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Yes, it was very strange! If I hadn't found that fourth one I probably would have assumed a much more serious hardware issue. The models of drives that didn't work are: - Seagate U Series 5 model ST320413A (20 GB) - pull from iMac G3 - WD Caviar WD1200JB-00CRA1 (120 GB) - pull from another G4...

Thanks! Yeah, this probably would have been a good next step had all the drives ended up failing as I do have the original AHT disk. Cheers

Interesting, yeah these HDDs are/were all era appropriate (pulled from various G3 and G4-based systems over the years). But anyways, I happened across a fourth drive that I had laying around ... figured "why not" and hooked it up ... and lo and behold, was able to get Leopard installed and...

Yes, booting from install media and that works fine. I also suspected it may be an SSD related issue, which is why I also tried it on several HDDs as well. Same result with those, which is why I'm stumped. Either way, would it also seem to you that it's a compatibility/software issue of some...

Greetings folks, I could use some help diagnosing some weird behavior I am getting on a new-to-me G4 MDD tower. It is a dual 1.25 GHz model. Problem: The machine turns on, chimes, and seems to work normally, but does not ever boot all the way to the desktop. The system always either (a)...

Yes, that is correct. If yours is suffering from a similar intermittent-power issue and you're better at soldering than me then maybe you could fix it! Luckily this board comes right out without removal of the mobo (although it does require near-total disassembly anyways). Cheers!

I'm inclined to think that it was something physically wrong with either the solder or maybe some other connection(s) somewhere on the board, as once you applied pressure at certain angles it did send power through and the computer worked fairly normally. But it was just not possible/realistic...

Some good news - got the new (used) DC power / sound board installed, and that took care of this issue. No longer have to apply sideways and/or vertical pressure to the input jack. Success! Link to the seller/listing I used for this part: https://www.ebay.com/itm/396093134707 "New" (top)...

Thanks for the tip - after reflowing the connections on both this MLCC and also on both sides of the power jack, the condition has improved some but a degree of wiggling/coercion is still required. Could just be my lackluster soldering skills and equipment. I've got a tested-working...

Thanks for the link. It seems that this person had problems more to do with sound and display, rather than with getting the power jack to make the connection. But it is also good to see some documentation regarding the construction of a new PRAM battery, anyways. The fact that it takes...

Howdy folks, I could use another set of eyes on this PBG3 power board issue: I recently picked up a PowerBook G3 that works but has a flaky power connection at the DC input jack. The power connector has to be pushed and held in HARD for the machine to get power; as long as it's held like this...

Documenting this very obscure issue - and the solution too - in case anyone else ever runs into a similar problem in the future: Earlier this year I did a full "restoration" on my Twentieth Anniversary Macintosh - I say "restoration" because the thing worked fine beforehand, but there was just...

As I believe is mentioned in the iiiDIY video linked above, and also on the Macintosh Museum site, the issue is caused by some combination of (a) the uncoated spade connectors installed on the subwoofer at the factory, and (b) the pin header connections on the Bose amplifier board. These...

The Novus 3-step polish is generally great for this. I've used it on numerous pieces from my collection with excellent results, including Power Mac G4s, iBook clamshells, my Cube, and this CRT. It's pretty easy to use; you just work your way through each of the three bottles until you achieve...

Very nice work. Thanks for the guide, going to keep this in mind for the future!

Success at last! Fourth time's the charm... Picked up one of the IDE-to-SATA adapter boards with the red PCB (StarTech brand), and that finally did the trick. Was able to get OS 8.5 restored from CD and then upgrade to 9.1 from there. It has been reliably booting from the SSD every time (and...

Thanks for testing all of this out, that is interesting. Coincidentally I ordered one of the red boards the other day so I'll try that out in the B&W and hopefully it'll work out. What models of iBook G3 and PowerBook G4 will you be installing those 2.5" IDE to mSATA adapters in? I've had...

OK, pulled out the B&W again and tried this. Unfortunately no dice this way, either. I connected the SSD device to the "outer" bus and the optical drive to the "inner" bus, and I just got a blank grey screen. No cursor or activity on the drives. I tried various configurations of this (both...

Referencing the two IDE buses that are next to each other (looking at the machine from the side with the door open), I used it on the one that the original HDD connected to on the left (with the short IDE cable) - is that the "inner" or "outer", I wonder? There were no jumper pins to configure...

Following up on this thread with some further developments: Someone else also suggested that I try an IDE-to-SATA solution for the G3 B&W, so I decided to give that a try. Ordered one along with an mSATA-to-SATA adapter housing and a 64GB mSATA drive. Put it into the G3, and ... it didn't...