Search results

Just watch the video, didn't see the 1st time. It looks like your CRT just suddenly loses power. So you tried this logic board in a different SE/30 and you get the same issue? This definitely looks more like an issue on the analog board or power supply side. While it's in "crashed" state...

I see you're using 2-chip rom sticks. Remove those 4 2-chip sticks and try using the 8-chip sticks only. I know the Mac Plus has issues with the 2-chip sticks, I believe this compatibility issue extends to SE/30 as well. On the Mac Plus, you'll boot up fine, but after you try to start using...

I saw these recommended elsewhere so I also got them. However, the sticks are too tall for me! When I try to place the logic board back inside the steel chassis, a couple of the stick are too tall so I'm unable to put it back in. I'm only able to fit 4 of these on the lower bank, ending up...

I've reached out to Innovations earlier this week to check the price of a memory tester for testing 30-pin Mac SIMMs. To my surprise, I got a reply that they've permanently closing due to COVID. I've been having random issues with ram, and it's hard to tell if the Mac's are being too picky or...

You’re actually fine. Af first glance I thought you removed the adjustment screw when removing the head, but you didn’t actually touch it. You’re all good to go. Can you confirm if the cap fits on the metal pole?

Fortunately, all compact Macs (Plus, Classic, SE, etc) use the same CRT and they are interchangeable. I would suggest searching for a couple of these with battery leaks and use pull the CRT from them.

I'm pretty confident that the cap you found goes on at the end if the metal pole which guides the head up and down. It goes on the end of the pole which will face the front of the Mac. Your picture is missing that metal pole for some reason. Most drives actually don't have this cap, I've only...

Two of my Mac Plus's showed a lot of flickering when adjusting the brightness. I tried deoxit and it helped, but it didn't completely fix the issue. It's actually really simple to take apart and cleanup, and I would recommend anyone with a jittery knob to do so. Here's a writeup as I haven't...

I ran into a Macintosh Plus which when booted makes a continuous flup flup flup sound. This can occur if there's a voltage rail short on the logic board, floppy, or SCSI drive. The short can cause the hidden fuse inside the power harness that goes from the analog board to the logic board to...

Exactly! And you're not seeing that pattern. That kinda makes me thing it may not be the ram. You should look into what the pattern means for that first rom. For example, do we expect the pattern to appear even with a bad ram? If so, your issue may be elsewhere.

Here's the keyboard after fixing all the keys. All the keys have very satisfying clicks as you can hear in this video.

Just gives you an extra reason to pick one up now. This may help you narrow down if it's the ram or something else. I'll actually put in order a chip for myself right now so I also can go ahead and update my ROM as well. if you have a signal analyzer, you can also compare the output of the...

Your ram is made my Micron Technology (MT). Here and here, which have discussions on IIc ram failures, the same ram brand is present. Your board was made 36th week of '84. My IIc which is same board revision was made several week earlier in week 22nd of '84, and my ram is OKI, made in Japan...

Does it make the sound on boot? Perhaps a bad ram chip, I believe I’ve seen a video recently where someone mentioned that a specific brand of ram on these are prone to failure. It may help to post a high quality image of the board.

When taking apart your Apple IIc, you may want to check if the internal power converter has any leaking capacitors. This guide helps you though the process. Note not all power supplies on the IIc are the same. This is meant of the Astec AA7341B, Apple part 699-0230, shown in images below...

The keys on my Apple IIc A2S4000 keyboard were very stiff, to the point where some had to be pressed really hard to get a click. The other problem is the keys with a latch (ex. Caps Lock) get stuck. We'll go over how we can fix both of these issues. First, this fix only applies to the...

From article: In photo we do see he has a red-on-silver model. Then according to this he correctly has the yellow stripe ribbon. However, taking a look at my external MFD-51W-03 dated 8611, which also has a red-on-silver label, I have a red red strip ribbon! 🤷‍♂️

No need to post rom as no minor changes exist. they have the same 4D1EEAE1 checksum. I pulled the Old World Mac ROMs Mac Plus V2 ROM. split it into two files w/ low and high byte, and then ran a file compare with those against the ones I dumped. Bit for bit identical. Here is the final table...

I have a Japanese Mac Plus with a "Kanji" sticker on the ROM. I checked the part number, and indeed it's a different part number than the standard ROMs in the rest of the world. ROM Rev ROM-HI Part # ROM-LO Part # V1 342-0341-A 342-0342-A V2 342-0341-B 342-0342-A V3 342-0341-C...

@Drake What kind of DB15-HD15 adapter did you use to get this connected to a VGA input? Is it one of the ones with jumpers, if so did the jumper configuration modify the resolution output? I have the same Interware VDR-2A card and want to connect it to my OSSC. Interestingly, my comes with a...