Soldering temperature

Drake

TinkerDifferent Board Vice-President 2023
Staff member
Sep 23, 2021
447
782
93
Savages!
sketch1636564095216~2.png
sketch1636564370457~2.png
 
Last edited:

Daniel Hansen

Tinkerer
Oct 29, 2021
177
133
43
On topic: I desolder through-holes at 350-360, with added flux and fresh solder, and usually pre-heat the area with hot air at ~150. I'm considering buying an old toaster / counter-top oven for pre-heating to get at those ground planes (don't really have a need for a proper pre-heater, just a hobbyist hack after all). Also, I sometimes use a bit of chipquick to help with stubborn old solder at those ground planes.

New components go in at 350 with 60/40, preheating at the ground planes.

Off topic: proud push-n-twister! ✊
 

craig

Tinkerer
Oct 17, 2021
14
37
13
Dalry, Scotland
www.meerkats.uk.com
My FX-888D is set to 370C almost all of the time except for ground plane work where I run it at 420C. I've only recently bought a hot air station so will try to use hot air to assist by preheating the ground planes in future. I like the thin conical tips for fine work but use a bevel or chisel tip for larger stuff. I'm currently using RS Pro 60/40 0.71mm solder wire but I have a variety of others which I should start using because the 0.71mm stuff is a bit thick for what I'm doing just now.

I don't often drag solder as I was taught the one pin at a time technique during a MIL-STD-2000 training course about 20 years ago and have stuck with that ever since. Nothing wrong with drag soldering which is almost certainly quicker when things go well and there aren't too many bridges to rework.

If I remember correctly from the MIL-STD-2000 course, the reason they advocate a single pin approach for SMD soldering of ICs is to ensure the correct quantity of solder is applied. Too little solder is an obvious issue but too much is a more subtle problem and can make the pin too rigid. The pins are designed to flex with thermal expansion and vibration, and if the solder goes too far up the leg then it concentrates that thermal stress on a smaller area of the pin which can cause early fracture. Of course this is more of an issue in harsh environments (eg. military & space) where extended thermal ranges and vibration are more likely. Anyway, what I always try to do is create a nice fillet of solder around the "foot" of the pin which contacts the pad but avoid the solder spilling over the top of the foot and especially avoiding it moving up the "ankle". YMMV :)

One thing to note is that erosion of soldering tips is much higher once you get up towards and beyond 400C, especially if you don't keep the tips tinned when sitting dormant.

Re the push and twist cap removal technique, I've only used it on one SE/30 board so far but it worked a treat. 👌
 
  • Like
Reactions: Daniel Hansen

TPOPE

New Tinkerer
Nov 28, 2021
4
0
1
If you need a soldering "iron" hotter than 350°C, then something is probably wrong. It's too easy to overheat sensitive components when you go to 400°C with an iron (especially solid Tantalum capacitors). Some people do it and have no issues, but 350°C is a good rule of thumb to stick to.

I realize ground planes act as heatsinks, but that is why preheating a board with either heat gun or a hot air station often helps. I myself only recently acquired a hot air station thanks to a kind recommendation from @Kai Robinson. I believe @Branchus at one point told me he goes to 400°C and beyond with his hot air station, and I believe it too because I am not very good at desoldering components, even with small tips, on my hot air station when set to only 350°C. But even if you use a hot air station at 350°C, you still have to be very, very careful not to melt plastics. That's why I still am mostly using irons. I don't have many accidental meltings with soldering irons..
Hi.
It took a while to get through the registration process, but I did it. Do you know of anyone in the NYC metro area how might be able to assist me? Thanks.
TPOPE
 

JDW

Administrator
Staff member
Founder
Sep 2, 2021
1,577
1,373
113
53
Japan
youtube.com
Hi.
It took a while to get through the registration process, but I did it. Do you know of anyone in the NYC metro area how might be able to assist me? Thanks.
TPOPE
@Mac84 is based in New Jersey. Not sure if he has time or desire, but he's quite skilled at testing and repair.
 

Mac84

Administrator
Staff member
Founder
Sep 4, 2021
192
270
63
New Jersey, USA
www.mac84.net
Hi.
It took a while to get through the registration process, but I did it. Do you know of anyone in the NYC metro area how might be able to assist me? Thanks.
TPOPE
Hello, I'm located in New Jersey. What do you need assistance with? Feel free to message me directly if you have any questions, etc.
 

TPOPE

New Tinkerer
Nov 28, 2021
4
0
1
Hello, I'm located in New Jersey. What do you need assistance with? Feel free to message me directly if you have any questions, etc.
Hello. I transplanted a Seasonic 300 into a SE30 PSU and wanted a professional check out before.power up. I have a need for so much power (fans, lights, and future appliances) and don't want any circuits clipped. Of course. If I have made a mistake I would appreciate a correction. Also I don't have the tools you do so if my work seems rough to you feel free to make any safety I.provements. Peace.

TPOPE
 

JDW

Administrator
Staff member
Founder
Sep 2, 2021
1,577
1,373
113
53
Japan
youtube.com
I transplanted a Seasonic 300 into a SE30 PSU and wanted a professional check out before.power up.
If you have a volt meter, you should check the voltages at the white (semi-transparent) 10-pin connector you attached to it, as shown in the photo below. Because if the voltages you measure there are all correct, and if the Grounds are all correct, then you really don't have anything to worry about when you attach it to the Mac.

1638853945151.png


1638854118764.png
 

TPOPE

New Tinkerer
Nov 28, 2021
4
0
1
If you have a volt meter, you should check the voltages at the white (semi-transparent) 10-pin connector you attached to it, as shown in the photo below. Because if the voltages you measure there are all correct, and if the Grounds are all correct, then you really don't have anything to worry about when you attach it to the Mac.

View attachment 1738

View attachment 1739
Ok, Thanks.
 

reallyrandy

Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2021
182
81
28
New Jersey
I'm testing my hot air station on an old Panasonic DVD player board before unleashing it on my SE/30. I tried the push/twist method and pulled up a few pads before I gave up. I set the hot air at 370 c and removed several surface mount caps. I had never done surface mounts before, that's why I tested on an old DVD player. I lost a few pads before I discovered that if I held the cap with tweezers and pulled up slightly until the board was almost lifted, as soon as the solder melted the board dropped under its own weight and this released the cap from the solder mount. I held the nozzle vertically straight and moved back and forth slowly from one pad to the next. I did the whole SE/30 board and didn't lose any pads.

meanwhile, on the DVD board I found this thing, I don't know what it is but it looks pretty cool.

20220303_194725.jpg
 

trag

Tinkerer
Oct 25, 2021
280
133
43
Public Service Announcement: Remember to take the protective cap OFF of your soldering iron before turning it on!
And when soldering while using magnification keep in mind that your depth perception may be hosed, unless you like the sound of your nose grease sizzling.

Just call me Stripes.