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Just a quick update that may give some more idea of what's happening: when I do a Open Apple-Control-Reset, the screen resets and it appears the floppy doesn't try to reload, but the interesting thing is when I start typing on the keyboard, I do see the pattern change, which makes me believe...

I just picked up an Apple III locally and it came with a ProFile 5MB Drive (unfortunately no Profile card in the machine), two Apple /// Monitors, and the external floppy drive. I need to replace the RIFA caps as the big ones are cracked significantly. However, I decided to start it up in...

FYI, I've pivoted from using the universal voltage adapter because of the size and the pain of switching voltages, and have gone to building voltage specific versions of @PotatoFi's Powerbook adapter found here: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/powerbook-1xx-usb-c-pd-adapter.3827/post-33386...

That’s a good option for people that haven’t already bought the trigger boards. Less work than printing a box buying a trigger board. Update: built and works very well. Since there was no buck/boost converter in the 3d printed case, I used hot glue to secure the usb trigger board on the one...

Update number 2. The new adapters that do smaller boosting of voltage seem to be working well. I'm using a 20v trigger board for the 24v and a 15v trigger board for my 16v adapter, both with boost converters.. Both ran for a good amount of time without failing / overheating. The 7.5v adapter...

I recently picked up a Performa 640CD while visiting my sister in Colorado. Pictures showed the Mac side booting fine, and the price was good, and it had the DOS compatible markings on the front! Was looking for a partner to go with my 6115 with a DOS card, so I picked it up, removed some of...

Minor update. I haven't used the adapters too extensively yet, but I did break two of my boost converters powering my PowerBook G4 (Al 12") for only about 5 minutes. I forgot this one actually has a battery that takes a charge, and I believe a combination of boosting the voltage from 15v to...

So I did a measurement and it does seem like the proportions are a bit off. a 640x400 resolution should put the screen at a 1.6:1 ratio. On my monitor, it is displaying as 1.51:1. So it is stretched vertically a bit. I suspect this could be adjusted in the software on the adapter given that...

My understanding is that it matches the 640x400 resolution of the Portable. So the black bars at the top and bottom are for the 80 pixels that aren't populated on the 640x480 output. Getting hit by the hurricane at the moment so I don't want to plug it in during sporadic power outages to...

Getting better… … back together and still working. Not sure why it refused to power on before. and here’s my little box:

Unfortunately, this will have to do for now. Took everything out and trying to remove as much as possible. Video out definitely does work, though. Apologies for the messy desk One thing I did notice when my machine was still together is that the case I printed is tight up against the back of...

I tried to grab one, but my Portable is being a bit finicky. I'll snap one when I figure out why it's not booting.

Since I didn't learn my lesson about my terrible design skills while trying to build a universal laptop power adapter, I recently ordered one of @Androda's Portable VGA adapters and thought, "I probably should cover this up before I damage it and short out something important". So I build a...

Appreciate it. I may need to look into PrusaSlicer (I use Cura just because it's what I learned on and I have my printer settings the way I like them). I used Stamping in MeshMixer to add the voltages, but I'm guessing PrusaSlicer would be a much easier, cleaner process. Here's the finished...

OK, I put together my own versions of these. One using the buck converter you specified, and two using this boost converter to get 16v and 24v versions: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BNHR4HW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 I chose it because it matched the dimensions of the buck...

This is awesome. I've been exploring options for my vintage laptops and basically came to a similar solution to yours. I originally built a variable output device thinking one device for everything, but now I like the idea of USB-C with step-down / step up converters dedicated for each of the...

It does feel like the 24v to 20v may be too much of a gap. I think I may make a cable with the 12v trigger and a 24v booster inline. That will allow it to still be pretty discreet, but get me, hopefully, the stable 24v that will work best. I will still use interchangeable tips for the various...

OK, I went through a couple iterations and I think I got a good mix of sleekness and thermal handling. Waiting on my newest print to confirm, but with my earlier design, the buck/boost converter thermal protection would kick in and shut it down, which is not ideal when powering a laptop with no...

Ok, I got my new 3D printer and I need to do a bit of tweaking to get the print quality improved, but I was able to create a new box for the components and it’s a much better size. I’ll try to get the files posted up on Thingiverse with the full BoM when I have a bit of time. I also have a model...

My 3d printer is acting up, but I realized I have a plastic project box I never used and bought a panel mount USB-C port, cut some holes in the box, and put most of the stuff inside. The box is comically large for what I have inside, so I’ll address that when I make the printable box for...