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I did end up figuring out it was a 1000uf cap there. I think for the later revisions they wised up about that since they put a 470uf cap there but sideways so it fit much better. Also one that has a readable sleeve unlike that.

I'm in the process of repairing a TAM for someone and it seems like someone was in the subwoofer unit before myself and I'm concerned there may be a couple of cut wires. There's a very small gauge blue and pink wire (in addition to the larger gauge blue wire) that seems like it may have been...

Turns out I missed two spots. One happened to be where the adb ports were and the corresponding chips and one ram chip had some gunk around it. Alcohol and a brush later, it works. Hopefully this can at least guide someone who has a similar issue in the right direction in the future.

So I finally got a new logic board for my CC that was working but the caps were showing signs of starting to leak so I cleaned it up. It worked fine initially but when I first got into System 7 it immediately brought up the 'do you want to shut down' dialogue box. At first dismissing it made it...

Neither the faulty board or the one I have which is going in is the enhanced one. In fact, mine had a cache module on it. However after swapping boards it seems to be fine now. Depending on if I end up hanging on to the faulty one or not I might try a few theories I have about it, though it's...

No shorts between rails. Too many parts seem to be shorted to the 3.3v rail on their ground pin to make me believe its just leakage anyways. How do I tell the difference between the two boards?

Seeing as this board isn't mine (and I've already had to sink a lot of time into this 8600) it sounds like I'm going to simply be swapping in a known working board and ending up with a 9600 to replace my 8600 I'll be parting out. Seeing as I don't yet own a benchtop power supply I can't do a ton...

This board may very well be beyond hope without a schematic. I pulled up a datasheet for the 74f573 chips on the board (which I figured would be the easiest chips to find datasheets on and probe ground from) and sure enough there's still a direct short from the 3.3v pins on the power connector...

That's especially unfortunate as it turns out none of the caps were causing a short and I'm a bit at a loss as to what it can be. Unfortunately (though also thankfully) since the PSU has OCP I can't run it and see what gets hot to try and find a short. Both C369 and C372 have the same...

I tested I believe every single cap on that board including the tants. I'm going to be pulling those three today and checking since I ordered replacement tantalums. I'm hoping since c369 is exactly the resistance that I'm measuring from the power connector on the board that it's the main issue...

Bit of an update, I pulled the board out and tested all the non tantalum caps and c369 and c372 are shorted, c369 just so happens to be a 28 ohm short as i was measuring it. C452 seems a bit marginal as well. I'm going to say it's safe to assume at least the first two would be the issue here...

So I have a friend's 8600 in which I recapped the psu on. It was working fine as I was testing it until it locked up and crashed out of nowhere. At first it turned on with no video but then it acted like it was shorting out. So I pulled everything out of the motherboard including connectors, and...

UPDATE! It does in fact need 5v off the board. I finally got this thing to work. With how much info I gathered myself and from others and from (the very few) other pics I've found maybe I should do a bit of a write up about these since there's virtually no info about them, let alone how to mount...

I meant the clip that it clips onto the cpu itself and not the socket, my bad. But here's a couple of pics from the top and bottom, the top left of the bottom facing pic is pin one and I can't really get a good pic of the top of the other side, I feel like the two boards could come apart since...

Well, I did what I should have done (but forgot to) and did a little probing with my multimeter before plugging the springs in. They definitely are not both ground, one is though. One goes to pin 16 on the clip which is ground and unsurprisingly that is the one on the ground plane. Now, the...

So I finally managed to fix up my Radius 020 accelerator board with new caps and a new diode, however it seems now that installing it in causes it to display a checkerboard screen. Without it it works fine, I have recapped both the AB and the logic board and have seen no issues without it. The...

That is the one I have, yes

For the time being I would like to try and keep it original since there seems to be no heat damage nor signs of immanent failure, I might look into it for this and my Performa 630 in the future. The main thing I am after for at least the time being is a picture of the internals of one so I can...

Yet another update: I caved and bought a cheap LCR meter off Amazon and took that cap which is quite bulged on the bottom off and put it in my LCR meter, it reads about 1300uf which going off the 10% error roughly I notice on this meter I assume is supposed to be 1200uf or so? It doesn't look...

Another small update I found out and I'm glad I did a bit of testing is that the springs on the bottom are not both ground, one of them is but one of them seems to be for power. Does anyone have any idea of where those springs are supposed to go on the Plus board for when I get this recapped?