TLDR: I need a replacement TDA1170 chip — where do you all recommend getting one?
I see some on eBay ($15-$20 if I include shipping…) and I see one on Amazon ($15 or so)… I’ll pay said prices if needed but wanted to ask here first.
I see both the STMicro branded ones and an SGS brand on ebay. Anyone ever try the SGS?
FULL STORY:
I recapped the logic AND analog boards on my compact macs (SE, SE/30, and Plus) one to two years ago.
Randomly this week, my SE/30’s screen shrunk to a horizontal line.
I swapped the analog boards between the SE and my SE/30 (same board so wtf let’s see if it’s a logic board or analog board problem) — Result: Something wrong on the SE/30’s analog board! ((i.e. it worked fine with the SE’s analog board swapped in)...
OK — since the SE/30’s analogue board has been recapped and was working fine for over a year, I figured it prob. wasn’t a cap issue, and since the problem followed the analog board — this leaves only the TDA1170N chip (PCB chip label U2).
SO I FIGURED: What the heck! Let’s swap TDA1170 chips from the working analog board to the non-working (and vice versa) and see if the problem follows the chip. Sure enough, the problem was solved on my ‘bad’ board when I put the ‘good’ board’s TDA1170 chip onto the bad board. (And vice versa).
Pro-Tips / Learnings:
I see some on eBay ($15-$20 if I include shipping…) and I see one on Amazon ($15 or so)… I’ll pay said prices if needed but wanted to ask here first.
I see both the STMicro branded ones and an SGS brand on ebay. Anyone ever try the SGS?
FULL STORY:
I recapped the logic AND analog boards on my compact macs (SE, SE/30, and Plus) one to two years ago.
Randomly this week, my SE/30’s screen shrunk to a horizontal line.
I swapped the analog boards between the SE and my SE/30 (same board so wtf let’s see if it’s a logic board or analog board problem) — Result: Something wrong on the SE/30’s analog board! ((i.e. it worked fine with the SE’s analog board swapped in)...
OK — since the SE/30’s analogue board has been recapped and was working fine for over a year, I figured it prob. wasn’t a cap issue, and since the problem followed the analog board — this leaves only the TDA1170N chip (PCB chip label U2).
SO I FIGURED: What the heck! Let’s swap TDA1170 chips from the working analog board to the non-working (and vice versa) and see if the problem follows the chip. Sure enough, the problem was solved on my ‘bad’ board when I put the ‘good’ board’s TDA1170 chip onto the bad board. (And vice versa).
Pro-Tips / Learnings:
- TDA1170 Datasheet for reference
- Macintosh SE (same as SE/30) analog board wiring schematic for reference — note that Pin 6 on the TDA1170 chip is unused
- TDA1170 removal tips:
- De-solder all of the 12 pins using you fav. method (I used a wick and a hot iron)
- For the big tabs on the IC, wick up what you can, then use a soldering hot air gun to, one-at-a-time, heat up the tab while sturdily pulling on the big metal “U” shaped tab on the other side of the board (use a small screwdriver or other tool or you’ll burn your fingers
- Repeat for the 2nd tab, and have a plan for when that sucker comes out as you’ll have a heavy burning-hot metal U-shaped tab to deal with. I ust used the same pick I used to apply pressure in step 3.2 to hold it
- TDA1170 re-placement tips:
- Clean up those big fat tabs after you’ve removed it so that they’re nice and clean and can again sit flush on the board,
- Before you start soldering, make sure you have at least a little bit of each of the 12 pins poking through, if not, you can gently push/bend the pin(s) to ensure they poke through nicely.
- The chip itself is actually marked TDA1170N. Noting that “N” on the end. I haven’t looked up the other variants, but fyi that both my SE and SE/30 boards had the ’N’ on the IC’s part number stamp.