Se/30 c6 cap lead lifted
- Thread starter iantm
- Start date
Seems the two pads are shorted together with solder, which needs to be rectified...
I can also see the tiny trace to which the pad sitting directly below the white + connects.
I've had one instance on an SE/30 board where I need to do a fix, but the trace leading to the pad was thicker. What I did was scrape off the green UV solder mask for 1cm of length on the trace leading to the pad. I then cleaned under the pad with 100% IP and used a microscope to flick away any debris, using an Razor blade knife. I left it 24 hours to ensure it was bone dry before doing the next step, which was to use a teensy tiny bit of 24-hour JB-Weld (the original stuff) to glue down the pad in its original location. Then I applied solder to the 1cm of trace length and reconnected the pad with solder. The cap I soldered onto that was short enough to where I could confirm the pad was still soldered to the trace.
But!
Your trace is super thin, so I cannot guarantee my technique would work.
@Branchus has a lot of experience rebuilding pads using very thin wire, and I think @Mac84 too, but I myself have never tried that, so maybe either of them could chime in with their recommendations.
I can also see the tiny trace to which the pad sitting directly below the white + connects.
I've had one instance on an SE/30 board where I need to do a fix, but the trace leading to the pad was thicker. What I did was scrape off the green UV solder mask for 1cm of length on the trace leading to the pad. I then cleaned under the pad with 100% IP and used a microscope to flick away any debris, using an Razor blade knife. I left it 24 hours to ensure it was bone dry before doing the next step, which was to use a teensy tiny bit of 24-hour JB-Weld (the original stuff) to glue down the pad in its original location. Then I applied solder to the 1cm of trace length and reconnected the pad with solder. The cap I soldered onto that was short enough to where I could confirm the pad was still soldered to the trace.
But!
Your trace is super thin, so I cannot guarantee my technique would work.
@Branchus has a lot of experience rebuilding pads using very thin wire, and I think @Mac84 too, but I myself have never tried that, so maybe either of them could chime in with their recommendations.
From what I could glean from 68kmla it’s “just” a mono sound connection. So if I can fix it by attaching the negative side of the cap to something on U11 (pin 7, apparently?) maybe it will work.
Sorry, but which side is lifted? I had thought the + side was lifted and based my previous post on that assumption. You are speaking about the Negative side now, but is that side lifted? Or are both pads lifted? The photo doesn't make it clear. Because if it's only the NEGATIVE side lifted, you can follow my advice because that pad is thick enough, and you've got a thru-hole right there too.
I think it’s only the positive side? That’s how interpret the symbol on the board.
My continuity meter registers something from the pad to the tiny trace.
if it as all possible to tack that pad back down once I somehow free it from the glob of solder stuck to it, I can try.
I found this post about the same cap on 68kmla. At least I’m not the fist to sever the same lead.
SE/30 recap with lifted pad
Hi, My SE/30 started to show the "simasimac" lines last week. It displayed them for 6-8 minutes after which it gave the beep and started up normally. Reading about this told me that it was time for a re-cap. so i recapped my SE/30 today after receiving a recap-kit yesterday. It was somewhat...
68kmla.org
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Thank you for the crystal clear photo of C6, showing solder removed and the Positive (+) side pad missing...
To follow MY advice, you would need to retain the removed pad, then try to clean out that black area under the pad with the tip of a razor blade like I did. The aim is to remove debris AND to provide a little depth below the pad where the JB weld will need to go to secure to the broken-off pad to the PCB. If you don't clear the blackened area as I just said, then if you apply a teensy tiny bit of JB Weld to glue-down the pad, that pad will sit raised up above the other pad. Maybe not a big deal, but it was to me, so that's how I did it.
But that super thin trace is the issue. Even if you clean off the green solder mask, there's not much trace-width for solder to stick. So you may need to run a thin galvanized (insulated) wire from that pad (after you glue it down) to wherever that super thin trace leads to. Then you are assured a good connection.
But again, Mac84 and Bruce may have their own way to replace the pad entirely using wire alone. I've seen Bruce do that in a video. I've never done it myself.
To follow MY advice, you would need to retain the removed pad, then try to clean out that black area under the pad with the tip of a razor blade like I did. The aim is to remove debris AND to provide a little depth below the pad where the JB weld will need to go to secure to the broken-off pad to the PCB. If you don't clear the blackened area as I just said, then if you apply a teensy tiny bit of JB Weld to glue-down the pad, that pad will sit raised up above the other pad. Maybe not a big deal, but it was to me, so that's how I did it.
But that super thin trace is the issue. Even if you clean off the green solder mask, there's not much trace-width for solder to stick. So you may need to run a thin galvanized (insulated) wire from that pad (after you glue it down) to wherever that super thin trace leads to. Then you are assured a good connection.
But again, Mac84 and Bruce may have their own way to replace the pad entirely using wire alone. I've seen Bruce do that in a video. I've never done it myself.
Makes sense to me. Dig a little trench for the pad then tack it down. Then either try and expose the trace or wire it to the U11. I’ve gathered the c6 is connected to the Sony sound chip. I found this diagram from recapamac points pretty clearly to the pin on the upper left (thank goodness for all this stuff being out there)
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