply (Sony/astec) with a modern build? I am in the process of recapping a PS but it’s a step up from even the logic board in terms of of difficulty. If I botch it I might either send it off the Amiga of Rochester or try one of these units.

 

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jonschwenn

New Tinkerer
Mar 4, 2025
9
6
3
I have one of those units in a working SE/30, and I plan on buying a similar one for an empty shell of a power supply for another build. Pricey, but works and keeps the original aesthetic.
 

ArjenCNX

Tinkerer
Oct 20, 2025
42
34
18
it is a good alternative when capacitor leakage has wrecked the original PCB.

some things to consider:

- bathe the PCB in some citric acid (you can buy this in powder form and add to water) the alkaline cap juices will bubble and once that has stopped, you can remove it and rinse, don't leave it in for more then 15 minutes, and you only need to submerse the PCB itself, the rest is not as important. this ensures the PCB doesnt further degrade, do make sure though that you neutralize the acid afterwards so none stays behind.
- make sure to replace all caps with high quality replacements
if you post pictures or need help, just let me know.

Arjen
 
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muse

New Tinkerer
Nov 3, 2025
17
10
3
Don't know if I'd ever want to use one of those replacements.

They seem quite noisy.
80mVp-p for the 60-5 module 120mVp-p for the 60-12.

Would be interesting to know what the Apple specification is for ripple for the original power supply.
 

muse

New Tinkerer
Nov 3, 2025
17
10
3
That's interesting, thanks for sharing.

Those things are designed for modern applications that can tolerate some ripple but generally don't play nice in our vintage machines.
 

iantm

Tinkerer
Sep 8, 2025
62
28
18
Michigan
it is a good alternative when capacitor leakage has wrecked the original PCB.

some things to consider:

- bathe the PCB in some citric acid (you can buy this in powder form and add to water) the alkaline cap juices will bubble and once that has stopped, you can remove it and rinse, don't leave it in for more then 15 minutes, and you only need to submerse the PCB itself, the rest is not as important. this ensures the PCB doesnt further degrade, do make sure though that you neutralize the acid afterwards so none stays behind.
- make sure to replace all caps with high quality replacements
if you post pictures or need help, just let me know.

Arjen
it is a good alternative when capacitor leakage has wrecked the original PCB.

some things to consider:

- bathe the PCB in some citric acid (you can buy this in powder form and add to water) the alkaline cap juices will bubble and once that has stopped, you can remove it and rinse, don't leave it in for more then 15 minutes, and you only need to submerse the PCB itself, the rest is not as important. this ensures the PCB doesnt further degrade, do make sure though that you neutralize the acid afterwards so none stays behind.
- make sure to replace all caps with high quality replacements
if you post pictures or need help, just let me know.

Arjen
I’ll get more photos later. I don’t know what to do with the big cap. The perpendicular leads don’t exist on the new cap I have.

Re: Citrix acid. I didn’t know that was safe for the PSU? I’ve read it’s ok for the logic board but not thought it was not for the analog/psu.
 

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