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As YMK says, you don't need to program the USB hub chip - it just does its thing. If you're doing this as a hobby thing and not a commercial enterprise, there isn't really any issue in programming the 32U4 over USB. Even for small volume sales it could be a feature for the homebrew community -...

They're pretty difficult to get hold of. People ask several times over more money for them than they do for 72pin simms. I've never managed to actually buy any, I was just lucky when a couple of machines had a few in already. I don't think I have enough for 1.5GB in a machine. Given the price...

They're nice! The AdaFruit documentation actually includes a schematic, so you could integrate the design, although it might be nice to ask them if it isn't just a straight up reference design from the datasheet (also below, and includes reference designs)...

Yeah, if you just moved resistors, you wont be running at 40MHz. Electrically the computer has a 40MHz setting on the resistors, but there isn't a ROM entry, so the computer just doesn't boot. It doesn't even chime. I suspect you're running at 33MHz. Like @JDW says, Clockometer will tell you.

As YMK says, you wouldn't implement a hub like that. If I was doing it on a budget, I'd perhaps buy a pre-existing board, remove the connectors or use extension cables internally and call it a day. Something like this might do as a USB 2.0 hub. Just search for CJMCU-204 on eBay or...

I've been able to run my 475 at up to 52MHz, but if you're already running at 40MHz I assume you have disconnected one of the pins on the 88920 and injected an external clock, or have a modified ROM? I'd need to know what exactly you've done to your machine to be able to answer for your specific...

At the end of the day, people in the hobby, I can't really complain. People have free will and no obligations. Work stuff, if it matters, either they need to be reminded why it has to happen and be given a deadline and milestones, otherwise it is getting reallocated to someone else. I've had it...

To the thread more generally: I've still not been able to get significant support with PowerPC elements of the future version. One person got in touch but unfortunately they answer one out of three questions and then go silent for multiple weeks. I've made so little progress I've not actually...

Evening @Opualuan Do you have a PowerPC upgrade? The current latest published version is available for download here : http://stuffandnonsense.elephantandchicken.co.uk/?p=2519 I'll try to remember to keep that version up to date.

Throw ice in every now and then. Leave a bit of headroom for the volume of ice you need. Alternatively, run the one coil through a second larger diameter pipe and connect the outer pipe to a source of cold water like a tap (if you're unmetered you could theoretically just run the far end into a...

Just to remind people, in many places around the world there are legal restrictions on distillation sadly. Just saying in case you order a still and the police come knocking. I realise this isn't vodka, but the legal restrictions might not overly care. Additionally, as already mentioned, the...

You'll be fine. The main trap is that there is a little latch on the big many pin connector in the middle of the board. It is on the far side so you can't see it. With the CRT neck not far above it, you want to make sure you push that latch, and then rock the connector side to side rather than...

That's a shame - I used that site when picking an upgraded drive for my Pismo. I didn't worry about the bezel in the end, but got a lovely DVD / CD writer. I'll just check what it was for reference, it worked with not messing with master / slave or anything. Just plugged right in. Works with...

The main thing is you need the long T15 drive as mentioned. Then with the 4 screws removed, the trick to opening it without a mac cracker is to put the SE face down on the bed (not near the edge), and using the flats of your hands, sharply but not too hard, bring them together like you're...

I got muddled - the 7300 has a different connector like the 8600 and 9600. I wrote 7300 instead of 7600, which is the same as the others in that group I believe, like you say! I've just tweaked that list to correct it. It means that the 7300 drops off the list because to my knowledge, it is a...

Yes, but I struggle with troubleshooting them to be honest. I'm not 100% comfortable working at mains voltages. Personally I find PSUs more of a problem than anything else.

There is a lot of PSU interchangeability between macs (and not limited to one side of the 68k/PPC change over), but it is important to note that the power rating tends to slowly increased with newer machines. Off the top of my head the following are can be grouped... IIcx, IIci, IIvx, IIvi...

Perhaps - we'll find out. There are a couple of enhancements in the Classic ROM, but it might be for nothing. Some of the Mac ROMs only offer the enhancements when booting specific machines - the Classic ROM is a series of patches on top of the base SE ROM - if those patches don't apply when...

Only thing I'd say is if you are trying to save money or keep a machine as original as possible, invest in a cheap component tester. They work surprisingly well and with a little guidance you can do things like check every cap in a PSU and verify the condition. This can be a real money saver...

Yeah, never say never. I've not noticed people saying axials never need replacing, it is certainly less frequent, but what I tend to say to people is that machines with SMD "tin can" electrolytics from between 1988 and 1992 are recap on sight. Everything else is recap based on condition - i.e...