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I just posted about a similar problem on the 68k Mac OS thread. For whatever reason the Apple disk setup utilities show a grayed out 'UPDATE' button when pointed at a volume with the Lido driver - regardless of where I boot from.

I'm using a ZuluSCSI Pico slim on one of my SE/30s. The Zulu firmware complains about one of the images having a LIDO SCSI driver and warns of potential problems. But, regardless of how I try to come at it I'm unable to 'UPDATE' (replace the SCSI driver) on that volume. I know that one cannot...

Is there any chance you damaged an adjacent component or connection when peeling away the hot-melt glue to remove caps?

There's a special place in Hades for eBay sellers who lie about or obfuscate their location. I've reported several to eBay who, wait for it, did absolutely nothing about the situation. My "favorite" was a location of "Chino, CA" - aka Shenzen.

This *really* sounds like either a bad SD card or a problem with the Blue SCSI that's causing disk corruption. TLDR; but have you run a file system check (chkdsk or fsck, etc.) against the SD?

I'll second the point about SCSI cabling. After spending a week chasing intermittent lockups of my Quadra 650 I finally narrowed it down to a faulty OEM 50-pin ribbon cable. With the top off it always worked properly but when the case was closed it just barely touched the cable and triggered...

I just successfully added a Spicy OClock to my Q650 and it's running reliably at 44 MHz. I would really like to mount the Spicy board using something more positive than electrical tape or doublestick and am curious whether there's a 3d printable bracket for this purpose?

Ah, ok. I tripped over that last year and found a number of issues. It doesn't fit properly and, worse, the slot intended to clear the CD drawer has an odd curvature on it's top face and prevents it from opening. Looks almost like it was designed from a photo taken at an off-center angle...

The links above no longer work. Does anyone have the STL or 3mf for this?

Do have a voltmeter? It might be worth checking the terminator voltage with the SCSI plugged in.

What computer is being used? In particular, the Mac Plus does not supply terminator power by default (you can enable it by adding a diode).

Just a guess: 1N915 diode (?) This is from a keyboard matrix, right? Probably isn't all that critical what you use so long as the forward voltage drop is similar.

If both flybacks appear to be operating correctly my advice would be to leave them be. The Console5 kits come with all caps required, RIFA and otherwise. Note that most of the board caps are gobbed together and/or to the board with hot-melt glue. If it can be peeled away safely, do so...

Can't comment on the flyback (I don't see anything concerning in the photo, though). Definitely replace the RIFA caps ASAP. If your soldering skills are good recap the entire analog board.

Interesting! That Dove board is very similar to mine, but there are some key differences. I've posted photos of mine in a different topic here and will link to it if I can find it. I think this link will work: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/remove-and-socket-se-30-cpu.4153/post-35720

I'd definitely vote for the 45-degree sockets.

Can you post photos of that Dove accelerator? I recently removed and socketed the 030 chip in one of my SE/30s in order to install a Dove 030 accelerator. Works just fine, but I'm curious if yours has any bodge wires or other obvious differences. FYI: The 512ke daughterboard is carrying 1.5...

Heh - I left the machine on overnight running RAM tests and the jailbars returned. I see a chip replacement in my crystal ball...

yw! Glad it helped!

I hate intermittent problems... Took the machine apart and ran the motherboard on the bench using extension cables. The problem appeared initially. While it was showing the jailbars I poked, prodded, knocked, bent the pcb slightly and used freeze spray in the area of UE8. No effect on the...