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Since this has now largely become a 3D printing thread, I'd like to ask if any of you STL file creators know why the following model looks "transparent" in places... Take note of this little arrow... Now look at the view below and note how the arrow looks like it is suspended in mid air...

I have my JLC order on hold, so I look forward to hearing your feedback. Thanks!

Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I actually often buy JLC3DP prints in SLS Nylon because of the lower price. But it can be almost too flexible at times. For example, I had a 040 heatsink clip, created by @jmacz , printed in SLS Nylon but the protruding arms ended up not being straight...

I added your fan bracket to my JLC3DP price quote today, hoping to have in printed in PA12-CF (Carbon Fiber reinforced Nylon), but JLC says some portions of the bracket (as shown in red below) are 0.5mm or less. Do you think that is a non-issue and I can safely just tell them to print it...

This is what I have in my JLC3DP Cart right now... 1) Resin Printing (no brim needed): Resin is more brittle and less forgiving when it comes to plastic flexing, but this print will provide a 100% transparent brightness knob. 2) FDM printing (brim needed to satisfy their min. size...

This thread seems to have been 3D printing focused since Post #6. :-) But for a very logical reason. The topic of the CLEAR CASE from MacEffects naturally leads everyone to ponder the important bits which need to be made clear, such as the brightness knob... And that brightness knob also...

Yes. Here is your "Mac_SE_Brightness_Knob_Combined.stl"... Until now, I've only had things printed in JLC Black Resin. Lots of Resin choices, but none are as durable as PLA, I don't think. So for example, if that inner piece (with split down the middle) is supposed to flex a bit, I'm not...

Looking forward to hearing back from you after it has been printed and tested. The original feet are here. I had issues getting aeberbach's original STL file printed at JLC3DP because it was a single file with two parts needing printing, which is a big no-no at JLC3DP: So I contacted him and...

2010 iMac running Sonoma? If so, how does it perform? My wife has been using our late 2009 27" iMac with Intel i7 all these years. I bought the top end model at the time, which is why it's lasted so long, although I did have to bake the video card to keep it going. It's still working, but I've...

You know, I've largely forgotten the details about the upgrades I performed on my very first Mac back in the 80's. I only remember it started out as a 128K Mac, then got upgraded to a 512Ke and then a Plus, and I believe I added that very Brainstorm upgrade too. I eventually sold that machine...

I have a 5126 Backlit Portable, and there are some very minor areas of darkness, but nothing on order of what this thread is showing. I also am aware there is no modern replacement for the LCDs used on the Portable, but is the same true of PowerBooks? They are all custom made panels?

I guess the question is, "for how long"? We know how long the wet stuff stays on — for decades until it hardens like a rock. Dry lube won't harden, and so long as it will truly stay in place for many years, it sounds like a great alternative to wet lubricants.

I recently did a video about the ZigZagJoe LCD Color Kit for the SE/30, which is a fantastic product. It makes me quite sad there is no similar solution for the PowerBooks. That old tech degrades, and while I'm shocked at how well your bake worked, the fact is the tech hasn't de-aged as a...

You seem to be talking about this very faint ghost window... How long before it vanishes completely, or does it never vanish until power is cycled?

Sadly, I don't own any of those models, and because of that, I have no answers to your important questions. My concern would be that if HUMIDITY was the root problem, the tunnel vision would come back over time because you wouldn't leave it in a sealed container with desiccants all the time...

Oh, so you're not on US 120VAC power then. I was thinking you were. 220VAC means your Mac's Analog board is an International Version. And it means your Hyperdrive's PSU would need to be made for that power level too, unless it can accommodate 120VAC or 220VAC. But I would assume the PSU...

OK thanks. It's easier to ponder on B&W CRTs like the SE/30. And when you crank up the brightness on the Analog Board too high, you can actually see odd bits of light in the otherwise black border surrounding the display area. Then you know you need to back down the brightness at the Analog...

I didn't mention Juicy Crumb as the third buying option only because when I used a VPN based in the US to see the price for US buyers (which I have to do because I live in Japan, and that site forces you to see fixed prices based on your location, with no option for the visitor to switch price...

This is my upscaled and reimagined Macworld magazine Premier issue Cover. I started with the highest resolution image I could find, then I upscaled that, edited the text, the removed all text that covered the table area where the Macs are sitting. I did this for a recent video and it came out...

In a recent video, I needed a good quality Macintosh II photo, so I upscale and hand-tweaked the best photo I could find on the net, and these two photos were the result. One photo is just of the Mac II only, with replacement graphics on the CRT added by me. The second is the same photo but...