Color Classic Analog Board removal

[wottle]

Anyone else have extreme difficulty removing the Color Classic analog board after all cables have been removed. I watched @Branchus' video on the removal and his slides right out. Is it possible the edge connectors are fused somehow. I've used a good amount of force and cannot get it to budge.

Any tips / tricks / suggestions?

It looks like the plastic frame for the analog and logic boards might be able to be removed from the front of the case where the CRT is mounted, with two plastic tabs on each side, but I don't want to risk breaking the plastic if I can avoid it.

Anyway, would love to hear if anyone else has had this problem on a machine where the analog board had never been removed (I had to cut the silicon goo to remove the yoke board).

 

[wottle]

If anyone runs into this, I may have some suggestions that could help. I ended up removing the CRT, then disconnecting the plastic frame that holds the analog and logic boards from the front face of the case by depressing the two tabs on each side where it joins to the front of the case.

After doing so, I was still unable to remove the analog board, the metal plate it sits on would not move backward no matter what I did. However, I noticed the analog board itself was moving a bit. So what I ended up doing was undoing the two metal latches that hold the analog board to the metal tray is sits on. Then I was able to pull the analog board back a bit, then up (I had to pry outward on the plastic rails the analog board slides on to allow the analog board to go up. Ultimately, the analog board came up and out, but the metal tray was stuck in place.

With the analog board out of the way, I was able to see the problem. It appears the metal shielding that goes around the outside of the plastic frame has a bunch of tabs that go inward, and the metal tray seems like it should rest on top of the metal tabs. What had happened to mine was that the metal tray had gone over some of the tabs and under others. I think the friction of the metal tray on those tabs was locking the metal tray in place, preventing it from sliding back.

I think if I had tried to pry the metal shielding out from both sides (it was only stuck on the right, but I couldn't tell until I had it fully disassembled), it likely would have released and slid out easily.


After my recapping, I pushed down on the metal tabs on each side to try to ensure the the metal tray would not end up sliding under any of the, It slid back in (and back out) with ease.