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After 5 hours and only the initial coating in peroxide creme, nearly all of the yellowing is gone now. The one on the far right has some marbling from doing this process out in the sun a couple of years ago, will coat it again and give it another 5 hours. Recapped the 1.44Mb floppy from SE/30...

Got the 15L Vevor Ultrasonic cleaner today, huge improvement over the 10L model. Where the 10L model took nearly 3 hours to get to 65°C, the 15L model reached 65°C in an hour and 10 minutes, perhaps there was an issue with the 10L I received previously. The SE/30 board easily fit in the 15L...

You'll be fine, you sound cautious and that's enough to keep you above ground :). Pretty sure the discharge procedure of the CRT is covered in the first video, if not the Analog Board recap video is a good one to watch too. 800K floppy recap: Eject gear replacement: Analog board recao:

SE/30 #2 was really yellow, the bezel was worse than the bucket shown behind it. 8 hours of the 10W UV LED light in a box lined with foil and slathered in 12% Peroxide Creme worked really well once again; like new. I did remove the Apple logo for the process, had one bleach out on an SE...

But the CRT would still be loose in that corner, needed to keep that altogether.

I would do that with metal but plastic is easier to fix. I won't say the following is the best way to fix a stripped case thread but I can say this definitely worked for me. Take a small-medium size clip tie and cut two pieces of it as long as the screw threads are: If the case isn't badly...

Specifically I'm looking to fix the screw hole where the CRT is grounded to. My front case/bezel arrived with the CRT ground hole in a stripped condition and when that screw pops out, the ground wire lets loose and I get video distortion. I've heard baking soda and super glue works to repair...

It's not that UE8 bodge wire causing the weird screen distortion in the video above, I just tried SE/30 #2's LB and it's doing the exact same thing. Glad in a way no to have to rework the #1 LB. Will try an SE AB and CRT tomorrow. Thinking about getting this trimmer set for adjusting the...

I do have the green UV mask stuff, will put that on the spots I scraped, thanks! Here's my UE8 bodge wire from Pin 10, this goes to the via under UC8: Going to need to remove UE8 and get rid of that bodge, or use what's left of the existing trace instead, reason being it causes video...

The ultrasonic cleaning with the correct Elma TEC Clean A1, should've neutralized and removed any further corrosion. I already have a new V5 Reloaded board that I was going to use on this project, but will sell it to someone else who can use it. Thanks.

Thanks so much guys! An interesting thing to note about the fix, is that I checked the Data and Address Matrix's, multiple times, it seems to me that perhaps D(1) was just hanging on by a sliver, or a thread of conductivity and when I did the Ultrasonic cleaning, it blew out the remainder of...

SE/30 #1 logic board now works also!! Turns out my simasima problem was missing D(1) all along. I had replaced my CPU socket to aid in troubleshooting, went back over all of the pins today and noticed D(1) was missing from CPU to socket pin, touched up the pin, got continuity to FPU UI5 Pin 2...

It took the Vevor 10L Ultrasonic nearly 3 hours to heat the water to 65°C, had to bring the unit indoors because it was 65°F outside and seemed to contribute to the slow heating. Will return the 10L 180W model, and try their 15L 240W model instead, it's $2 more and should fit a logic board well...

On page 24 (PDF pg.27) of the Simasima Repair Guide it says a 10L Ultrasonic cleaner is the bare minimum to fit the SE/30 logic board. Picked up a Vevor 10L for $110. Pulled UK6 Video ROM chip, UK8 CPU and all the RAM and ROM SIMM. The LB doesn't exactly 'fit', need to tilt it and rest on...

Thanks to JDW once again for his excellent videos, he just saved me from myself by noting at the end of the video below, that the 1.44Mb has (2) different caps than the 800K SE floppy's. I had ordered the caps for an 800K drive, it had been a while and I forgot that SE/30 #2 came with...

Got through the recap of SE/30 #2's PSU and Analog Board today, will hot glue the caps when the new Noctua fan arrives: The fan will be here Sunday and this can go back together. The brightness knob has a sun spot on it, will treat it at the same time as the case and mouse/KB, with 12%...

Turns out my image I made of System 7.5.5 was no good for BlueSCSI. Tried a pre-built image of 6.0.8 in my SE with BlueSCSI and it worked, plugged 6.0.8 in to SE/30 #2 and it booted up so fast. Stoked! TechStep kept saying everything was fine with the SCSI system, I was even able to connect...

Received all of the new caps for SE/30 #2 today, recapped the LB. The Sound test passes and I do get a clean chime and sad mac but trying to run the Mac SE Tour floppy produces clicks and pops, not smooth sound. Floppy loads, but no BlueSCSI image, or HDD boot. Will go through the SCSI...

Update on SE/30 #1: New UD8 installed, problems remain. I have continuity and solid board traces everywhere but am now suspecting an IC/chip failure - somewhere. With the new SE/30 #2 components, I was able to verify 100% that my ROM and RAM are good. The strange thing is all of my wave forms...

Got SE/30 #2 today, did alright. The logic board gets all screen lines and has the flashing ?, even though the LB is entirely missing C12, one of the leaky 47µF caps and also the small C6 1µF leaky cap - no sound as a result. Was told it won't boot from HDD either but haven't tested it yet...