PowerBook 100 screen recap

Oct 15, 2021
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I was reading this great article about recapping a PowerBook 100, and was curious if anyone else here had performed a similar repair... and what was the physical size of the tant caps you ended up using on the LCD?

Thank you!

 

Fizzbinn

Tinkerer
Nov 29, 2021
189
183
43
Charlottesville, VA
When I recapped my PowerBook 100 I used these for the LCD:

3.3µF - 35V - SMT - Size B - 581-TAJB335K035SNJ (Mouser P/N)

5B5CD231-2124-49A5-BB35-3AD53618F9EF.jpeg


38E1B519-BA2E-4437-B3A2-DF249AEDCC04.jpeg


8DB70B2B-D9C4-4D75-AA59-B15146AC3EF7.jpeg
 

Daniel Hansen

Tinkerer
Oct 29, 2021
175
130
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Yeah this approach is just SO much smarter than trying to use radial electrolytics... which is what I did and it was silly. It works of course and looks more 'original' (as if that matters), but it felt like I was twisting myself into knots.
 
Last edited:
Oct 15, 2021
167
213
43
Glass half full: The florescent backlight is working!

Has the logic board been recapped? Getting a startup chime? HD
activity noises?

I guess you’ve double checked at the connections and played with brightness and contrast?

Startup chime, yes!
HD activity sounds, yes!
Cleaned the pots for B&C. yes!
 

Daniel Hansen

Tinkerer
Oct 29, 2021
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A few things spring to mind:
- verify the display cable is good / properly connected
- possible there's an issue on the inverter board... there are two electrolytic caps on it that could be out of spec causing issues with brightness or contrast
- there's a chance that one of the inductors part of the boost converter has been affected by cap leakage, and is not supplying the required supply to the display... one or both of the 150uH's, located here:

Screen Shot 2022-02-04 at 4.04.25 PM.png
 

GiGaBiTe

Tinkerer
Feb 6, 2022
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29
18
I second checking that area on the PB100. I had the exact same problem with no display and the problem didn't reveal itself until I flipped the board over and L3 fell off the board, it was hanging on by a thin wisp of a corroded leg.

All three inductors should be removed and closely inspected on the bottom, they tend to wick up the leaked electrolyte from the nearby caps, which corrodes the copper coil connections to the legs and sometimes corrodes the copper coils clean out of the body.

Also make sure you clean that area VERY thoroughly. the stupid leaked electrolyte can cause current paths between the nearby chips and cause erratic behavior. I had to wash the one I worked on 5 or 6 times to get it all off.
 
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caliban10

New Tinkerer
Oct 28, 2021
23
13
3
Cambridge UK
I'm doing this exact repair & my L3 broke a leg as well while I was desoldering it. Appears to be pretty common.

What should I replace it with? I'm shopping for 150uH's but what Maximum DC Current do I need? Mouser has up to 50 A.
 

GiGaBiTe

Tinkerer
Feb 6, 2022
33
29
18
I'm doing this exact repair & my L3 broke a leg as well while I was desoldering it. Appears to be pretty common.

What should I replace it with? I'm shopping for 150uH's but what Maximum DC Current do I need? Mouser has up to 50 A.

This is what I used to replace mine. Unfortunately though, it is out of stock until October.

I found a substitute that is the same dimensions with a slightly higher 720 mAh rating that will probably work:
 
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