MacEffects Clear Macintosh SE Programmer's Switch

[BFEXTU]

I needed a programmer's switch for my Macintosh SE/SpeedCard and looked around for a vintage one, but ended up getting a new MacEffects Clear Programmer's Switch.

I decided against using a vintage switch because, even when they were new, they were somewhat brittle and lost clips under mild strain (albeit often because of mishandling...but..). Now, that the plastic has aged, it is potentially even more of a liability. Also, the vintage switches are significantly overpriced. So, why pay more for old, fragile part with polymer degradation just for the sake of appearance? No thanks. I need one that is strong, functional, reliable and that will stand up to regular use.

Attached are some pictures of the @MacEffects clear SE switch - it looks good, seems well-made and works great! There was a slight tolerance issue between the switch prongs and the gaps in the MacSE's lower ventilation slots - both switch prongs got stuck/wedged in the gap when pressing the buttons. To fix this issue, I lightly sanded the related SE case openings (on ventilation slots #5 and #8 - counting from the back edge). I removed a couple mils of material on either side and that fixed the tolerance problem. I am happy to have slightly thicker (stronger) prongs and the minimal case sanding is an imperceptible change. The reset switch snapped perfectly into place.

See the attached pictures.

Anyway - I recommend this product, albeit with the (reasonable) caveat of required case sanding to very slightly enlarge the ventilation slots. Now, I can successfully disable my SpeedCard!

MacEffects ships First Class in the US (cheapest), so the cost was $15 + $5.38 shipping. Also, their customer service was very responsive and helpful!

 

[retr01]

Excellent write-up, @BFEXTU!

I have bent one of the prongs of a programmer's switch for my SE/30. So, I am wondering about the strength of the prongs. Since the programmer's switch from MacEffects is made of polycarbonate, do those prongs seem more sturdy and robust when inserted? Do you feel less concerned about bending the prongs if you inserted the vents in the wrong slots and pressed them against the chassis frame?

 

[BFEXTU]

Apple's switch design was kooky, weak, expedient and prone to user-induced failure based on design and materials, tempered by the fact that most users didn't open their cases (or use the switch in the first place). So, the scenarios that led to failure were behaviorally-limited (and may be more common now in the retro space).

My new clear switch seems great, as above, the prongs are fine and I am happy with it. I am not concerned about bending the prongs.

Back in the day, the primary sources of damage to the switch prongs and clips were from:

1. People yanking open the case without first removing the programmer's switch. I don't do that and was conditioned long ago to always check for a programmer's switch on SE & SE/30 models, etc. (since I started in a dealership and also did some early Mac service -- pre-engineering career). Anyway, don't pull the case open without first removing the switch to avoid that point of failure.

2. People removing the switch incorrectly and not realizing that it has clips under the upper edge that require rotating the switch upward and then pulling downward to remove it. They often break off the little clip prongs by trying to pry off the switch from the top (or they failed to lift from the bottom). So...don't do that and don't be aggressive with the switch. Small moves.

3. Incorrect insertion/installation or other tolerance/use issues. All I can say on this point is that, if not sure, look at pictures (see my pictures above) before installing the switch, install from the top edge first and then rotate the switch downward. If it seems very tight when you press the buttons slightly and you are sure it is installed correctly, then there is a tolerance issue that requires remediation (slightly sanding the 2 specific vent openings as in my original post). You always insert the switch with 1 fully open vent slot at the back edge. The other clue is that the vent slots where the prongs go are slightly taller than the other slots -- slots 6 & 7 counting from the back edge. Again, see the pics in my original post.

I don't see any issues so far with the MacEffects switch, assuming proper installation, tolerancing and care when opening the case. And, as above, I think that it is nonsense to charge $20+ (not including tax and shipping) for a crappy old vintage switch on the basis of cosmetics for something may be more likely to break. If you are going to be opening the case with any frequency, get a new switch instead. A vintage switch may be fine once installed and assuming no prong-bending, etc., but it's definitely not my preference.

Also, as a repair trick. If you do happen to have an original switch that has bent prongs and you need to fix them, DO NOT try to bend them back. They will break off or, at best, be severely weakened. The best way to fix a boogered SE switch is to CAREFUJLLY use a focused heat gun to soften the base of the prongs very slightly so that you can gently reposition/coax them a little bit at a time without fatiguing the plastic. DO NOT OVERHEAT! If you are careful, you will find that this technique is very effective and can save/restore a switch with very bent/deflected prongs (even beyond 45 degrees). If the switch is already fatigued, you may also be able to use slightly greater heat to eliminate some or all of the fatigue (but it requires greater softening and is a fine line between fix/fail).

Good luck!

 

[AvadonDragon]

It isn't nearly as cool as the MacEffects version but I modeled a 3d printable version several years ago. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2579509

 

[retr01]

This is the stock programmer's switch from Apple for the SE and SE/30 that one of the prongs bent as I was talking about.

 

[Andy]

I have one that is bent in the exact same way. One is straight, the other bent. Was thinking about heating it up and gently bending it back. Or, if it snaps off, using epoxy to reattach in the right position.

 

[BFEXTU]

You should be able to fix that issue with a heat gun. The prong will probably survive if you are careful. @retr01 's switch already shows the tell-tale plastic-fatigue-of-death stress highlights. Heating should allow you to address/reverse the fatigue.

 

[Paralel]

You should be able to fix that issue with a heat gun. The prong will probably survive if you are careful. @retr01 's switch already shows the tell-tale plastic-fatigue-of-death stress highlights. Heating should allow you to address/reverse the fatigue.

Heating reverses the fatigue? To my knowledge, with this type of plastic, when heat is applied, after it cools, down, it becomes that much more brittle.

 

[retr01]

Better to replace in this situation. 3D print it or buy another one.

The one from MacEffects is a great replacement!

 

[BFEXTU]

Heating reverses the fatigue? To my knowledge, with this type of plastic, when heat is applied, after it cools, down, it becomes that much more brittle.

Yes - as far as I can tell without destructive testing. I was able to fix and straighten mine using the above-described method, the fatigue appeared to be improved and the white/light crazing was gone. At any rate, the fatigue was not worse and the switch works after severe bending. I heated it to the point of softening/sweating and pressed lightly down and to the side. Maybe I almost went too far with the heat, but backed off in the nick of time.

I can check it next week when I return and will post a picture of how it looks now. Further, if you are getting a new one, there is nothing to lose, because it is not usable the way it is now. If you're afraid, send it to me and I'll do it.

 

[BFEXTU]

** SORRY - I GRABBED THE WRONG SWITCH - I HAVE TO LOOK AGAIN - WATCH THIS SPACE FOR AN UPDATE - I WILL ADD NEW PICS **

@Paralel @retr01 @Andy - I am home now. Attached below are the pictures of my SE Programmer's Switch after repairing it using the above-described heat gun method. Both prongs were bent at about 45 degrees towards the base and showed pre-fracture white crazing on the outer angles.


I have also included a video that shows the strength of the prongs while testing the ends with a spring/flick test. Both prongs demonstrate springy durability and make an audible plastic "ping" as you would expect, indicating that they appear to have expected strength/durability (maybe as good as new).

In the pictures, you will notice that there are some shiny surfaces on the back of the switch and perhaps very slight darkening on the prongs that appeared during heating. I almost overdid it. . But, upon heating, all the white crazing vanished.

Anyway, the heat gun method I describe above worked fine on my switch, fixed the problem and resulted in prongs that appear to be as strong as an unmodified switch.

The take-aways are: NEVER try to bend the prongs back without using heat, and if/when you do use heat, you should be able to fix the prongs if you are careful without having any subsequent issues with prong weakness.

One other comment: It may help to use tweezers or small pliers, since the plastic gets hot (out of necessity). I think you will see some related tool marks in my pictures above when the plastic was hot/slightly softened.

With the clear MacEffects switch, I now have 2 SEs and 2 good Programmer's Switches, a SpeedCard and a ProdigySE. Making progress!

 

[Andy]

Very nicely done! I think i will be trying this method myself.

 

[BFEXTU]

Ah - crap - it's the wrong part. I grabbed it, did all that work and just realized that it is a IIfx one, I think.

 

[retr01]

I am looking forward to pics of the right switch. But even with the IIfx switch, it is similar, right?

 

[Paralel]

I am looking forward to pics of the right switch. But even with the IIfx switch, it is similar, right?

I would imagine so. I am impressed at the polymers self-repairing capability regarding the previous stress damage. I never would have guessed this particular polymer was so forgiving, considering all the trouble we routinely have with various plastics involving macs.

This makes me wonder if a thermal heat treatment might be what is needed for various brittle plastics that are encountered in various settings. Can providing heat to the polymer undo what is causing the embrittlement in the first place? Unfortunately I am not well versed enough in material science to be able to say one way or the other. It seems like this is one type of scientist we desperately need in the Mac community, a material scientist. I think someone with a materials background could provide valuable insight on many of the issues we counter with various aged polymers.