Powerbook Kanga with a couple of odd display issues

point5

New Tinkerer
Jan 28, 2024
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On the bench today is a powerbook G3 kanga motherboard, with some odd display problems. First let me state that the display I am using to test with is from a working powerbook 3400c and works just fine when connected to the 3400. When the kanga is booted up, I can always get good video from the VGA port and no video from the internal display. I have the resolution set to 800 x 600 Simulscan. After about 5 minutes, the internal display begins to come to life. I can see it trying to display with what looks like scrambled lines or heavy interference for 10 to 15 seconds and finally I get the mirrored image of what is being sent out the VGA port. From then on, all is rock solid, no amount of poking at the board or flexing it will disturb the image on the internal display. Also rocking the display connector on the motherboard has not ill effects. That connector seems solid as well. Now if I put the unit to sleep and wake it back up, the longer it sleeps, the longer it takes for the internal display to come back again. And again it goes through a few seconds of noise before it is good. The external display comes back immediately. This leads me to believe that it may have something to do with some component or chip near the video chip or the video ship itself. Once that video chip heats up, things begin to work better/ Give things a chance to cool off and the internal display stops working until things warm up again. Either that or perhaps I have a capacitor that is flaky and takes a looong time to get to a charged state. Given the kanga only has one electrolytic and I don't think it is involved with the video circuitry, that seems rather unlikely.

The second issue with the internal display is that the back light never comes on. Again the display unit is fine when connected to the 3400 it came from so no problem there. I am however unfamiliar with the specifics of that display connector and what pins drive the backlight. I have done some searching for similar issues, and tried to find schematics for either the kanga or the 3400 without much luck. The service manual is not much help in this case.

I will also state that it does appear that this board was a victim of a pram battery leak as I have spent time cleaning some light corrosion in the area around the display connector. I have not spotted any bad traces, but will say some of the vias are not pretty, but do seem to conduct. I have done a lot of reflow work on the chips in this area as well as the 2 rom chips located on the bottom toward the front of the board. The first issue with the board was intermittent startup, once those 2 roms were reflowed the startup issues went away. They were barely making contact and I could move some of the pins when poking at them. I ended up reflowing most of the chips on the topside near the topside roms and the power board before spotting the bad joints on the two bottom roms. All this to say, there is always the possibility of a weak connection in the video circuitry that corrects itself eventually, due to expansion from heating up.

If anybody has experience with repairing either a kanga or a 3400 and has suggestions of things to check next, I would appreciate any help. I would love to tackle the backlight issue as that would make working on the other issue that much easier.

Ill try to get some imagery for the board up here as well.
 

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point5

New Tinkerer
Jan 28, 2024
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A quick update. After more cleanup and some more reflowing, I finally have the display working dependably, except for the backlight. To be clear, the display works fine on a 3400, but no backlight when connected to this kanga logic board. I am hoping someone here has some info on the internal display connecor of either the 3400 or the kanga. Since they both use the same connector and the internals for their displays are the same, the pinout should be the same for both. If I knew what pins on the connector are involved with driving the backlight, I might be able to do a better comparison between the two machines. Thanks for any info anyone can provide.
 
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point5

New Tinkerer
Jan 28, 2024
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For anyone following along, I have gotten a backlight on the 3400 display from kanga board -of a sort. It turns out that there are in fact slight differences in the display connector on the kanga logic board and the 3400. Specifically, on the kanga, pin 18 outputs 2.5 volts and pin 32 measures zero volts, while on a 3400 pin 18 measures zero volts and pin 32 outputs 2.5 volts. From what I can determine - without any schematics - all the positive voltage rails are on the positive pins (the side of the connector towards the front) and all of the video and sound data are on the negative pins. Now when I say of a sort, Pin 34, and 36 also output 2.5 volts so I am currently supplying pin 32, 2.5 volts from pin 34. This works, but during times of heavy disk access the display cuts out, and returns once disk activity has ceased. Also the brightness controls above the keyboard have no effect. My next attempt will be to put a bodge wire from pin 18 to pin 32 and see if that improves things.
 

point5

New Tinkerer
Jan 28, 2024
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Well that was a bad idea. No harm done, but I got some squealing sounds from the speakers when I shutdown. Undoing the bodge from pin 32 to 34, and replacing it with a bodge from pin 18 to 32 seems to be the right way to do it. No squealing and no more issues with the backlight dropping out during disk access, and it's strong and steady. I am still baffled about the brightness controls though. I have tried measuring voltages and watching the scope on every pin while pressing the up and down buttons and did not see anything that I could say 100% that it's doing something. The closest I got to a maybe was pin 13. I have not yet pulled my 3400 apart to do a comparison. If I get any further, I'll update this thread with any findings.
 

point5

New Tinkerer
Jan 28, 2024
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So the squealing sound has returned. Looks like if I want to use the 3400 display, the bodge is not enough. I will need to cut the trace on pin 34. And possibly pin 32 as well. I will have to experiment further. Of course the best solution would be to get a kanga display or at the very least the inverter board and ribbon cable. These would match the pinout from the kanga logic board. But those don't come up for sale very often. I really thought the two units being so similar would be more compatible.
 

point5

New Tinkerer
Jan 28, 2024
17
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Another Update...
Finally got my hands on a genuine Kanga display (and parts for the rest of a Kanga - some working some not) and guess what, the display unit is electrically identical to the 3400 display. So shame on me for making that assumption about a wiring difference. Turns out the reason that I have no voltage to pin 32 is a bad switching diode. See the image. There are 2 diodes positioned in front of the display connector. They face opposite directions and both cathodes are connected to the 5v rail. The anode side of each diode provides a voltage drop to roughly 3v. And guess what is connected to them... one goes to pin 32 and the other to pin 18 (among other things). I replaced the diode connected to pin 32 and suddenly there is backlighting. I still have not determined why the brightness buttons on the small speaker panel above the keyboard don't do anything. And now that I can see a desktop, I have run into a new problem. The CD drive will not mount a CD. I have several 3400 CD drives and they all work in a 3400. But in the Kanga the drives do not seem to have enough power to keep a steady spin. I have a zip module for the 3400 that works fine in the Kanga. So strange. I guess the CD drives need more power.

Also looks like I'm going to end up with a boat load of parts. At this point I can put together a complete Kanga that won't boot. LOL.
 

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