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There’s your reminder that it’s not just maxells… that appears to be some aftermarket battery, I don’t recognize the brand as one Apple used, but you can see that it’s gone off just as bad.

A true mad-man!

$30 vs $50 for an assembled one. Yours is cheaper though.

Are the ones you got cheaper? I bought the SMD done option and soldered the rest myself and got a deal.

Someone call TDNC!

Ouch, that really stinks :( Also, I just have to give a massive thanks to you for your years of hard work and dedication on the TenFourFox and Classilla projects. You're a saint to this hobby!

Here's a better photo I found of the damage to the PC/AT post-cleanup. I still need to replace a couple chips and components before I can test it, but no obvious trace damage! Look at that case rust though!

Yeah, I've seen people warn against this in other places too, citing that it will cause the plastic to go even more brittle. The best method seems to be the one that keeps the plastic away from stress as much as possible, and while this one is easy, it doesn't seem to last long-term.

Unfortunately these are all old images that don't show the extent of the damage very well, but I have a couple. 1. Dell Latitude CS laptop from 1999. Damaged by a leaky 6-cell Varta battery (NiMH chemistry). Luckily not too far gone and it was still working at the time, although it can be...

Gosh, the damage in that thread was somehow even worse than anything in the 68kMLA thread on the topic, jeez! That one on Kai's poor SE board looks like it's about to burst!

I mean, you just can't predict these things when they're new. I don't really blame Maxell here even, as the rep said, they were fine during their expected life span, it was only in the late 200s when the ones from the early 90s began to blow. They had no way of checking what formula and build...

I just saw this on twitter and thought it was funny, felt like sharing it here. First, I saw this post from Garth Beagle showing that he somehow found a Maxell battery that still held charge, that's a new one! https://nitter.net/GarthBeagle/status/1581051668665274368#m Then, Maxell ended up...

47uf 16v - a very standard spec on these Mac boards. I wouldn't worry about matching a series, I'd even go tantalum if I were you. Matching the series matters with something extra-sensitive like a PSU or analog board, but not much on a motherboard with tiny values like these.

post a picture of the caps in question. You seem to have hit it on the nose though, M7 or whatever would be the series, first number down is the capacitance, second is the voltage. This is the case for just about every one of those trash cans.

No worries about the help, that's what these forums are for. You don't need to get yourself original discs off eBay, you can burn a copy yourself using a different system and some blank discs. Make sure you set the burn speed really low, or the discs may have trouble reading in the iMac's...

The model number should be part of the text that's going around the edge of the base. 800MHz means you may or may not be able to run Puma, later model 800MHz iMacs shipped with Jaguar, which performs better than Puma anyways. I'd recommend burning a set of Jaguar discs, hold C down to boot from...

First off, what model of iMac G4 do you have? Somewhere on the back of the bottom should be a model number starting with either M or A followed by 4 numbers. Post that here and I'll check what Operating Systems you can run on it. If you hold down the alt/option key on startup, it will pull up...

I've heard of that broken folder icon before, it just means you're system folder is damaged. Does your iMac officially support 10.1? No iMac G4 that officially supported Leopard also supported 10.1, although someone could have installed it anyway as it will run fine on an 800MHz system. Finally...

I fought through my PB 540’s tunnel vision and got a high score of 142 on Flappy Mac! Can anyone here score higher? @gruz