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I'm in the market for a new multimeter, and I'm curious to hear opinions on whether or why to go auto ranging. The one I have now is not auto ranging, and I kind of like the idea of having granular control over what range I'm measuring in, but I've never tried auto ranging before. What say you??

Right? I have some of these too and have never ever felt the need to use them.

Not sure. I've never installed a coin cell holder in a PB before. You'd have to measure and see what will work. The one in my 145B looks like a standard 20mm cell holder, like this: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/mpd-memory-protection-devices/BS-3/275305 --- but the orientation and...

Nice! Depending on your board, the PRAM battery is either soldered in or in a coin holder. If a holder, then obviously easy, just a CR2032. If soldered, you can use a Panasonic VL2330-1 or install a coin holder w/ CR2032. My 145B has the holder, which is nice.

There are two purity rings on the CRT neck you can adjust, that 'sweep' the display so you can center it... Larry Pina's Repair Secrets discusses the process starting on page 51 (page 68 of this PDF): https://vintageapple.org/macbooks/pdf/Macintosh_Repair_&_Upgrade_Secrets_1990.pdf You can use...

Is that known good / compatible RAM? (EDIT: LOL - didn't see everyone else's responses...)

Hey that's okay. Maybe, if you're up to it, you could do us the favour of documenting your disassembly. And there are also some content creators here who may have been alerted to a new subject idea!

Ahhh... THAT SuperDrive.... Sorry about the confusion. The one you have there is, it looks like, the Mitsubishi MF355F, and - yup - repair / restoration procedures certainly appears to be a hole that needs to be filled. I've never taken one apart myself, haven't had the need. This is the only...

And speaking of making a spot welder...

The take-apart and restoration procedures are pretty much the same. FDHD Technical Procedures Manual (PDF)

No, but I do happen to have a couple dead batteries open on my bench and took some pics (attached): First image shows the open seam. Note the part of the case around the terminals is not welded, it just separates. You only need to work around the seam on the top side. I just slowly, lightly cut...

For the external case teardown, iFixit has it: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Apple+3.5+Drive+External+Floppy+Drive+Teardown/92324 For cleaning, @Branchus of course:

If you're feeling tinkerish, you can also repack the battery case yourself - opening the case cleanly is the hardest part (it's ultrasonically welded), but replacing the Cyclons inside is easy enough - they just pull out, there's nothing fancy inside. You can either drop in a cheap 6V/5ah SLA...

Yeah! You were lucky!! I paid $80 for my AsanteTalk, and I think that was a steal....

Interesting. I agree that it seems unusual for low voltage to result in an issue on the logic board, and is more likely coincidental. Have you inspected the solder joints and pins of J7 on the logic board? Can you verify the reset button / circuit isn't shorted? Otherwise, it's time to break...

That looks identical to the AsanteTalk, but with more options (AUI and BNC for thin ethernet)

My first thought is that this is an issue related to the reset button, or something on that circuit - that's what that screen looks like to me. Have you tested the board outside of the case (just hanging out the back)?

I use an Xacto knife and slowly work it around the seam of the case. It doesn't take long, but don't rush it. Once you get in there, make sure to salvage the temp sensors for reuse. If you have access to a spot welder, the job is easy. I don't, so I used tabbing wire and solder, and it works...

A while ago, I whipped up a cheap solution to get the IIGS's RGB to output and upscale to VGA using the GBS 8200, following @jcm-1 's tutorial: It was SO much better than the crap composite output, but not great. Then recently, I saw on FB that there is a modification you can make to the GBS...

Nice! Congrats. :D You can definitely repack the battery - I've done a few. 10x 1.2v NiMH flat-top AA's -- two groups of 5 in series, joined in parallel. The higher the mAh the better of course - just make sure they're all the same.