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Control reset does stop the drive motor and light. Yes the head does the track 0 chatter. PSU looks good. Dead on voltage rails with no drives attached. The 12V rail drops to like 11.7 when the drive is attached and motor is continuously running.

I have a IIe whose disk 1 will light up and spin indefinitely whether a disk is inserted or not. From some googling it looks like it can commonly be due be an issue with the disk controller card or analog board on the drive itself. I swap tested with two other known working drives and a known...

Can you explain that a bit more? What specifically is happening at cold boot and how does it change after warmup? The lined pattern you're seeing is the default state of the VRAM and it looks consistent. So the VRAM is almost certainly okay. You more likely have a continuity or contention issue...

I got an Apple IIe recently with no power. Here's a quick account of what was needed to get it working in case it's helpful to others. The system was loaded with a bunch of expansion cards. Those were all removed, but still no beep. The power LED on the MLB would sometimes pulse and the PSU...

There is a hole on the back side. I'd use a hair drier to warm up the badge from the rear and as blunt of a tool possible to poke through that hole to push the badge off.

Can you share some good photos of your logic board? Even if you're not seeing obvious signs, the caps may have leaked onto other components, causing a short. Replacing them alone might not solve your problem. You might have to clean the board thoroughly and potentially repair broken traces...

I've been experimenting with reproducing the various rubber bits from PowerBooks lately. Here's what I've found to work pretty well so far: Print a positive in resin Let the resin positive off-gas several days. Coat the resin positive in clear enamel (spray paint) Create a silicone (platinum...

I have several Portables and have helped some friends with others. Here are some things that I've dealt with. I've had a couple with multiple stuck or dead lines on the screen. I tried cleaning the zebra connector but that didn't help and I wasn't able to find a way to fix them. I haven't seen...

Oops I misread the post as color classic. Im a dummy please ignore :-)

Have you recapped the logic board? It's common on this model for the SMD caps near the EGRET (ADB controller) to leak around that chip and prevent soft power from working. If that happened you'll need to recap and clean the heck out of that area. Some times you need to completely remove the...

Pin 76 of U2 looks like it may be bridged to its neighbor. The circled areas have some pins that look tarnished. Have you already checked those areas closely?

There's not a lot of info on this card online, so here are some things I've learned about it that will hopefully be helpful to others. The OrangePC 290 is essentially a PC on a Nubus card, complete with a processor, memory, header for IO and a PCMCIA card cage on some configs for expansion...

No. The manual says just leave it disconnected. Does anyone here have tips about how to best construct a y-cable? I'm thinking of buying a premade HD26 cable and then splitting that off to the other DB15 cables, but not sure if I should splice in premade DB15 cables or just split off the HD26...

Thanks so much @Garrett !

Is there a pinout handy for the connector on the DOS Compatibility card found in the 6100 and other models? I found a post about it on 68kmla via google, but their site is down. From the google result it looks like there was a spreadsheet with the pinout somewhere.

To answer your question directly it's a Molex MiniFitJr 14-position, but that doesn't matter. Just get an ATX extension cable which will fit fine. You can trim it if you like or just let it hang over one end.

As a little follow up, the Cherry RR812C1000-116 DPST 16A 125V switch worked great. To get to the switch, remove 4x T15 security screws on the four corners of the rear housing. There should be just enough room to place it parallel to the rest of the enclosure. Note the placement of the switch...

Oof that sucks. I might epoxy in little coper pads for the NC pins to anchor the chip down and then bodge the rest with really thin (maybe 40AWG wire. It'll take a lot of time and patience and still look like a mess after though.

I recently found a cheap (~$200) Metcal MX-5200 on eBay listed as powering on but otherwise untested. When powered up with good hand pieces connected it would display "Open Error" on the left channel. Opening it up revealed loose screws and nuts from the LCD panel, likely because someone tried...

It’s a big glass vase.