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Well done! I looked at the insides of my MDD PSU, said “no way,” and backed away slowly and quietly. I got it fixed professionally, and have obtained a couple more PSU’s in case I get up the nerve to tackle them. As far as what to do with it? This is partial list of what I’ve done with mine...

I searched stlfinder and found this listed as being on Thingiverse. I could have saved myself some time - it turns out I had it in my thingiverse collection already.

This model of Mac tends to be reliable, suggesting that it was designed to tolerate the heat. Just don’t put anything (like books) over the vents.

I loved my Palm Pilots. Unlike my iPhone, they actually beeped at the scheduled time. My iPhone SE gen2 is occasionally late, as much as 45 minutes. Also unlike my iPhone, they did not respond well to being dropped. I tend to drop things - always have. In school, my books would go flying...

Which model? The trackpad of my 2008 MacBook Pro was replaceable.

The box fan attaches to the analog board to the left on this picture, where the board is labelled “yellow” and “black.” (The wire is red, not yellow, because the fan is a replacement.)

Resistor R31 is a 4.7 ohm 5% tolerance and most likely 1/2 Watt, given it’s larger size compared to most of the other resistors. R31 and the W6 jumper are completely absent from my box fan analog boards (820-0206-B and 820-0206-C).

You can print (or have printed) a fan mount (https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/macintosh-se-or-se-30-fan-bracket.976/) If I recall correctly, the yoke connector that goes with a regular box fan analog board is vertical, whereas the connector that goes with the squirrel cage fan analog board...

This is a good fan replacement - essentially a newer version of one of the original fans: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sanyo-denki-america-inc/9S0612M402/6192458 Some like the Noctua 60mm fans, as they are known for being quiet.

Replacing the analog board connector should take care of the arcing that likely caused this to happen. If you were planning to keep the analog board connector (not advisable), I’d desolder then resolder it using plenty of flux. That should also take care of the arcing.

Thanks for the details - that was very helpful. I found a TiBook battery that came apart easily using the method you described. I still can't open the other TiBook batteries I mentioned earlier - they seem to be welded shut. My plan now is to attempt to open TiBook batteries with the method...

I have had no success opening these batteries with typical opening tools. A plastic wedge inserted through a cut I made in the corner or into the slit down the side made by the ultrasonic knife just deforms the plastic case. A metal spudger just bends.

Update: An Amazon email said that the marketplace seller did not send the cheap $40 ultrasonic knife, and I will not be charged for it. I bought in its place a $179 Magicutter knife that has two intensity settings: High (15V, bottom of knife shines yellow), and Low (12V, shines green). A...

Some years back, I replaced the dual 1.25MHz cpu that came with my MDD G4 FW400 with a dual 1.42MHz. I had no problems for years. Over the past few years, however, both my long-serving G4 and the backup MDD G4 I obtained in 2018 have become unstable. I’ve had PSU’s refurbished, changed logic...

I believe the well ventilated cases with the round holes are the Apple branded PSU’s.

I upgraded one of my SE/30 PSU’s rather spending time trying to keep a 35 year old Astek going, and upgraded a few other Astek and Apple branded PSU’s for the sake of longevity. I’m planning to recap, rather than upgrade, the Sonys, which have a better reputation for reliability.

There’s an ultrasonic cutter on Amazon for $40, no reviews. Owners have to provide their own power supplies. I’ve taken the plunge, and plan to report back once I’ve had a chance to use it. At least it’s returnable, should it turn out to be junk...

As the Mean Well RT-85B is convection cooled, I’d recommend using the case from an Astek or Apple SE/30 PSU rather than Sony, since they have greater ventilation.

My Sony PSU is labeled: 5V at 6A 12V#1 at 1.25A (sweep) 12V#2 at 2.1A (disk) -12V at 0.5 Total 12V needed is 3.35A, which would need the 18CFM fan to achieve with the MeanWell. I’ve combined 12V sweep and disk from the single 12V output of my Seasonic SSP-250SUB without difficulties.

What is your method for opening these? I have created significant damage to the ones I've opened, and could use some advice before tackling the few I have left.