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It's amazing to me that there is not a dedicated tool for such a task. I guess it's an adjustment that's rarely performed but there had to be a bunch of other TV/monitors that had that same requirement. I like your solution to the problem and thanks for the reply!

The only way you could go wrong there is if the chips are fakes - but if you checked out the sellers feedback and he has no history of it, that's a solid purchase.

For clarification, are you using the same recapped Sony PSU, with your (4) different analog boards?

3D printed the PRAM adapters last night, the metal thumbtacks will be here tomorrow. The print has a positive polarity marking to demonstrate the correct orientation of the CR2032. The hole for the thumbtack is modeled in the bottom of the design and the CR2032 fits snugly in the slot, really...

I have purchased a few things from overseas since the tariffs began, none of them were $3 with $60 shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115579539929 EDIT: 30% was the steepest charge for shipping plus the tariff fee on ebay, on my past purchases.

Found a 3D printed adapter, should work, going to give this a go instead of paying that ridiculous shipping charge from France to US. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5867412

Going to go with this PRAM adapter, unless anyone has a better recommendation. https://www.tindie.com/products/jurassicomp/macbatt-internal-cr2032-pram-macintosh-battery/ EDIT: Shipping is $50 for (4) of these on Tindie!! Going to look for another option.

Got SE/30 #2's floppy auto inject working. The PO had bent a 'finger' on the rear left of the carrier assembly downwards and into the path of the inserted disk. Bent the part back in to shape and the 1.44Mb floppy is working correctly for all functions now. This is an 800K drive for an SE that...

After 5 hours and only the initial coating in peroxide creme, nearly all of the yellowing is gone now. The one on the far right has some marbling from doing this process out in the sun a couple of years ago, will coat it again and give it another 5 hours. Recapped the 1.44Mb floppy from SE/30...

Got the 15L Vevor Ultrasonic cleaner today, huge improvement over the 10L model. Where the 10L model took nearly 3 hours to get to 65°C, the 15L model reached 65°C in an hour and 10 minutes, perhaps there was an issue with the 10L I received previously. The SE/30 board easily fit in the 15L...

You'll be fine, you sound cautious and that's enough to keep you above ground :). Pretty sure the discharge procedure of the CRT is covered in the first video, if not the Analog Board recap video is a good one to watch too. 800K floppy recap: Eject gear replacement: Analog board recao:

SE/30 #2 was really yellow, the bezel was worse than the bucket shown behind it. 8 hours of the 10W UV LED light in a box lined with foil and slathered in 12% Peroxide Creme worked really well once again; like new. I did remove the Apple logo for the process, had one bleach out on an SE...

But the CRT would still be loose in that corner, needed to keep that altogether.

I would do that with metal but plastic is easier to fix. I won't say the following is the best way to fix a stripped case thread but I can say this definitely worked for me. Take a small-medium size clip tie and cut two pieces of it as long as the screw threads are: If the case isn't badly...

Specifically I'm looking to fix the screw hole where the CRT is grounded to. My front case/bezel arrived with the CRT ground hole in a stripped condition and when that screw pops out, the ground wire lets loose and I get video distortion. I've heard baking soda and super glue works to repair...

It's not that UE8 bodge wire causing the weird screen distortion in the video above, I just tried SE/30 #2's LB and it's doing the exact same thing. Glad in a way no to have to rework the #1 LB. Will try an SE AB and CRT tomorrow. Thinking about getting this trimmer set for adjusting the...

I do have the green UV mask stuff, will put that on the spots I scraped, thanks! Here's my UE8 bodge wire from Pin 10, this goes to the via under UC8: Going to need to remove UE8 and get rid of that bodge, or use what's left of the existing trace instead, reason being it causes video...

The ultrasonic cleaning with the correct Elma TEC Clean A1, should've neutralized and removed any further corrosion. I already have a new V5 Reloaded board that I was going to use on this project, but will sell it to someone else who can use it. Thanks.

Thanks so much guys! An interesting thing to note about the fix, is that I checked the Data and Address Matrix's, multiple times, it seems to me that perhaps D(1) was just hanging on by a sliver, or a thread of conductivity and when I did the Ultrasonic cleaning, it blew out the remainder of...

SE/30 #1 logic board now works also!! Turns out my simasima problem was missing D(1) all along. I had replaced my CPU socket to aid in troubleshooting, went back over all of the pins today and noticed D(1) was missing from CPU to socket pin, touched up the pin, got continuity to FPU UI5 Pin 2...