This is primarily based on the design by @ArjenCNX in this thread. I have made some modifications to the files to support any iPad 1, 2, or 3: 9.7" panel that you can rescue from a non-functional iPad. There are enough changes to warrant this as a separate thread, so I don't flood the thread and the great work already done by @ArjenCNX. I did not do any modifications to the driver board, so this will still take VGA (VGA card in //e) and HDMI (A2CDVI on //c). The board I chose does not have composite input, but as noted, there are many driver board options available for iPad displays.
Parts used:
- iPad 9.7" LCD panel (from iPad 1, 2, or 3)
- iPad driver board and control panel (various models available) and appropriate power supply
- STL 3D printed files (will attach when completed)
- 2x 3" 10-32 screws and nuts (M5-0.8x70mm or 75 are the metric equivalent and will work interchangeably)
- various small wood type screws (I rescue and repurpose, so I don't know the sizes)
STL files:
Changes from @ArjenCNX model:
- No de-soldering components from the drive controller board
- Recessed back panel to make room for cable connections and power
- Back panel is now 2 pieces to save on support material during printing
- Base has a rise in it to accommodate thicker cables like VGA
- No USB-C power, you figure out your power cables on your own
- Thicker bezel for the LCD driver board
- Changed smooth knobs to grooved for better grip when tightening
- Changed internal screws so there is decoupling between the hinge so it never loosens on its own
- Modified knobs to accept a nut on a screw so no allen/hex wrench required
- optional base for //e usage
Exploded illustration:
Problems along the way.
I picked up a used Creality CR10 for cheap so I would have a larger print volume. It needed some love and adjustments, and I don't have it completely tuned yet, so I wasted a lot of precious Retro Platinum in the process. Elephant's Foot, bed plate adhesion, and other things plagued me. I also installed a 0.8mm nozzle for thicker layers and faster printing. I prefer to print face down to eliminate a lot of support material waste.
I was too focused on the design to test everything before I made my prints and I ended up putting the display mounts in upside down. I have to redesign and reprint.
The Elephant's Foot causes the first few layers to be larger and that caused some of the tight gaps to close in on themselves. I increased the space but still not enough to offset the EF issues, so I got creative with a knife tip on my soldering iron and cleaned it up with an Xacto knife. Super ugly, but you won't see it at all from the outside or front.
More to come, I will update this post as I complete it....
Parts used:
- iPad 9.7" LCD panel (from iPad 1, 2, or 3)
- iPad driver board and control panel (various models available) and appropriate power supply
- STL 3D printed files (will attach when completed)
- 2x 3" 10-32 screws and nuts (M5-0.8x70mm or 75 are the metric equivalent and will work interchangeably)
- various small wood type screws (I rescue and repurpose, so I don't know the sizes)
STL files:
Changes from @ArjenCNX model:
- No de-soldering components from the drive controller board
- Recessed back panel to make room for cable connections and power
- Back panel is now 2 pieces to save on support material during printing
- Base has a rise in it to accommodate thicker cables like VGA
- No USB-C power, you figure out your power cables on your own
- Thicker bezel for the LCD driver board
- Changed smooth knobs to grooved for better grip when tightening
- Changed internal screws so there is decoupling between the hinge so it never loosens on its own
- Modified knobs to accept a nut on a screw so no allen/hex wrench required
- optional base for //e usage
Exploded illustration:
Problems along the way.
I picked up a used Creality CR10 for cheap so I would have a larger print volume. It needed some love and adjustments, and I don't have it completely tuned yet, so I wasted a lot of precious Retro Platinum in the process. Elephant's Foot, bed plate adhesion, and other things plagued me. I also installed a 0.8mm nozzle for thicker layers and faster printing. I prefer to print face down to eliminate a lot of support material waste.
I was too focused on the design to test everything before I made my prints and I ended up putting the display mounts in upside down. I have to redesign and reprint.
The Elephant's Foot causes the first few layers to be larger and that caused some of the tight gaps to close in on themselves. I increased the space but still not enough to offset the EF issues, so I got creative with a knife tip on my soldering iron and cleaned it up with an Xacto knife. Super ugly, but you won't see it at all from the outside or front.
More to come, I will update this post as I complete it....
