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If anyone runs into this, I may have some suggestions that could help. I ended up removing the CRT, then disconnecting the plastic frame that holds the analog and logic boards from the front face of the case by depressing the two tabs on each side where it joins to the front of the case...

Anyone else have extreme difficulty removing the Color Classic analog board after all cables have been removed. I watched @Branchus' video on the removal and his slides right out. Is it possible the edge connectors are fused somehow. I've used a good amount of force and cannot get it to...

What about Previous for NextStep? https://previous.unixdude.net/about.html

Unfortunately, I have the IIc Plus, otherwise, I'd be in for this!

Not my work table, but this was my setup a while back. Ended up being a little too crowded, so I've narrowed it down to just 4 machines up top, ready for use. Planning on swapping the SE for my Mystic Color Classic once I finish the upgrades (so far I've recapped the 575 logic board, added a...

As for the security slot idea, I can confirm that a microSD card extension cable like the one @Kai Robinson linked to can be inserted through the security port. I wanted access to the SD in my Classic II, which doesn't have the expansion slot of the SE or SE/30. So rather than damage the case...

Yeah, I tried removing everything not necessary when I first started troubleshooting. No change. So, I finally decided to avoid the inevitable and took the CPU / water cooling assembly off and confirmed what I suspected (but was hoping I was wrong). The cooling system was leaking, but not...

Yeah, I've done the air cooled ones and it's not bad. Just never the liquid cooled ones. I have a Torx driver that worked to get past the heatsinks on the air cooled ones. Hopefully it will work to get the liquid cooling system out. While I do that, I'm probably going to redo the liquid...

So, I've been distracted with other things, but I've been unable to get it to boot successfully from the AHT / ASD disk while also putting out video. I'll try getting into Open Firmware if I can get video out again. And also try booting in verbose mode. It's inconsistent in how far into the...

Let me know if you build a capacitor list when you do it. Just picked up an older eMac and will add it to my backlog of machines to recap.

So, I did try to "broken" AGP card in my working G5 and it worked fine. I also tried throwing an additional PCI graphics card in there (it only had VGA out) and I didn't get vide out on either the DVI from the AGP card(s) or the VGA out on the PCI card. However, I just removed the AGP card...

So, I thought this earlier G5 2.5GHz machine was air cooled, but I now realize I was wrong. I'm going to hold off on doing anything with it until I can inspect the liquid cooling setup for leaks. I thought only the last year model had the liquid cooling. I'm guessing that alone will prevent...

Just picked up a really clean PowerMac G5 (dual 2.5 PCI-X). Owner said the video card was bad. I had another slower machine with a working video card, so I figured I'd just swap it out and have a nice, fast G5 as my bridge machine. When I first tried booting it up with the original graphics...

Thank you for your non-recommendations! Yeah, I was thinking of doing the TestFlight route, since I doubt the number of prospective users would be over that limit. I could script the builds and it would be pretty easy. I also considered making a Apple II catalog app, that would just be...

Awesome. I'll be doing that on my SE FDHD that's got a 25MHz 68030 upgrade card in it. The previous owner had a piece of paper wedged between the SIMMs to hold the lower one down. It works, but I want to do a proper fix.

I have an SE where the plastic clips holding the RAM down have broken. Has anyone removed these from the board and replaced them with new components that have metal retaining clips? I'd like to replace it and not have to worry every time I need to take memory out of the machine.

Others will probably have a more definitive answer, but I'd suspect that you may have some bad memory. How many sticks of RAM are in there? Have you tried booting with a single stick?

Yeah, my first self assembled DB25 kit, apparently my bluepill is sitting a bit high, because the jumper pins (and subsequently the jumpers) keep the top of the case from sitting flush. If you want a little more wiggle room in the top of your case, here's one that is 1mm taller. Also included...

My one concern about the slow sous vide method (especially if going for 24h) is floating pieces. Key caps can float and I worry about keys getting uneven coverage of the peroxide.

I believe the ozone method has been tried and was not effective. Also could be damaging to metals, I believe. Certainly something people can try, but so far hydrogen peroxide in the hot sun seems to be the most effective approach, if done with caution.