MacEffects Appreciation Post

[JDW]

...I am awaiting my BlueSCSI 2, then I will need to print a mount for it

I have a BlueSCSI v1 mounted directly to the motherboard SCSI connector via the nifty SCSI Rider Type-A by @Kay K.M.Mods . What I love about SCSI Rider Type-A is it doesn't block anything! Putting a BSv1 or BSv2 on a 3D printed mount at the back of the slot on the SE or SE/30 creates issues on some machines.

I've been evaluating a 3D printed mount for use with one of those SD card "extenders" so I can easily insert and remove the SD card with the Mac's back housing in place.

 

[caver01]

creates issues

Yeah, I get that. I don’t have any other expansion add-ons or riser cards and such. There was a time I was hoping to find an ethernet adapter (we all were, right?) but now there’s no need. There was PiSCSI, but with the BlueSCSI2‘s wifi I am set. I don’t plan to invest in acceleration or rare video, so I am feeling good about using the expansion port area. Wottle’s crystal clear mount sure looks nice.

 

[wottle]

Hey, nice! Yeah, supports in there won’t matter at all. I will say that the only reason I designed it in two parts was to avoid dealing with the supports, but that looks just fine. You’ll have to trim off the brim, but I bet both will work great!

For my project, I am awaiting my BlueSCSI 2, then I will need to print a mount for it—probably gonna use Wottle’s or a modified version of it.

I have been second-guessing a flush mount out the back of the expansion area. I always liked PotatoFi’s mount which put the SD card out the back, but it was hard to reach in there and get a micro SD, so I had made my own version which puts the slot flush with the card sticking out. HOWEVER, at least with the V1 of BlueSCSI, the protruding micro SD card was somewhat fragile, especially if you pack up the system. It’s easy to snap that little card right in half, and I had a card pull itself out in my trunk next to another SE a couple years ago.

I suppose I won’t be moving the clear case around too much, and a regular SD card (adapter in my case) won’t be as fragile, but it might also be easier to grab. I need it in hand to see what I wanna do I guess.

The full size SD card for the BlueSCSI v2 is much easier to retrieve. Also, I use a microSD card and an adapter, so if something were to put pressure on it and have it break, hopefully it would be the adapter and not the card itself. I’ve broken 2 microSD cards trying to get them out of the old BlueSCSI v1s.

The clear adapter I used extends out makes it very easy to get the full sized SD card in and out. It also has a nice opening that allows for insertion without having to turn the machine around. I’d recommend removing the card If the machine was going to be transported somewhere where it could end up bumping things with its back.

 

[caver01]

Thanks for the follow up. That’s the kind of hands-on report I needed. I am going to take a look at the model now to see if the holes are good for my threaded inserts and maybe add the four screw holder holes that PotatoFi has on his model. This is just a really convenient place to store the HDD mounting screws if you ever need them again for a future device. As I will be printing mine in clear filament, I will also look for any overhangs that might be worth dealing with.

I just soldered my BS2 kit. It looks nice and solid. Even though I have used V1, I want to take a peek at the docs to see if should do anything special with LEDs. I see there are solder jumper pads for brightness which is pretty awesome.

 

[Garrett]

I want to take a peek at the docs to see if should do anything special with LEDs. I see there are solder jumper pads for brightness which is pretty awesome.

If I am installing a new LED, I don't bridge the jumpers. If I'm using the amber LED original to the Mac, I'll bridge JP2. JP1 won't be bright enough.

 

[caver01]

@wottle How well does the back panel fit over your crystal clear BlueSCSI2 mounting bracket? I am comparing the amount it protrudes into the expansion port area and it is almost double the version I have installed in my SE/30 today which sits flush. I have not assembled my MacEffects case yet, so maybe it is thicker, but does yours

 

[wottle]

@wottle How well does the back panel fit over your crystal clear BlueSCSI2 mounting bracket? I am comparing the amount it protrudes into the expansion port area and it is almost double the version I have installed in my SE/30 today which sits flush. I have not assembled my MacEffects case yet, so maybe it is thicker, but does yours

The firm’s very nice. I’m not home right now but I feel like the extruding part is nearly flush with the back of the case.

 

[caver01]

That‘s excellent. Thanks for sharing those photos. . . Wow that clear resin version looks really nice. I know you commented on it having a little texture, but this looks way better than mine will look. You can see the PCB right against the “window”.

I am printing my bracket now using your model. Much appreciated. I did split it into three pieces instead of just two to avoid overhangs.

 

[wottle]

That‘s excellent. Thanks for sharing those photos. . . Wow that clear resin version looks really nice. I know you commented on it having a little texture, but this looks way better than mine will look. You can see the PCB right against the “window”.

I am printing my bracket now using your model. Much appreciated. I did split it into three pieces instead of just two to avoid overhangs.

Yeah, my model was more optimized for the resin printing I was planning to do, so it is probably not as good for FDM printers. I also found this model, which looks like it may be better suited for FDM printing. Also, with its thinner outer wall, I wonder if it would look better with the clear resin print. I can't tell which version of the BlueSCSI v2 it was built for, so my guess is I'd need to create a version with different mount locations.

I do really like the one I made, so it's not worth it for me to re-print a new mount, but I may see if I can update that print for others that might want to do the same. The cost savings appear to be significant. The one I posted cost ~$15 to print in clear resin, the model linked above only costs ~$6 to print in clear resin. If anyone is interested, let me know and I can try to update the above linked model to have the proper screw mount locations for 2023.10a version of the BlueSCSI v2.

 

[caver01]

I can try to update the above linked model to have the proper screw mount locations for 2023.10a version of the BlueSCSI v2

I took a peek at the model you just linked. Let’s call it the jonschwenn model. It definitely looks to have been designed with FDM printing in mind. However, I see a few issues when I pulled it into TinkerCAD alongside yours. . .

The PCB mounting holes would need to be adjusted as you mentioned, but when I lined up the expansion port screw holes, they are not even close. I don’t know how this could have fit an SE chassis at all. I just printed yours and it lined up perfectly.

Also, the jonschwenn model has some missing solids. It appears to be modeled with walls first, then a solid block near the chassis mount holes, but the blocks are missing upon import into TinkerCAD. It’s another example of STL file breakdown. Maybe it’s an easy import/fix/export from Prusa slicer, but the dimensions of those chassis mount holes are a concern.

On the plus side, I do like that has no overhangs and should print without supports. There is the bridge over the SD card slot, but a bridge that size should be fine. I also especially like the thin wall facing the back. This will have better transparency with T-Glase or other clear FDM filaments, as it minimizes the number of layer/perimeters that obscure the light.

I might play with this since I can print another bracket without much issue. The changes I would make:
1. Fix the mounting holes for the chassis. It just seems out of proportion and needs to be wider.
2. Fix the mounting holes for the latest BlueSCSI PCB. It probably only needs one hole in the middle since the board is already captured side to side.
3. Add a top surface over the SD card slot using 45-degree from the back edge. This will give it a little more back to front depth along the back face so that you don’t end up with a gap along that top edge.

 

[Dave928]

PCBWay parts arrived. I really, really like how they turned out.

the parts at the back are for my G3 tower.