SE/30 Reloaded - Lets build it!

[eric]

I recently went in on a group order with @rdmark of @Bolle's SE/30 Reloaded board, in purple. Here's the donor board along with the new.

As you can see the bombed area is pretty bombed... but it seems like the important chips survived. Here's my first look over for replacements I need and a ROM socket.

I'll also be getting some matching purple SMC RAM. Might as well print a purple BlueSCSI as well to match.

I'll be posting status updates and progress pics as I proceed.

 

[eric]

Between Mouser and DigiKey in the US I found most of the parts I need, but not all:

ROM SIMM holder - I can try to recondition this one, or take the ROM's off the old one (has some corrosion, may be fixable) or take the ROMs off the new GGLabs one I have.

Resistor packs (22/1k/200ohms) - I cant seem to find these anywhere, but the data sheet these look very trivial, might whip something up quick in kicad.

FPU
1) can it boot without the FPU installed?
2) ebay has a lot of them - but what do I need to watch out for?

 

[eric]

Quick mock up - seems like it'd work fine since I cant find those specific packages for these resistors:

 

[bakkus]

We discussed those resistor packs briefly on the Discord the other day.
The issue is that they have been replaced by RoHS-compliant equivalents.

https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/4816P-T01-220LF/1089291 as an example. The footprint is supposedly the same.
Bolle was also thinking out loud to just redesign those parts around SMD resistors.

 

[Kay K.M.Mods]

@eric In my experience, the first thing you have to do is solder the MC68882. The pads are about the same size as the 68882 legs and will be difficult to solder.
Next, UH7, UD12 and UF12, Their pads are also smaller.

Other soldering tasks are relatively easy. Good luck!

 

[JDW]

@eric In my experience, the first thing you have to do is solder the MC68882. The pads are about the same size as the 68882 legs and will be difficult to solder.

I absolutely HATE soldering PLCCs or other chips where the pins curl under the body AND when the PCB pads don't extend out from under the legs much at all. It took me well over 1 hour to solder a tiny PLCC chip used on one of the small PCBs that Kai R. sent to me for the SE Reloaded project because there wasn't enough pad on the PCB to melt the solder. So what I ended up doing was melt solder on the pads first (which is something you normally DON'T want to do), then I put a lot of flux on, and used a hot air station to try to get the chip to fall down onto the pads. Well, the chip didn't fall down as I hoped, but I did get it soldered by hand using a soldering iron, pin by pin. The chip sits up a little too high on mountains of solder, but it worked. And again, I hated every movement of it! If only the pads would have been designed to extend beyond the legs by about 2-3 mm, then it would have been easy to solder!

So how did you solder it, Kay? Honestly, I really want to know the technique, because until I learn a better way, I never want to see another PLCC chip again! Ack!

 

[Kay K.M.Mods]

I absolutely HATE soldering PLCCs or other chips where the pins curl under the body AND when the PCB pads don't extend out from under the legs much at all. It took me well over 1 hour to solder a tiny PLCC chip used on one of the small PCBs that Kai R. sent to me for the SE Reloaded project because there wasn't enough pad on the PCB to melt the solder. So what I ended up doing was melt solder on the pads first (which is something you normally DON'T want to do), then I put a lot of flux on, and used a hot air station to try to get the chip to fall down onto the pads. Well, the chip didn't fall down as I hoped, but I did get it soldered by hand using a soldering iron, pin by pin. The chip sits up a little too high on mountains of solder, but it worked. And again, I hated every movement of it! If only the pads would have been designed to extend beyond the legs by about 2-3 mm, then it would have been easy to solder!

So how did you solder it, Kay? Honestly, I really want to know the technique, because until I learn a better way, I never want to see another PLCC chip again! Ack!

There is no magic like you think, no special technique is required
The important points are that the temperature of the soldering iron is stable and that it has a knife edge to heat both the pad and the foot. It takes about 5 minutes to install 3 ICs.

I recommend you a Hakko FX-951 and Solder iron tip T12-K. *All K part number series are knife edge.

 

[JDW]

Basically, you are telling me that the "special technique" is MONEY.
US$285 (Amazon USA) or JP¥29,500 (Amazon Japan) to buy the Hakko FX-951 Solder Station and a T12-K blade tip.
Hmmm...

@Kay K.M.Mods , do you buy the official Hakko T12-K from Hakko Japan eShop, or do you buy the cheap no-brand T12-K on Amazon Japan?

• Official (Hakko Japan Store): https://ec.hakko.com/products/detail/4489
• No Brand (Amazon): https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Soldering-Station-Welding-Equipment-Accessories/dp/B07JDJ68DN/

 

[Kay K.M.Mods]

Basically, you are telling me that the "special technique" is MONEY.
US$285 (Amazon USA) or JP¥29,500 (Amazon Japan) to buy the Hakko FX-951 Solder Station and a T12-K blade tip.
Hmmm...

@Kay K.M.Mods , do you buy the official Hakko T12-K from Hakko Japan eShop, or do you buy the cheap no-brand T12-K on Amazon Japan?

• Official (Hakko Japan Store): https://ec.hakko.com/products/detail/4489
• No Brand (Amazon): https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Soldering-Station-Welding-Equipment-Accessories/dp/B07JDJ68DN/

This is @eric 's post, so plz PM any questions, we dragged the topic little too far...lol
I think he is good at PLCC soldering, so I don't think he needs information on soldering irons or advice on soldering. I think he will do well !