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Sounds like a ZT alignment issue, this resource might help: https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/zero-track-alignment.37/

# forever # up to 1000 times better (1.3 Gb) # yes / almost (depending on what you benchmark) Don’t know why the standard did not become the “new floppy”, it ticked all the boxes. In Japan it was hugely popular, elsewhere more like a niche, fancy storage media.

This is the reference website: https://powercc.org/ here’s also this rather excellent video from @JDW It’s possible to run a 575 motherboard without any further hardware mod by using software hacks (ResEdit stuff). They are only available for limited choice of OS, though. I have it like...

I have the same experience. A keyboard which was looking beige, turned to more or less its original color after a few days of exposure to sunlight. The same with a yellowed CC case. Not as quick and spectacular as retrobrighting, but way less intrusive. Besides, I don’t mind seeing some patina...

Thanks! For the moment I’m fine with what came with each motherboard I got. I only have b/w hardware in early specs. But I’d appreciate to read about what you get out of this effort.

Sorry, I forgot… you also need a super rare hence expensive DB19 monitor cable. That one can be even fabricated in house, at least as long as you are able to source the DB 19 connectors. Anyhow, NeXT hardware is terribly fascinating, I must admit I squandered embarrassing amount of money and...

#1 Are Apple Macintosh ADB keyboards and mice compatible with this machine and if so how? You need a Turbo chipset and Rom v.74 as minimum. Additionally, a MegaPixel Display N4000B or a Soundbox N4004A. And a specific ADB cable. #2 Where do I find a replacement HDD Bracket, I will be using a...

Very interesting thread. Learning from our lessons is one of the cornerstones for continuously improving any process. Most recent one from my side. Wanted to align a floppy drive, remove it from the metal bracket and used the bracket as standoff. Forgot to put some paper foil in between for...

Some time ago I modified an ADB board to run a VGA display and spare hours to my Mega Displays. It surely works, but it feels somehow odd, don’t quite appreciate the “retro experience” in full. So, take good care of your Mega Display!

These are indeed nice machines. A little overrated, but definitely plenty of reasons for loving them. I definitely do. I see you have a plain, first gen N4000 display, the one with the impossibly heavy steel support. And with the “rotten” (hydrolisis) rollers. A few years ago I made a small run...

Maybe so, but a piece of steel that small costs literally nothing in terms of grams of steel used to make the part. Other direct and indirect costs are surely the greatest share of the production costs. On a machine that costed many hundreds of dollars and was sold for thousands of dollars and...

My two cents… The metal bracket of the SE board is mainly a mean for mechanical assembling. Of course, it has to be grounded, like the whole chassis. Pathways to ground are redundant by design. The conductive paint on the case is for electromagnetic shielding, surely not for grounding.

Excellent. After many, many trials, I also ended up using more or less the same recipe. My twist: the herbs. I do not use basil and oregano (which work magic with tomato sauce), instead I use rosemary and sage, optionally thyme, which all work well with meat. One trick is to roll and tie them...

Very interesting! A few years ago I made a small run of rubber rollers for the NeXT N4000 display. It’s been a fun project. I tested a couple of compounds before finding the “right” one. The dye was easy to make, as they were… black. The finishing touch was sanding them for peeling the ”skin”...

Could also be both. You know for sure the logic board is not OK, but doesn’t mean the analog board is OK. I’d move a known good logic board on the faulty Mac for assessing the analog board at first.

I’m more or less going through the same process with my SE/30. After swapping yoke connector, all of a sudden no video. I thought I busted something else, but after carefully reflowing the board (remove old solder and apply fresh one), it got back to life. I honestly suspect thit might have been...

Totally agree.

By the same logic, the issue should have appeared just a few days after production. Instead, it appears some 30+ years later. Time is surely a huge factor in the equation. Like for everything in life. Clearly there’s some adhesive, sealant, glue layer that irreversibly ages and degrades over...

Interesting, thanks! No, I am not sure, not at all. Frankly, the whole analog board looks in pristine conditions. I will try and visually assess that area, maybe there’s something wrong there...

Hi All, In a tragicomic twist, while trying to fix the unfortunate damage I caused to the logic board of my beloved SE/30 as I inadvertently shorted the external floppy, I decided to run some basic maintenance on the analog board, too. In particular, I decided to replace the infamous P1...