Powerbook 180c battery refurbish

iantm

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How feasible is it to replace the NiCd cells in a 180c battery and use it safely?

I would like to pick up a 180c… I think it's been restored in every other respect as much as possible (recapped logic/display, though original screen do probably dim)but it only has merit if I can actually use it on a battery.
 

BajaTym

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How feasible is it to replace the NiCd cells in a 180c battery and use it safely?

I would like to pick up a 180c… I think it's been restored in every other respect as much as possible (recapped logic/display, though original screen do probably dim)but it only has merit if I can actually use it on a battery.
Very, IMO. I'm in the process myself. The most difficult part is paying the cash for the new cells ($$$)... for me, they're expensive!!
 

iantm

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I’m printing out some cases for 170 batteries for someone to build for me. Just got some power grey today (this was a test in deep space blue)
 

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BajaTym

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I’m printing out some cases for 170 batteries for someone to build for me. Just got some power grey today (this was a test in deep space blue)

I also considered 3D printing a new casing, but decided to disassemble and use an M5654 battery instead. IMO, the M5654 case is preferable over the M5653 as the terminals are simplified and easier to cut through. Of course the M5653 terminals can be simplified. I'm currently on the hunt for an affordable location to buy the replacement cells... but I'll save that for a later thread, I don't want to hijack yours. In fact, I'll probably do a thread of my own when I've finished everything.

Here are some photos of both casing, for reference.

Hope you share your full battery build.

(y)


M5654 Battery:

IMG_2140.png
IMG_2141.png



M5653 Battery:

IMG_2143.png
IMG_2144.png
 

iantm

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Will do! Would be interested in seeing how the OG case rebuilds go too. I heard it was somewhat difficult to crack them open and I have a printer so I decided to try that first.

I might try adding some of those supplementary supports inside once I get the cells from the builder (I'm not doing that part, yet).
 
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BajaTym

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Will do! Would be interested in seeing how the OG case rebuilds go too. I heard it was somewhat difficult to crack them open and I have a printer so I decided to try that first.

I might try adding some of those supplementary supports inside once I get the cells from the builder (I'm not doing that part, yet).

Yeah, opening them is definitely a pain. As I'm sure you know, the top and bottom halves are sonic-welded together, so there really isn’t any way to just pop them apart cleanly.

For mine, I used a fine X-Acto blade and just worked my way around the perimeter very slowly. I probably made 40 to 50+ passes before I finally got all the way through and the two halves separated. I do a lot of fine-scale modeling and prop replication, so I’ve had plenty of practice making cuts like this without completely butchering the plastic... which is very easy to do.

I still have to decide how I’m going to put the two halves back together (screw, clips, etc.), but that’s a problem for another day. For now, I’ve still got plenty of computer work to do.

I also have a few 3D printers and considered printing replacements. I may, eventually, model one up and give that a try, but for now I’m sticking with the originals whenever possible.
 

iantm

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A member claimed with a new cells he was getting 10-14 hours of real usage on a 170 with a RAM system disk. That's bonkers. We'll see if that holds up… meanwhile though if I can even get a couple of hours that would be fantastic.

On a different note, have you ever considered swapping in an LED for the CCFL? I think I'm going to try.
 
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BajaTym

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A member claimed with a new cells he was getting 10-14 hours of real usage on a 170 with a RAM system disk. That's bonkers. We'll see if that holds up… meanwhile though if I can even get a couple of hours that would be fantastic.

On a different note, have you ever considered swapping in an LED for the CCFL? I think I'm going to try.
Dang, that's some serious battery-life!

Regarding the CCFL, I've looked, but not much beyond that. It looks promising.
 

iantm

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Turns out the printing requires a bit of finesse. Printing flat on the bed make the cover attachment track unusable on my printer so I’m trying an alternative orientation with supports.

the door model I found has some geometry I wanted to tweak as well for stronger track runners.
 

BajaTym

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Turns out the printing requires a bit of finesse. Printing flat on the bed make the cover attachment track unusable on my printer so I’m trying an alternative orientation with supports.

the door model I found has some geometry I wanted to tweak as well for stronger track runners.

Interesting, how do you mean? Are you referring to the exterior and interior details?

I’ve been 3D modeling for over a decade. If you’d like, I’d be happy to take a look at the model and see if there’s anything I can help with. Absolutely no pressure; I just enjoy this kind of stuff and figured I’d offer.

Are you using an FDM or SLA?

For me, the texture will be the most difficult to duplicate accurately.

IMG_2153.png
IMG_2154.png
 

iantm

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I'm printing PLA which, now that you say it, is probably not the best material long term, but it's what I have for the moment.

The model I am using is from Printables. I'm noticing the model is slightly different than the real thing.

This is the clip. I was trying to model the interior clips as skewed rectangles.

Just noticed, however, that RonsComputerVideos made a version. It looks better already — definitely looks like it was scanned or used photogrammetry.

I'm definitely not skilled at this. I was going to try and learn something like Fusion360 at some point, because tinkercad and Bambu Lab are limited in what they can do, still I thought I could try and ge tit to be good enough. Personally I care mostly if it's functional, not whether or not the textures are right, not that it wouldn't be grand if it did.

It'd be great if you wanted to try and tweak the model!


1790549131820.png
 
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iantm

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Ah, success. Printing with the sliding wedge face down or up required some supports but it printed much better. I can use the OEM door and it works perfectly. The printed door lock is a bit weak on the joint and they snap off. I’m hoping that Ron’s version is stronger. (Printing that now)
 

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BajaTym

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I use a combination of Illustrator and Fusion. Here's a rough model of the door.

Screenshot 2026-09-28 at 1.32.26 PM.png


If you're printing it with FDM, I'd recommend splitting the cover in half and then gluing the two pieces together like this. It should make the print a lot cleaner and easier to manage.

Screenshot 2026-09-28 at 3.44.29 PM.png
Screenshot 2026-09-28 at 3.44.21 PM.png
 

iantm

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I can definitely do that. Looks great. My 0.2mm print wasn't turning out great with Ron's model. Will you share it on printables or here?