Custom USB-C powered 8"display for the Apple IIc with STL files and build plan

[wottle]

I just picked up a Creality CR10 v2 from FB marketplace this morning... so running a first test print it may not be suitable until further testing. My Ender 3 Pro will only print to 8" so it is not wide enough to print as a single piece.

I will try to print the full piece this week in Platinum and see how it goes.
View attachment 24593

@wottle , one thing you will have to check is if the control panel buttons line up with the "back" of the LCD cover, it may need some adjustment. Most of these controller boards are very similar, but it might be just enough off to not fit correctly. There is currently no internal mounting holes for the video board itself, so you may have to resort to double-sided foam tape to hold the driver board to the back of the iPad screen. I will measure my board and add some mounts on the back panel for it before I print it.

My particular iPad driver only has VGA and HDMI inputs, no composite. My Eyoyo 8" has VGA, HDMI, and composite inputs.
View attachment 24594

I have the other revision that has composite video on, but I'm hoping the button control board is the same. But it does look like there are a bunch of different variants of the same controller boards. I even found this one which would be cool for my SE inspired LCD panel - a ton of inputs in an easily mountable form factor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2269545937...eIs_Xj6R-FO4BRyoedhzPBtT9kiitqkVjgUKrHX1ZtRj4

I'm still hoping to squeeze in a buck converter off the USB-C trigger board so basically I'll have this:

                            /--- 15v ---> internal buck converter (12v) --- 12v ---> LCD board
---> USB-C Trigger (15v) -<
                            \--- 15v ---> external Apple IIc connector to power computer

So the LCD enclosure will have a single USB-C input for powering both the LCD and the Apple IIc, with two cables coming out (one going to power the IIc and one that has an RCA plug for composite video.

However, I actually checked the current being pulled for my 10" iPad screen off the monitor output line and it is pulling a bit over 400mA and I haven't run into problems. Given the 8" Eyoyo pulls less than that, I may go back to my original plan of having the pull power and composite from the video out port. That would allow me to have the LCD always plugged in with a single cable, and I could power the IIc from my usb-c power adapter. It achieves my main goal of not having to have multiple USB-C cables to power everything.

 

[phunguss]

I have the other revision that has composite video on, but I'm hoping the button control board is the same. But it does look like there are a bunch of different variants of the same controller boards. I even found this one which would be cool for my SE inspired LCD panel - a ton of inputs in an easily mountable form factor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2269545937...eIs_Xj6R-FO4BRyoedhzPBtT9kiitqkVjgUKrHX1ZtRj4

That board looks almost identical to my Eyoyo 8", minus the audio in/out.

 

[ArjenCNX]

This is just an example, I would like to test print to make sure it fits before I attach the STL files. The only thing I have modified is the Bezel and Back, I left all the other parts as released by @ArjenCNX
View attachment 24585
View attachment 24586
View attachment 24587

Wow, that is so cool!!! Awesome man!

 

[phunguss]

I am going to need a bigger printer.

I was digging through my inventory looking for something else, when I stumbled upon an old iBook 14" panel with a controller board. It is wider than the iic !

Since I have the VGA output card for my //e, I think this one will get saved for that.

So much stuff, I forget what I have already.

 

[ArjenCNX]

you may want to upgrade the CCFL for an LED strip, they are cheap and available for 14" displays and will be brighter and save power

 

[wottle]

I am going to need a bigger printer.

I was digging through my inventory looking for something else, when I stumbled upon an old iBook 14" panel with a controller board. It is wider than the iic !
View attachment 24615

Since I have the VGA output card for my //e, I think this one will get saved for that.
View attachment 24616

So much stuff, I forget what I have already.

That's why I had to create an inventory management system... I kept forgetting what I had and what I had done to each thing. I haven't cataloged all the random parts, though...

 

[wottle]

So my JLC3DP order arrived!

Unfortunately, I didn't fully look at the instructions enough to realize that some of the parts need to be printed twice. Maybe in your instructions you could call out that there are two parts that need multiple prints (the knob and the cable hooks). Or maybe in the file names you can give them something that indicates they should be printed double (I see it now in your image, but missed it before).

Also, I think there may be a couple of parts missing that are probably optional, but you might want to include. It appears you have some small caps that go inside the slots on the knobs that cover the hex key when installed. I don't see those STL files or see them in your image of your prints. I'd like to make sure I have all the prints I need before I place my next order. I can't really complete this until I get the other knob, but trying to batch orders to save on shipping.

Also, there appears to be a support protruding from the bezel. I'm not sure if you put that there to level out the print to ensure the top surface will be as smooth as possible, or if I'm missing a hole on my back plate, but I assume I can cut this off?

Also, It seems like there's one channel for the cable under the base, but it splits out and there's a cable cover of some king for an offshoot. What's the purpose of that?

Finally, there are a couple areas that I think photos would be helpful for. First, I found the holes in the back for the USB-holder and cable hooks. I assume those are optional, but it would be good to show them installed so people know where they go. Second, maybe a picture of how the LCD control board, and the USB-C trigger board are mounted inside the case would be helpful. And third, related to the picture above, maybe something showing the cable routing of the RCA and USB-C cables would be nice. Not trying to be critical, just pointing out some things I struggled with trying to visualize how it all goes together. I can also take pictures of these things when I assemble mine, if you'd like.

This is awesome work and I can't wait to get started. I'll probably get the LCD and back panel set up with the LCD

 

[phunguss]

Also, there appears to be a support protruding from the bezel. I'm not sure if you put that there to level out the print to ensure the top surface will be as smooth as possible, or if I'm missing a hole on my back plate, but I assume I can cut this off?

I am not sure why that was so long, as there was not a matching hole in the back panel cover. Sorry my iPad version is taking so long... the CR10 large 3D printer I just bought needs some work.

I tried printing my design in quadrants on my smaller printer, to assemble with dovetails, but I was using some bad filament and it didn't work out. When I have the larger printer working, I will test it, and then upload my files.

 

[wottle]

I am not sure why that was so long, as there was not a matching hold in the back panel cover. Sorry my iPad version is taking so long... the CR10 large 3D printer I just bought needs some work.
View attachment 24721
I tried printing my design in quadrants on my smaller printer, to assemble with dovetails, but I was using some bad filament and it didn't work out. When I have the larger printer working, I will test it, and then upload my files.
View attachment 24722View attachment 24723

No rush. I have the 8” to build so hopefully I can figure out the post and get the remaining parts ordered.

I also am a little unclear on the assemble of the knobs it appears you take a small Allen key and have to cut down both ends of the key to a specific length. The probably glue it into the knob? There’s a small lion holding the knob to the side, but it feels like the knob would not stay in place to tighten the hex head bolt. I’m hoping it will make more sense when I get the bolts and start assembly. I’ll also try to take assembly picture as I go.

 

[ArjenCNX]

So my JLC3DP order arrived!

Unfortunately, I didn't fully look at the instructions enough to realize that some of the parts need to be printed twice. Maybe in your instructions you could call out that there are two parts that need multiple prints (the knob and the cable hooks). Or maybe in the file names you can give them something that indicates they should be printed double (I see it now in your image, but missed it before).

Also, I think there may be a couple of parts missing that are probably optional, but you might want to include. It appears you have some small caps that go inside the slots on the knobs that cover the hex key when installed. I don't see those STL files or see them in your image of your prints. I'd like to make sure I have all the prints I need before I place my next order. I can't really complete this until I get the other knob, but trying to batch orders to save on shipping.

Also, there appears to be a support protruding from the bezel. I'm not sure if you put that there to level out the print to ensure the top surface will be as smooth as possible, or if I'm missing a hole on my back plate, but I assume I can cut this off?

View attachment 24690

Also, It seems like there's one channel for the cable under the base, but it splits out and there's a cable cover of some king for an offshoot. What's the purpose of that? View attachment 24689


Finally, there are a couple areas that I think photos would be helpful for. First, I found the holes in the back for the USB-holder and cable hooks. I assume those are optional, but it would be good to show them installed so people know where they go. Second, maybe a picture of how the LCD control board, and the USB-C trigger board are mounted inside the case would be helpful. And third, related to the picture above, maybe something showing the cable routing of the RCA and USB-C cables would be nice. Not trying to be critical, just pointing out some things I struggled with trying to visualize how it all goes together. I can also take pictures of these things when I assemble mine, if you'd like.

This is awesome work and I can't wait to get started. I'll probably get the LCD and back panel set up with the LCD

Hi wottle, first of all, those prints look to be of good quality, so that is great!

1: the support on the bezel, is indeed a support, as this was intended for extrusion printing, its an extra help to make sure the print is levelled perfectly, quite important for extrusion printing, it can be removed, i think with your materials a dremel cutter is probably the safest option, second best is a small saw blade where you can manually remove it.
2: multiples, i agree, i could have been more clear, i did provide the prusa slicer pictures where you can see how many of each are printed, but it should probably have been spelled out. sorry about that, re-ordering is kind of shitty...

3: the cavity on the bottom side is where the USB-C PD PCB board goes, so you plug power in to the monitor there, i have glued mine in with hot-glue and then i filled it to make it flush. the main channel is where the video cable goes.

let me know how it goes with the inserts, i hope that will work out well.

 

[ArjenCNX]

The Knobs i had i have drilled out slightly to get a tight fit, and then i pressed the allen key in the knobs, after cutting them to length, this may not be preferable for laser sintered material, it depends on it's brittleness, the allen key should be a tight fit so it not loose. it's a bit difficult for me to recommend on how to do this as i do not know exactly what materials you have there with your print. some experimentation may be needed there, so if you re-order, i suggest you get some extra's of this part.

if you have any other questions, please let me know, ill do my best to support you.

Hope it will be a great build!

Arjen.

No rush. I have the 8” to build so hopefully I can figure out the post and get the remaining parts ordered.

I also am a little unclear on the assemble of the knobs it appears you take a small Allen key and have to cut down both ends of the key to a specific length. The probably glue it into the knob? There’s a small lion holding the knob to the side, but it feels like the knob would not stay in place to tighten the hex head bolt. I’m hoping it will make more sense when I get the bolts and start assembly. I’ll also try to take assembly picture as I go.

 

[wottle]

Hi wottle, first of all, those prints look to be of good quality, so that is great!

1: the support on the bezel, is indeed a support, as this was intended for extrusion printing, its an extra help to make sure the print is levelled perfectly, quite important for extrusion printing, it can be removed, i think with your materials a dremel cutter is probably the safest option, second best is a small saw blade where you can manually remove it.
2: multiples, i agree, i could have been more clear, i did provide the prusa slicer pictures where you can see how many of each are printed, but it should probably have been spelled out. sorry about that, re-ordering is kind of shitty...

3: the cavity on the bottom side is where the USB-C PD PCB board goes, so you plug power in to the monitor there, i have glued mine in with hot-glue and then i filled it to make it flush. the main channel is where the video cable goes.

let me know how it goes with the inserts, i hope that will work out well.

Awesome! That you so much for the reply. And that separate spot clearly is the perfect size for the usb-c trigger board. I should have figured that out.
Thanks again for the explanation and for all the work you put into this!

Is there an additional small piece that goes into the slot in the knob to cover the hex key after it is inserted? I didn’t see it in the stls or on the picture of the prints.

 

[ArjenCNX]

Awesome! That you so much for the reply. And that separate spot clearly is the perfect size for the usb-c trigger board. I should have figured that out.
Thanks again for the explanation and for all the work you put into this!

Is there an additional small piece that goes into the slot in the knob to cover the hex key after it is inserted? I didn’t see it in the stls or on the picture of the prints.

It seems you are correct, those were kind of an after thought, I'll upload them tomorrow as well, they are just tiny wedges that fill in the knobs

 

[wottle]

It seems you are correct, those were kind of an after thought, I'll upload them tomorrow as well, they are just tiny wedges that fill in the knobs

Finally got around to disassembling the Eyoyo LCD. Things make a lot more sense after seeing the parts from the LCD and your prints together, after removing the support post.

I tried using the existing mounting bracket to secure the LCD and it worked, but then I discovered the likely reason why you didn't use it - with the extra width of the bracket, the two large caps on one side of the board stick out too tall for the back to close. You also would need to cut off the top of the plastic rear panel (which I did, but now now is not necessary).



I also discovered another good lesson - you can't drill into thin resin - it shatters. Good thing I need to place another order at JLC3DP!



Anyway, for visual learners like me, here are the steps:

Open up the Eyoyo by removing 4 screws (one under a sticker):


Remove the control board after disconnecting the button panel, the backlight connector, and the LCD ribbon cable (under tape), Note the button board connector is a 4 pin connector going into a 6 pin socket, so make sure you note where it goes.


At this point you can remove the LCD from the original frame and install it in the 3d printed one. I recommend following @ArjenCNX 's instructions and mounting it with double sided tape. IF you use the mounting bracket, it will not have enough room for the controller board.



Next, with the controller board out, you need to remove several connectors. This is a pain. I only removed the 12v barrel jack connector, the NNC connector, the RCA video connectors, and the VGA connector. The USB and HDMI connectors were lower than the tallest caps, so I left them in. I'll let you know if I have issues when I get the panel and controller reinstalled with double sided tape. For now, any internal pictures will show it mounted to the bracket, which is not recommended. You can also see I lifted some traces when I removed the VGA connector. Fortunately, those are not needed so I just made sure they didn't short against each other.



You can also mount the button board. The direction of the mount means you must either remove the IR sensor or bend it backwards. I did the latter.



As for the cables, I ran the RCA cable about 7" from the end of the base. That gives enough room for the cable to easily reach the port and be able to plug and unplug.



I also installed connectors for the composite video and power cables to make sure I could adjust the lengths easily if needed. Here's what mine looks like after I have it all connected.



I don't have the parts for the other knob or the hinge assembly yet, and I haven't figured out how I will be getting the bolts in without the ability to melt them in place. So it's just the two parts, mostly assembled, with a shattered hole in the back for now. But it does look really nice and I think once I re-mount the controller and get a new back, it will look incredible.



Thanks again for doing this!

 

[ArjenCNX]

Finally got around to disassembling the Eyoyo LCD. Things make a lot more sense after seeing the parts from the LCD and your prints together, after removing the support post.

I tried using the existing mounting bracket to secure the LCD and it worked, but then I discovered the likely reason why you didn't use it - with the extra width of the bracket, the two large caps on one side of the board stick out too tall for the back to close. You also would need to cut off the top of the plastic rear panel (which I did, but now now is not necessary).

View attachment 24743 View attachment 24754

I also discovered another good lesson - you can't drill into thin resin - it shatters. Good thing I need to place another order at JLC3DP!

View attachment 24734

Anyway, for visual learners like me, here are the steps:

Open up the Eyoyo by removing 4 screws (one under a sticker):
View attachment 24735

Remove the control board after disconnecting the button panel, the backlight connector, and the LCD ribbon cable (under tape), Note the button board connector is a 4 pin connector going into a 6 pin socket, so make sure you note where it goes.
View attachment 24758 View attachment 24757 View attachment 24756

At this point you can remove the LCD from the original frame and install it in the 3d printed one. I recommend following @ArjenCNX 's instructions and mounting it with double sided tape. IF you use the mounting bracket, it will not have enough room for the controller board.

View attachment 24751

Next, with the controller board out, you need to remove several connectors. This is a pain. I only removed the 12v barrel jack connector, the NNC connector, the RCA video connectors, and the VGA connector. The USB and HDMI connectors were lower than the tallest caps, so I left them in. I'll let you know if I have issues when I get the panel and controller reinstalled with double sided tape. For now, any internal pictures will show it mounted to the bracket, which is not recommended. You can also see I lifted some traces when I removed the VGA connector. Fortunately, those are not needed so I just made sure they didn't short against each other.

View attachment 24750View attachment 24746

You can also mount the button board. The direction of the mount means you must either remove the IR sensor or bend it backwards. I did the latter.

View attachment 24749 View attachment 24748

As for the cables, I ran the RCA cable about 7" from the end of the base. That gives enough room for the cable to easily reach the port and be able to plug and unplug.

View attachment 24745

I also installed connectors for the composite video and power cables to make sure I could adjust the lengths easily if needed. Here's what mine looks like after I have it all connected.

View attachment 24742

I don't have the parts for the other knob or the hinge assembly yet, and I haven't figured out how I will be getting the bolts in without the ability to melt them in place. So it's just the two parts, mostly assembled, with a shattered hole in the back for now. But it does look really nice and I think once I re-mount the controller and get a new back, it will look incredible.

View attachment 24737 View attachment 24736 View attachment 24734

Thanks again for doing this!

I totally forgot to mention that i replaced the capacitors with normal DIP ones, allot of this is just me doing things to make it all fit on the fly, i also removed the IR sensor, you don't need it. Otherwise it looks pretty smooth, i think it's possible to grind down the screw inserts to make those fit. the colour is actually quite nice, it's a closer match then i had thought! so that's a bonus right there! once all is done, i think we could re-write the instructions and include a chapter on using resin/laser sintering printed parts. if more people want to do this then it warrants dedicated files with adjusted holes for screw inserts so we can glue them in.

also, just out of curiosity, how much did it cost to get all these parts printed?

 

[ArjenCNX]

Here are the fill-in pieces for the knob, you'll need 2 of them.

so for future reference,

- Hook 2X
- Knob 2X
- Knob fill 2X

 

[wottle]

I totally forgot to mention that i replaced the capacitors with normal DIP ones, allot of this is just me doing things to make it all fit on the fly, i also removed the IR sensor, you don't need it. Otherwise it looks pretty smooth, i think it's possible to grind down the screw inserts to make those fit. the colour is actually quite nice, it's a closer match then i had thought! so that's a bonus right there! once all is done, i think we could re-write the instructions and include a chapter on using resin/laser sintering printed parts. if more people want to do this then it warrants dedicated files with adjusted holes for screw inserts so we can glue them in.

also, just out of curiosity, how much did it cost to get all these parts printed?

It was a little over $40, but $18 of that was shipping to the US. Normally I can get my parts shipped for less than $5, but since these were bigger, it increased the shipping costs substantially. I'm hoping I can get my new back plate and knob + knob fillers for cheaper.

I agree on the look, I was very happy with the way it turned out. Still a little bright white, but it looks good.

After watching that YouTube video, I think the best solution for resin would be to use direct screw in for the back to the front piece. I used it for the bracket mount, and the screws for the button board and they seem very secure. I wonder if you could do the same for the outside case. Re-use the 4 screws from the Eyoyo outer shell? For the hinge, It would probably need to be a hex shaped opening for the nut and then use superglue to secure it into the opening. I haven't assembled that part, yet, so I don't know the exact mechanism, but hopefully that would be as secure as melting it into the center.

Also, on the hex key, is it possible you have different hex keys than I do. All of mine are bent with the around a flat edge. It seems your knob is expecting it to bend around on of the points. Not sure If I'm explaining it properly, but if the elbow if the hex key is supposed to go down the slot to give it more torque, mine is offset by a bit...

 

[ArjenCNX]

That is a very fair price, not bad at all!
maybe for threads they could be designed in, and then printed since the resolution should be high enough.

on the hex keys, i have just drilled these out, since the slot keeps the hex key in place anyway, and my added knob fill keeps in in place, so the hex profile doesn't matter too much. i could change this in design though, if needed