3D Printing & MacEffects Appreciation
- Thread starter wottle
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actually, this was not supposed to get posted yet, i will mend it today once i found the correct files
Hmmm.... The Mac version doesn't want to let me import STP...
If you cannot create an STL file (which all modern Macs support on the OS level), then perhaps you could post it to Printables, since that site has a built-in viewer, as you can see in this example...
If you cannot create an STL file (which all modern Macs support on the OS level), then perhaps you could post it to Printables, since that site has a built-in viewer, as you can see in this example...
So I've been working on my Mac Effects SE/30 and thought I would share some photos of simple 3D prints I've made.
First up is a semi-transparent gasket for the speaker. I noticed that the Mac-Effects case omits the speaker gasket and I'm assuming that most people don't want to re-use the black rubber gasket from the original case in a clear case. I made a semi-transparent one with flexible TPU and I also have orange glow in the dark TPU that I haven't used yet but I eventually plan to swap this gasket out for that one. I looks nearly identical with the added ability to glow. Additionally I have made replacement black rubber gaskets as shown below in flexible PLA (left over from a 3D airless basketball project) in case there is a need for them in original cases.
Aside from that I also remade the back neck board cover with semi-transparent glow in the dark PLA filament:
I also printed Caver01's brightness wheel in the same semi-transparent glow in the dark PLA filament. I still need to get around to installing it:
Overall I'm pretty happy with the prints so far. I'm also thinking about scanning the original analog board warning cover and laser cutting new clear ones out with the etched in warning labels etc. on a thin flexible acrylic sheet.
First up is a semi-transparent gasket for the speaker. I noticed that the Mac-Effects case omits the speaker gasket and I'm assuming that most people don't want to re-use the black rubber gasket from the original case in a clear case. I made a semi-transparent one with flexible TPU and I also have orange glow in the dark TPU that I haven't used yet but I eventually plan to swap this gasket out for that one. I looks nearly identical with the added ability to glow. Additionally I have made replacement black rubber gaskets as shown below in flexible PLA (left over from a 3D airless basketball project) in case there is a need for them in original cases.
Aside from that I also remade the back neck board cover with semi-transparent glow in the dark PLA filament:
I also printed Caver01's brightness wheel in the same semi-transparent glow in the dark PLA filament. I still need to get around to installing it:
Overall I'm pretty happy with the prints so far. I'm also thinking about scanning the original analog board warning cover and laser cutting new clear ones out with the etched in warning labels etc. on a thin flexible acrylic sheet.
Sorry for being late to the party!
I don't recall how thoroughly I searched for other models, but I think I opted for my own design because I wanted to justify my Shapr3D license.
I did not realize people were actually using my design as no one has marked it as a 'make' on Printables or provided any feedback. I know my design is a little loose on some boards as I've had to swap out analog boards and know there is some variation. Usually, it still fits enough to "turn". I'd be really interested in hearing if there are modifications I could do to make my model better.
It's funny as I've collected a bunch of parts for my MacEffects clear case build (SE/30 reloaded board, zigzagjoe LCD kit, AustrianMegaTech's acrylic screen cover, blueSCSI, zigzagjoe accelerator, etc) and was watching @JDW 's video on installing the LCD kit when I saw the other video about the dimmer knob and found this thread. I
The resin prints look really cool. Almost enough for me to buy another resin printer and get back into that. It's so messy but it may be worth it.
TPU is a tad more soft and certainly more squishy than PLA and other filament types, but is firm like hard rubber. Are you deliberately using TPU for a speaker gasket because it offers vibration damping and makes the sound from the speaker better? (Which is why you chose it over 100% transparent resin?) Or does the damping from your TPU speaker gasket cause a slight reduction in perceived volume levels?
Separately from that, how well does your bright knob turn relative to the stock knob?
The reason I ask how well the knob turns is because when I did my brightness, knob video, I printed the knob in a variety of plastics and found that 100% transparent resin was the smoothest to the touch, and therefore turned the smoothest as a result. It’s just as good if not better than the stock knob.
Separately from that, how well does your bright knob turn relative to the stock knob?
The reason I ask how well the knob turns is because when I did my brightness, knob video, I printed the knob in a variety of plastics and found that 100% transparent resin was the smoothest to the touch, and therefore turned the smoothest as a result. It’s just as good if not better than the stock knob.
TPU and Flexible PLA feel relatively similar when they are as thin as this since its basically solid infill at 1.5mm thickness. Holding the original gasket and my printed versions doesn't feel too much different to me in terms of texture and flexibility.
I used TPU because I wanted a material with similar flexible properties to the original gasket and for it to be semi-transparent to make the MacEffects speaker still presentable when looking at the Mac. I noticed that a lot of other people's MacEffects builds we're forgoing the gasket and I was concerned that vibrations from the speaker would resonate on the acrylic case without using something between it and the speaker like it was originally designed with. All said and done when playing audio from a stock SE/30 or playing audio from a MacEffects case with the TPU or Flexible PLA gasket; the sounds are exactly the same. Installing the speaker without the rubber gasket may be fine too given that i haven't seen comments about the speaker vibrating annoyingly on the case on other builds. I guess it just comes down to my own personal preference.
As for the resin knob; I would suspect you are correct that it may turn smoother than any FDM printed knob like the one I printed. It really comes down to the layer lines or printed layer height and the texture of the material at the end of the day. The glow in the dark material from Hatchbox has a more coarse feel to it than stock or resin. I'll try to install it next weekend to give a more formal opinion on it. I can also change out my print nozzle from the standard .4mm to a smaller .2mm and reduce the layer height to see I can get it ever smoother, though, resin will always produce the smoothest, most detailed parts.
Thank you for that confirmation.
And just to add one detail... The clear MacEffects speaker looks great in the clear case, but because it is 8Ω and not 63Ω like the stock speaker, the maximum volume level of the clear speaker is lower than the stock speaker. The amplifier can't supply enough power for the low-Ohm speaker and the volume is reduced accordingly. That does not pose any problem. It is just an observation from my own experience with the clear speaker and stock.
Hi Tinkerers, I have made a HDD bracket design for 3D printing, it fits the Colour classic prints well and fits well also. i had a CC with it missing, so now we can print our own.
Printables link: https://www.printables.com/model/1468511-hdd-bracket-macintosh-colour-classic
Printables link: https://www.printables.com/model/1468511-hdd-bracket-macintosh-colour-classic
