(2) Macintosh SE/30's - Full Restoration

[GreenBar0n]

Good effort. Just remember that any exposed copper needs lacquer applied to it to prevent from further damage.

You can use clear nail polish.

I do have the green UV mask stuff, will put that on the spots I scraped, thanks!


Here's my UE8 bodge wire from Pin 10, this goes to the via under UC8:

Going to need to remove UE8 and get rid of that bodge, or use what's left of the existing trace instead, reason being it causes video distortion, or a bulge where the active display occurs at the left and right borders:

The PO adjusted the picture to maximum size on the CRT, I don't have a trimmer tool that fits the SE/30 opening.

Can anyone recommend the best tool for adjusting the video trimmers on these Mac's?

 

[GreenBar0n]

It's not that UE8 bodge wire causing the weird screen distortion in the video above, I just tried SE/30 #2's LB and it's doing the exact same thing. Glad in a way no to have to rework the #1 LB.

Will try an SE AB and CRT tomorrow.

Thinking about getting this trimmer set for adjusting the picture, is there a better choice?


EDIT: Well, this is embarrassing, turns out the video distortion in the video above was caused by the ground strap wire that connects to the CRT screw in the case, the case/bezel hole is stripped and the screw and ground strap were just hanging there disconnected. Connected the ground and the picture is no longer doing that bulge trick. Picture perfect.

 

[GreenBar0n]

SE/30 #2 was really yellow, the bezel was worse than the bucket shown behind it. 8 hours of the 10W UV LED light in a box lined with foil and slathered in 12% Peroxide Creme worked really well once again; like new. I did remove the Apple logo for the process, had one bleach out on an SE previously, not taking any chances.

The video trimmer tool will be here tomorrow - hope it fits - then I can get the screen on SE/30 #1 adjusted back to factory spec.

SE/30 #2 on the left, has the new Noctua fan installed and is currently waiting for the 1.44Mb floppy caps and an eject gear; might get another BlueSCSI v2 for it and 3D print the rear access sled and then call these done. Will allow these recapped boards to burn in for a couple of hours tonight.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Got the 15L Vevor Ultrasonic cleaner today, huge improvement over the 10L model. Where the 10L model took nearly 3 hours to get to 65°C, the 15L model reached 65°C in an hour and 10 minutes, perhaps there was an issue with the 10L I received previously.

The SE/30 board easily fit in the 15L model and as a result I was able to use a single gallon of distilled water, with 5-10% Elma TEC Clean A1.

The board came out looking like new. Removed RAM, ROM, Video ROM and CPU for the process. 65°C for 10 minutes per side.

Used a hot air station at 212°F (lowest temp setting possible) and the fan on highest setting to remove the remaining water from under the sockets and chips. Will wait a full 24 hours for this to dry out and then test it tomorrow.

I currently have (2) SE's that were given to me - that started me down this path of restoring these - and (2) SE/30's that I purchased. I have keyboards and a mouse for all of them. Set out today to get the yellow off of the mouse's.

Covered in 12% peroxide creme.

Will let them sit under the UV LED for 5-8 hours, until they're Platinum color again, instead of yellowed/marbled.

 

[GreenBar0n]

After 5 hours and only the initial coating in peroxide creme, nearly all of the yellowing is gone now.

The one on the far right has some marbling from doing this process out in the sun a couple of years ago, will coat it again and give it another 5 hours.

Recapped the 1.44Mb floppy from SE/30 #2, lubed it with Molykote EM-30L and replaced the eject gear. Auto inject is having problems, it does two clicks instead of just one when the disk is inserted, need to go back over it and get it right, all other functions work well though.