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Yeah, I get that. I don’t have any other expansion add-ons or riser cards and such. There was a time I was hoping to find an ethernet adapter (we all were, right?) but now there’s no need. There was PiSCSI, but with the BlueSCSI2‘s wifi I am set. I don’t plan to invest in acceleration or rare...

Hey, nice! Yeah, supports in there won’t matter at all. I will say that the only reason I designed it in two parts was to avoid dealing with the supports, but that looks just fine. You’ll have to trim off the brim, but I bet both will work great! For my project, I am awaiting my BlueSCSI 2...

My SE/30 has a Noctua fan installed a few years ago when I was restoring it after watching one of @JDW ’s. videos. Thanks for that BTW! I could post a comment, but nice to thank you in person so to speak. In my case (pun intended), I think I will consider the fan one of the parts to look at...

I used to think that same thing. I got my printer as a kit to learn and to print parts for an art installation idea I had. I have never use it to print knick-knacks (although people must because you see those models on the homepages constantly). In reality, some of the first things you print are...

A lot of novice/expert options could be improved on these service sites by having a better UI/UX. I see there are the ”?” icons we would call “tool tips” that popup an explainer bubble, but it could be a lot better. Something like “this option controls the xyz of the pdq” and give a better...

Slicer software that prepares a model for printing will have hundreds--literally--of settings to deal with. These programs usually have ways to reduce how much they overwhelm the user by having a beginner mode, advanced, expert, to keep some of the less-used stuff out of view unless you really...

Yeah, and sometimes you want that solid part so that it does have flexibilty where you need it. The CRT tube protector for example has thin areas around the barbed "clips" that ensure thin but solid material there will bend enough to open and attach the the neck. With control over the variables...

If what you mean by solid is that there are no air gaps in the interior space then yes. However, somewhat counterintuitively, a rigid part is not necessarily a solid one. Sometimes 100% infill results in a part that bends easily whereas a part with Just two or three perimeter or wall thicknesses...

Interesting. I appreciate the simplified perspective you have enjoyed using JLC, but honestly, these options are much better to be able to control, even if they require you to invest in understanding them. Something like infill for example . . . JLC is making that decision for you, as well as...

This is why I typically seach via thangs.com which aggregates multiple sites into the results vs. picking just one that aims to push support for a given brand of printers. Makerworld.com is another important fixture with the growing popularity of BambuLabs. A designer has to do a lot of repeat...

This is pretty fascinating. . . My easy answer is that since I am participating in this discussion and making adjustments toward progress for each of us, I would hope not to confuse the models. Now, I have a Printables account too, and I have never really bothered to make my Thingiverse...

I just deleted my .zip attached above and re-uploaded a new one with a brimmed version inside too.

I like that animation! The 6.2 ID version was really for @wottle and his troubleshooting and possible group buy. I know its frustrating to wait for those results. I have not added this to the item on Thingiverse (yet), as I know already that the 6mm diameter works just fine on my own SE. We are...

Did you use the 6.2mm inner diameter version I posted here just 14 minutes ago? Wottle and I are trying to work out some dimensional challenges with clear resin. I am curious what file you used and obviously how the fit turns out.

Attached:

Ok, just to confirm: We are going to expand the inner diameter to 6.2 and nudge the flat out .05. I think I can do that. . .

Would 1mm be sufficient?

Wondering if maybe the flat is fine since it is not given any more room with flexing from the slits. Of course, expanding the ID slightly would give space opposite the flat, and of course in the perpendicular dimensions on each side.

Of course. . . Any suggestions on how much more room you might need? The original round hole is exactly 6.00mm. The flat encroaches another 1.75mm from the I.D.

I am finally getting this accessory finished and revisiting this post to provide the final details. First, the three socket-head screws that affix the upper base section (the part I 3D printed) to the bottom of the eMac: These turned out to be 4mm x 16mm, .70 thread pitch. Basically, they are...