Oh, wow! And only $2.79 too... That's really amazing. Thank you for convincing Console5 to add that kit!
I'm still filming my video on the CC Analog Board parts swap. Having to deal with some lifted pads right now. Not torn-off pads, just lifted. Not too surprising in light of how hot those areas got through the years. I'm also pondering the implications that raising the parts off the PCB will have. That better cools them, but it also puts more stress on the pads.
I tried the original gray-colored JB-Weld under one pad today. Takes 24 hours to cure. I'll then see what happens when I solder the component leg to it. If it holds, I'll probably add UV solder mast atop that to further keep it down.
I originally thought about heat-shrink tubing on the legs, especially to prevent shorting, because I am lifting the new components up and off the PCB. I soldered in my DL21 diode replacement that way. And I think that's fine because that part isn't too big and heavy. But the resistors are pretty massive. I then remembered that I have some transparent silicone tubing that I bought to repair the rollers on my Macintosh Portable's trackball. Silicone is pretty heat resistant and thicker than heat-shrink tubing, so I will try to add some of that tonight after work to see if it better supports those big replacement resistors. Ceramic stand-offs would work too, but I can't find those on Amazon and prices on Mouser are pretty crazy. So my Silicone tubing idea is probably best in the end. Again, my thinking here is to prevent a heavy component that sits on its legs from pushing out the pads on the solder side of the PCB over time.
I'm still filming my video on the CC Analog Board parts swap. Having to deal with some lifted pads right now. Not torn-off pads, just lifted. Not too surprising in light of how hot those areas got through the years. I'm also pondering the implications that raising the parts off the PCB will have. That better cools them, but it also puts more stress on the pads.
I tried the original gray-colored JB-Weld under one pad today. Takes 24 hours to cure. I'll then see what happens when I solder the component leg to it. If it holds, I'll probably add UV solder mast atop that to further keep it down.
I originally thought about heat-shrink tubing on the legs, especially to prevent shorting, because I am lifting the new components up and off the PCB. I soldered in my DL21 diode replacement that way. And I think that's fine because that part isn't too big and heavy. But the resistors are pretty massive. I then remembered that I have some transparent silicone tubing that I bought to repair the rollers on my Macintosh Portable's trackball. Silicone is pretty heat resistant and thicker than heat-shrink tubing, so I will try to add some of that tonight after work to see if it better supports those big replacement resistors. Ceramic stand-offs would work too, but I can't find those on Amazon and prices on Mouser are pretty crazy. So my Silicone tubing idea is probably best in the end. Again, my thinking here is to prevent a heavy component that sits on its legs from pushing out the pads on the solder side of the PCB over time.