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I mean that's basically what happens when you use a floppy disk or zip drive on a modern computer with usb. It doesn't recognize it for what it is, it just mounts as a generic drive.

A IIfx with wifi... :O

What is the drive in floppy slot 2? Or the thing on top of floppy drive 1?? These are the questions that need answering!

It did! They can be turned on from the Options menu.

Just got myself the Kensington ADB numpad, the "NoteBook KeyPad", so that I could upload its exclusive software "Adding Machine" to the garden! Check it out here: https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/adding-machine

Gosh dang temperature, gosh dang it....

Would it not be possible to have some sort of "tuner" that allowed the end user to finely adjust to their specific machine's video clock speed, if it's that variable? I am not an engineer, so forgive my naivité!

If you can somehow track one down, early SuperDisk drives were offered in SCSI, which, in addition to reading SuperDisks (LS-120), would also be able to read standard floppies (1.4MB only). There was also apparently a Floptical drive from Iomega? Don't quote me on that one.

Saw the cross-post on MLA; good luck!

What are the two blue components in the photo?

@Kai Robinson had previously let me know about www.peconnectors.com (Phoenix Enterprises), based in Chatsworth, Southern California, from whom I was able to order dual vertical 30-pin SIMM slots for my Mac II, though they do have a minimum order amount of $30 US.

Possible that the controller chip in the keyboard was blown at some point...

What may I ask contributes the most to the cost of the device? (Obviously I'm sure the labor involved in creating it is reason enough!)

Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying!

Am I understanding correctly, that there'll room for three 32MB modules?

For the 3D-printed ones, you might consider sanding down the head-rest portion with fine grit sandpaper to get them as close to a smooth polish as possible.

Ah yes, maybe a little difficult if you're unsure, especially with the plastic clips on the keyswitch holding them to the frame. Good luck with the wd40! Hopefuly that does it.

Unfortunately I don't have calipers to measure, and there's a rim blocking the edge, but here are some pics to compare. The head area is noticeably thinner, being more translucent than the rest of the plastic.

If you can manage it, desolder the caps that don't work, then gently open them by prying open the bottom base. You should be able to take them apart. Apply a cleaner like DeOxit or just gently clean the metal contact directly. Then put back together! Barring that, spraying some WD-40 directly...