This is primarily based on the design by @ArjenCNX in this thread. I have made some modifications to the files to support any iPad 1, 2, or 3: 9.7" panel that you can rescue from a non-functional iPad. There are enough changes to warrant this as a separate thread, so I don't flood the thread and the great work already done by @ArjenCNX. I did not do any modifications to the driver board, so this will still take VGA (VGA card in //e) and HDMI (A2CDVI on //c). The board I chose does not have composite input, but as noted, there are many driver board options available for iPad displays.
Parts used:
- iPad 9.7" LCD panel (from iPad 1, 2, or 3)
- iPad driver board and control panel (various models available) and appropriate power supply
- STL 3D printed files (will attach when completed)
- 2x 3" 10-32 screws and nuts (M5-0.8x70mm or 75 are the metric equivalent and will work interchangeably)
- various small wood type screws (I rescue and repurpose, so I don't know the sizes)
STL files:
Attached below with instructional PDF.
Changes from @ArjenCNX model:
- No de-soldering components from the drive controller board
- Recessed back panel to make room for cable connections and power
- Back panel is now 2 pieces to save on support material during printing
- Base has a rise in it to accommodate thicker cables like VGA
- No USB-C power, you figure out your power cables on your own
- Thicker bezel for the LCD driver board
- Changed smooth knobs to grooved for better grip when tightening
- Changed internal screws so there is decoupling between the hinge so it never loosens on its own
- Modified knobs to accept a nut on a screw so no allen/hex wrench required
- optional base for //e usage
Exploded illustration:
Problems along the way.
I picked up a used Creality CR10 for cheap so I would have a larger print volume. It needed some love and adjustments, and I don't have it completely tuned yet, so I wasted a lot of precious Retro Platinum in the process. Elephant's Foot, bed plate adhesion, and other things plagued me. I also installed a 0.8mm nozzle for thicker layers and faster printing. I prefer to print face down to eliminate a lot of support material waste.
I was too focused on the design to test everything before I made my prints and I ended up putting the display mounts in upside down. I have to redesign and reprint.
The Elephant's Foot causes the first few layers to be larger and that caused some of the tight gaps to close in on themselves. I increased the space but still not enough to offset the EF issues, so I got creative with a knife tip on my soldering iron and cleaned it up with an Xacto knife. Super ugly, but you won't see it at all from the outside or front.
I was able to reprint the correct bezel orientation and install the iPad1 LCD. I haven't cleaned up the brim yet.
More to come, I will update this post as I complete it....
Parts used:
- iPad 9.7" LCD panel (from iPad 1, 2, or 3)
- iPad driver board and control panel (various models available) and appropriate power supply
- STL 3D printed files (will attach when completed)
- 2x 3" 10-32 screws and nuts (M5-0.8x70mm or 75 are the metric equivalent and will work interchangeably)
- various small wood type screws (I rescue and repurpose, so I don't know the sizes)
STL files:
Attached below with instructional PDF.
Changes from @ArjenCNX model:
- No de-soldering components from the drive controller board
- Recessed back panel to make room for cable connections and power
- Back panel is now 2 pieces to save on support material during printing
- Base has a rise in it to accommodate thicker cables like VGA
- No USB-C power, you figure out your power cables on your own
- Thicker bezel for the LCD driver board
- Changed smooth knobs to grooved for better grip when tightening
- Changed internal screws so there is decoupling between the hinge so it never loosens on its own
- Modified knobs to accept a nut on a screw so no allen/hex wrench required
- optional base for //e usage
Exploded illustration:
Problems along the way.
I picked up a used Creality CR10 for cheap so I would have a larger print volume. It needed some love and adjustments, and I don't have it completely tuned yet, so I wasted a lot of precious Retro Platinum in the process. Elephant's Foot, bed plate adhesion, and other things plagued me. I also installed a 0.8mm nozzle for thicker layers and faster printing. I prefer to print face down to eliminate a lot of support material waste.
I was too focused on the design to test everything before I made my prints and I ended up putting the display mounts in upside down. I have to redesign and reprint.
The Elephant's Foot causes the first few layers to be larger and that caused some of the tight gaps to close in on themselves. I increased the space but still not enough to offset the EF issues, so I got creative with a knife tip on my soldering iron and cleaned it up with an Xacto knife. Super ugly, but you won't see it at all from the outside or front.
I was able to reprint the correct bezel orientation and install the iPad1 LCD. I haven't cleaned up the brim yet.
More to come, I will update this post as I complete it....
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