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So here's a super mahoosive photo of the card without the heatsink. The shiny parts around the CPU legs are flux residue, not solder bridges -- I inspected the card under the microscope for those. I also recapped the motherboard just to get that out of the way, and there's no change. It still...

CA glue is probably fine (and certainly a lot easier to obtain) but if you want a more "official" SMD component glue, something like Loctite 3609 is what gets used to secure parts to PCBs before they go through reflow during manufacturing.

I'll see what I can do -- but I'm starting to suspect the motherboard. I dug out the dual-CPU card from my 9500 and while the machine boots with it installed, the DayStar utility reports that one of the CPUs isn't working. That *could* just be a software thing, but it's a bit peculiar nonetheless.

I have a DayStar Genesis MP with the quad CPU card, and it doesn't want to boot. Pressing the power button gets the system to power on, but there's no chime, video, or hard drive activity. The system has a brand new PRAM battery. Swapping the CPU card for another one, like a Sonnet G3...

Sounds like cracked solder joints on the analog board -- a common problem with that model. As the machine heats up, the components expand slightly and eventually make connection.

Here's my entry.

This is an interesting tidbit to learn -- I always assumed that the motherboard did some advanced ROM-level trickery to present a different SCSI ID to the host Mac than what the internal drive is set to. It's maybe even more clever that the motherboard simply changes the actual ID of the drive...

If you liked Scotty's video, you'll love this whole channel: https://www.youtube.com/@onsenjazz

Having done several standoff replacements, I'm confident in the strength of brass inserts that have been melted into FDM parts. I have no basis for comparison of the strength of FDM vs SLA parts themselves in this application, though -- my gut tells me it probably doesn't matter.

I can't say I've ever seen that before, but given the part number on the PCB and the quality of the wiring, I'd actually suspect this is a factory bodge.

Thanks, I'll let you know if I need it -- I've managed to secure a donor board, but I haven't received it so I don't know its condition quite yet.

Yeah, that was the main reason why I decided to recap the board...but those traces really all did look fine. This board definitely wasn't a battery bomb victim, and I'm starting to suspect its original factory caps hadn't really even started leaking. The known-good board from my other Color...

First thing that comes to mind is potentially a voltage issue. Perhaps try using the PSU from your known-good machine with the problematic board, if you haven't already?

I swapped the ROM chips with my known-good CC board, no change. The originals (and the ones I swapped in) were seated just like the ones in your photo.

So to be clear, by "grey screen" this is what I'm getting -- this is in a CC chassis with an analog board that I know needs to be recapped, and with a good board installed I still get flickering/changing levels of brightness. In its own chassis the display stays blank (but with a good board...

Got some time last night to try this out. I'm getting 4.85V from RST on both DFAC and CUDA (pins 24 and 15, respectively) when the machine is powered on. Nothing happens when I try an NMI though. EDIT: Forgot to mention that I tried swapping the ROM chips between the two boards, and that didn't...

I'm well-aware of Yahoo Auctions Japan, I've bought a *lot* from there over the years ;-) The difficulty is shipping -- if I were in Japan it would be a no-brainer to pick up what I need from there (or even just keep an eye on shops like Hard-Off) because domestic shipping is economical and very...

This is a very valid take on the situation, and I've definitely considered just turning this machine into a Mystic and being done with it. The problem for me is one of economics -- the Mystic mod seems to be even more popular now than it was when it was new, but the prices for LC 575s (or even...

The area around the DFAC looked clean, but I went ahead and desoldered it to clean underneath anyway. I soldered it back down and unfortunately I'm still getting the same results. I've started testing for connectivity from both DFAC and CUDA, but the Bomarc schematics suggest there's only two...

Well, I removed the EGRET chip and found some electrolyte residue underneath but no trace damage. Got it cleaned up and resoldered the same EGRET back on, but no dice -- the problem persists. I'm not willing to swap the EGRET from my working board, so I'll need to find a donor or see if UTsource...