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Sorry for the delay, been traveling and busy with other things. Anyway, here is a comparison of the two different PLAs. Comparing the colorFabb PLA, ordered as part of the group buy here, vs. the light gray Amazon Basics PLA (next to a retro-brighted SE/30 case). The lighter color is the...

Not yet. I've got it pulled apart for a thorough cleaning and retro-bright. Still need to do a full restoration of the floppy. Once I have it all nice and pretty, I'll try to run an extended test. I also have a Mac SE with a MicroMac (or similar) 25MHz 68030 upgrade board. That one I've...

Also, here’s a few pictures of the Total Systems Gemini II 20Mhz accelerator board on the Plus logic board, for anyone curious. Later, I’ll also take a few photos of the correct pins for the IC hooks that attach to the analog board.

Additional update, and a lesson. I hadn't actually gotten around to inspecting the underside of the analog board, but probably should have started there. Sure enough, there were a few cracked solder joints. That may also explain why I thought the analog board had tested good in my 512k...

Update: I must have gotten mixed up when I was switching CRTs, analog, and logic boards. It does appear my issue is with the analog board that cam with the plus. I was able to confirm with a good logic board that the symptom remained (startup chime with no image on the CRT). I removed the...

I recently picked up a Mac Plus that had been updated with a Total Systems 68030 accelerator board. On powering it up, I get a nice clear startup chime, but no video. The floppy is toast, but I can see activity on my FloppyEmu when I have it plugged in. I've independently tested the CRT (it...

I will say since switching to the UV light box method, I've found it to be very forgiving and very much a set it and come back after 10-18 hours, depending on how bad the yellowing is. I wrap because I feel like dried peroxide is a greater risk than plastic wrap. I think when people see...

I no longer use peroxide in sunlight as the reaction is too strong. peroxide wrapped in plastic wrap completely to prevent drying, minimal air bubbles and a box lined with UV LEDs gives me perfect results every time. Just finished a Mac Plus and it looks fantastic. I don't like the submersion...

That looks like it will be a blast trying to get the latch to pop free. Thanks for the image. I read something about trying to get something through one of the tiny holes to pop it loose. Feels like I'm headed into broken plastic territory...

I should have the ColorFabb Filament on the way, as well as the Amazon Basics Light Gray. I will print two backplates for my Color Classic (Mystic) and show what they look like side by side with the CC.

Found a listing for a cube and studio CRT ADC and the owner wouldn’t split them apart. I already have a working Cube but always wanted the CRT to go with it. Bit the bullet and bought the bundle, figuring i could sell the cube myself and it’d basically be like I just bought the monitor. Went to...

I can't remember if there was much play in the mounting screws that hold the CRT to the front frame, but if possible, you could loosen the 4 corner screws and try to shift it in that direction a bit. Quite a bit safer than messing with the yoke (both to you and the glass nipple).

Step 1. I’ve confirmed I can pull 12v, ground, and the composit video out from the pins on the DB-15 connector. For those wondering, pin 8 is 12v, pin 12 is the composite video signal, and pin 13 is ground. Worked great with my existing screen and controller. The video is somewhat small on the...

I've heard boiling the belt can help with the belt. But to be clear, my belt appeared fine and was not slipping, so I left it alone. For me, it was the rubber roller on the rod slipping even when I could see the wheel attached to the belt was spinning appropriately. And boiling may work on...

Not sure if the mechanism is similar to that on the slot loaded powerbooks, but I believe on mine, it was a problem that the rubber sleeve on the roller for ejecting the CD was slipping on the metal rod it was installed on. I believe you can fix it by removing it and boiling it to shrink it...

I have an IIc and IIc Plus. I've seen @Javmast3r's video changing the B&W LCD from the original LCD kit for the IIc. However, those are in short supply and are getting expensive. iPad LCDs with control boards are cheap and relatively decent quality (e.g...

My problem with submersion is the amount of peroxide wasted. I've been on the same bottle of 40vol creme and have done probably a dozen cases (from a 512k to a 5400 to a 6100. I also worry about floating. I need to find a good method for keyboards / keys. keyboard cases are good, and...

Out of curiousity, when you got marbling, were you doing the plastic wrap method in the sun? Or the same, controlled LED panels?

Your photoshop skills are unmatched!

OK, sign me up for a spool. It's a lot, but I want to make this happen, and I'll be willing to print parts for others with the spool when I get it.