Search results

@wottle I think they look fantastic regardless—like they are made of solid ice!

That’s interesting about the tightness after re-assembly. Here‘s that same ORIGINAL model installed on the board for which it was made. I know the model works for FDM parts just great: : You can see that the back rim very nearly touches the pot. If you slide the post of the pot into the knob...

Yeah, that is odd. When I have designed similar shapes with concentric cylinders, you don’t get infinite resolution. It is still broken down into facets. I know I am not using advanced CAD, so I don’t have direct control over arbitrary vertices for “smooth” shapes beyond being able to adjust the...

I could not contain my curiosity, so I did a simple search and quickly found this page which seems to explain in rather good detail why we sometimes see issues with STL files for printing: https://www.nano3dtech.com/p/problems-with-stl-files/ The upshot is that it is possible to model something...

Will you look at that! Thanks for that tip. I have never used the repair function. I have only noticed the automatic repairs that appear in the right panel. Interesting. This must be a fairly widespread issue. By comparison, you don’t see a feature like this for .DOC or .XLS files in MS Office...

Well, here you go. Prusa Slicer auto-repaired 779 errors which does not surprise me since their online file viewer made the item look OK: You can re-export an object from the slicer, so I did. Then imported it into TinkerCAD. It is fine now (in green): Now, I don’t want to setup a file fix...

I don’t know the root cause, but looked at the Printables item above. Looks great in their 3d viewer. Then I downloaded the STL and imported it into TinkerCAD. Check out the result: So. . . this file has some issues, but of course you already know that. I have seen similar inconsistencies...

I definitely want one! Have since the first mention. You might want to use my new combined file, as I upped the sides count as part of the refresh: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5195646/files

I’m pretty sure the group buy offer on the knobs was canceled due to excessive US shipping.

Hmmm. I own the 13 inch M4 Pro and have not had any issues. I do almost all of my daily computing on it and spend many hours every night in bed holding it just inches in front of my face. Just another anecdote, I suppose, and maybe I don’t have the same eye strain sensitivities as the next guy...

I am familiar with clear TPU. I had Wermy’s MintyPi hand-held arcade system (made to fit in an Altoids tin—it was pretty nifty) that you slipped into a clear TPU case. I am confident clear TPU comes in different hardnesses, but that slip case I had was flexible. It would not be my first choice...

I just printed and attached my desk scratch proof feet. Wow were they hard to attach. The fit is good, but angling a circle through a sharp metal hole was probably hanging up on burrs from my brim. I think I will modify my version to be just a tapered tube since it fits so tightly. I won’t...

I suppose we have now transformed this thread into a 3d printing discussion. . . but it will soon return to the clear case—I promise! Give this a try using the two-in-one file in my zip:

I used your link and uploaded the brim version of the post only. I could select FDM, PLA without any size limit warnings. It did suggest that I had “thin walls” which is obviously referring to the .25mm brim, but you can check a box to accept the risk of deformation. I even opened a chat with...

I wonder, what would happen if you had a built-in brim? I could easily add a thin “disc” to the part that you would just bend right off the edge once you receive it. That would make it bigger than 3x3 which might let you work past the warning. For the split post, you could either try the...

Interesting. I have never used one of these services, but I suppose you get good at them like anything else the more you use them. Also, I have not held a object printed in resin as far as I know. I had no idea they can be weak and that is a concern. That’s a good insight for this part. That...

Will JLC print the knob in resin? The only reason my model for the knob is two parts is to eliminate overhang issues for FDM, although a careful placement of supports might be fine. A resin knob would be ideal, but you’d want to use a combined knob-post version of the model. I just added that to...

Done. I should have considered not everyone who wants this would go through the slicing process themselves. This is a good reminder. I will try printing tomorrow. Once I get them fitted I will add another image to the printables item. As for separate STLs, this is trivially easy and pretty...

After watching the recent JDW video featuring the SE/30 color LCD conversion, I decided I needed the chassis feet that cover the metal and prevent desk scratches, (only in my case, MacEffects clear case scratches). Naturally, I will print the feet in clear filament, but then I noticed the...

For those planning to print a knob, I just updated the .STL file here. More than 3 years ago when I knocked this model together in TinkerCAD, the cone and cylinder shapes had a much lower maximum sides. Today you can bump up the sides to make things perfectly round at this scale. So, I...