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It's for comparing waveforms vs predetermined ones. If the current waveform does not conform, a signal can be sent as output. It's basically for running quality checks on production lines.

A tad of an overkill, I must admit... But it was there up for grab on Yahoo Auction, I was still living in Japan (meaning, as you know: you get what you see, perfectly packed and delivered with care), so, why not?:) And the shape factor is kind of familiar, too... :unsure:

I have poor experience with those miniaturized scopes: they work, but they are indeed tricky to use in practice. Besides, you may probably need at least 2 channels. So, on my end, not being a pro either, I eventually spent totally reasonable money (in the range of 120 USD) on a used, but still...

There’s a crack in the case of one capacitor (?) tucked between two transformers (?) and a big capacitor. Could be it was that, I need to desolder it. Now the Mac is back in the closet and there will remain for some time. I am planning to implement the stereo mod following your tutorial, I...

So, eventually, as I just didn't want to have another gut open Mac around, I reassembled it and... surprise, the issue is now gone. I have not modified anything, but could be that some cracked solder joints got somehow re-seated in the process. So, yeah, most likely it was the degauss...

Thanks for you support, I really appreciate it! Desoldering the whole connector has not been particularly difficult, even with a basic desoldering station like the one I have. I just wanted to avoid altering the board, so I figured out the least invasive solution possible. As for the current...

Thanks for the feedback and the support. DV11 is a diode, sure. At a closer inspection it seems to be labelled "BGF 1G G1". As for the pins 20 and 25, stupidly I did not document the process. However, please see in the picture how it looks from the back, underneath the metal cage. Both pins...

Below my take: I just desoldered and removed pins 20 and 25. It did work. Until today, when after many months and a intercontinental relocation in between, I restarted my Mystic for the first time. This time at 220V. A suspicious “pop” at the start up as the machine got energized and the...

I have recently spent some time for (successfully) reviving a dead NeXT LaserPrinter (Canon UX engine). Major takeaways: - almost all small size electrolytic capacitors were totally dead - PSU failure (in my case: a blown resistor) was the ultimate culprit - pick up rubber rollers were hardened...

Very interesting, thanks for sharing: it’s another confirmation that baking works better than desiccating. I have a 170 which initially had some very visible tunneling. I store it in a lightly vacuumed bag with some desiccating pouches. Progressively, over the time (mind: months), the tunnel...

I had fair success refurbishing non ejecting drives in my Cubes. The main issue is not in the elastic bands which become hard and slippery and ultimately loose, but in the similar issue affecting the ejection roller. After cleaning it thoroughly, lightly sanding off the hardened skin, I could...

At page 94 and 95 of Larry Pina’s book “Macintosh Repair and Update Secrets” you will find an overview of the flyback transformer part numbers. 157-026C was originally supplied for Mac Plus. From Mac Plus on, all OEM flyback transformers should have the bleeding resistor, but it is always...

Same here. Since it was new.

No, I don’t think so. Generally speaking, I prefer preservation to restoration, so if they get rusty I de-rust and re-use them.

It’s an interesting one, my experience is that sourcing exact spares for our beloved vintage stuff may turn really difficult. Generally speaking, it‘s a mixed bag of metric and imperial screws. At that size, hard to tell one from the other by naked eye, at least for me. So I just check and...

There are a couple of steps for which it is necessary to severe and isolate some traces. I managed to find some more elegant workaround. No rocket science, just some re-wiring from the back. Can’t share any pics now, though, but it is definitely possible.

I did the mod a few years ago, so I don’t quite remember the details by heart. I need to open the machine and compare side by side what I have vs what @JDW suggested. Surely, though, I wanted to have something reversible and non destructive, so I had to find workarounds for the trace cutting...

Yes, I have a Mystic, too. Sourcing a donor LC575 has been relatively easy in Japan. I actually made the VGA mod following your excellent tutorial, even though I am kind of proud I made the whole thing in a non-destructive, reversible way. I remember I choose the machine with the cleanest...

As far as I know, those magnetic bands are used for fine tuning the geometry of the frame. They seem to me typical factory sealed stuff not meant to be touched.

Proper degaussing is probably the first thing to test. In “another forum” it is reported that the CRT degaussing coil connector and / or thermistor may be at fault. Can’t further check on my machines, as I am now in the midst of a relocation.