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When you have it open there’s a small screw underneath the little roller:This little roller is just held by friction, you can remove it by sliding a little flat screwdriver under it. Careful not to send the roller flying across the room (ask me how I know!) :ROFLMAO:

Took apart my recently acquired Turbo Mouse 4.0, there is two screws hidden under the label on the bottom, but that’s not all: there is what looks like two patches of a soft material attached to the underside of the label, I guess to clean the rollers: They have completely broken down with age...

If you can find another electronic board with electrolytic capacitors that is not working or you don’t have any use for, you can use it to practice recapping. Better ruin a disposable board than a precious vintage one!

This is a symptom of a very common problem with SE/30s: a recap is in order! Fortunately, there’s a lot of resources about it: you can start here, for example.

This concept design looks really cool, and then there’s this, that existed in the eighties: The VTech PreComputer 1000 So, who copied who?!…

Don’t be afraid, the CRT discharge procedure is not that complicated. A useful resource is Apple’s official Service Source manual for the early Macs. Hmm, I though the procedure was better illustrated in Apple’s manuals… Better watch @JDW video:

There’s a Teardown on iFixit, it’s for a 128K but they’re pretty similar, I think. It seems to me that all you have to do next is removing the analog board (the big vertical electronic board, iFixit call it the power supply) to gain access to the back of the front bezel. You may even won’t have...

You have to remove the back cover before, and for that you need the loooong torx screwdriver! Then it should be accessible from the bottom, behind the analog board, below the CRT?

What’s the problem with the GeForce 6200 and Mac OS 9? Alternately, a Radeon 7500 works well in a Cube, exists in a Mac version, and doesn’t run very hot (it is passively cooled).

Shielding (computer) electronics seems to be something that was needed back in the eighties? (if you ever took apart an Atari ST, the motherboard is entirely enclosed in a rigid steel shield) Maybe computers back then were more sensitive to external interference, or it was the other way around...

It’s a really cool project, but I was wondering wether I needed to make it. Turns out I already have a compact ADB keyboard, that even include a trackpad: the one that comes with the TAM!

Narrator: it does. :ROFLMAO:

Bloody Mary! Does this forum censor the name of mixed drinks? We don’t talk about cocktail around these parts?!

Maybe ask on a dedicated forum: https://www.atari-forum.com/ They even have a sub-section for music: https://www.atari-forum.com/viewforum.php?f=58&sid=a1bef0b870ab4641e5547296d16dd0a5

Maybe this is a solution: http://themacelite.wikidot.com/radeon-9000np-conversion

Inside my french AppleDesign Keyboard:

Having taken one apart recently, there’s two springs for the eject mechanism: maybe they’re not that springy anymore? See step 6 in this iFixit guide. Maybe just taking apart the Zip drive for a good cleaning and lubricating will fix it? When it works well, a Zip drive ejects disks quite brutally!

I have this SATA SSD + adapter setup in my Cube: The SSD is a Crucial C300 64Gb and on the unbranded SATA to IDE adapter it says AS330, the lone big chip on the adapter board is a JMD330.

I had my TAM lock up while reading from the CD-ROM drive when using a similar SD adapter. A CF card (+ passive adapter) being natively IDE is the more compatible solution.

It’s the physical installation of whatever replacement drive you’re using that is somewhat bothersome, because nothing will line up with the mounting points on the drive bracket of the TAM. Double-sided tape to the rescue! It’s the easiest way to do it, I think.