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For the inverter board? Or for the display panel? (or both)

Ooh interesting. Nice find, and great site! So, this is one the three versions of passive matrix displays available for earlier 1xx Powerbooks, and requires a specific display cable and inverter board. It's a little different from the typical display: But afaik it should work in a 170 with...

Considering the absurd number of saved searches I have, it's really weird that I haven't set one up for this!! Which terms worked for you?

Yeah this approach is just SO much smarter than trying to use radial electrolytics... which is what I did and it was silly. It works of course and looks more 'original' (as if that matters), but it felt like I was twisting myself into knots.

Good question... I wonder if a suitable modern replacement could be found... you're looking for an active matrix 9.8" 1 bit display, 640x400.... I do wonder if a 640x480 would work. Oddball dimensions though The original part is (afaik, yours could be different) Hosiden HLR1014-101125...

Thanks @Kai Robinson - the part in question is the I/O door in this image...

Has anyone ever been able to find the I/O cover / door for the earlier iMac G3's?? It's the only thing missing / not right with my Bondi and it's driving me crazy. Is this something that could be made?

Haven't had the need myself, but yeah apparently it's a medium-term fix, but a fix none-the-less: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/tunnel-vision-on-monochrome-active-matrix-powerbooks.28706/post-384153

Welcome to the forum! And welcome from a fellow boater (sailor, really,) and Norwegian (well, my father is, born in Larvik... I'm Canadian though). What you describe as food culture rings true to my experience - my grandmother and her father were bakers, a lot of that food tradition has been...

Nope!

Yeah, better safe than sorry I'd say. Before you use those adapters, make sure to check them first --- they should read no higher than ~7.8V. These original adapters are (almost) guaranteed to have failing capacitors, which can sometimes result in pushing out way over spec, and some folks have...

A couple of reasons, but I freely admit neither is super definitive... First, a desire to be safe: my understanding is that while the PB100's power management and over-current protection is improved over the Portable's, the 100 is still more or less Sony's refactoring of the Portable into a new...

This is a good deal: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255334376062?hash=item3b731d627e:g:yxwAAOSwdthh448O Might need to be recapped, but that's part of the fun. :)

🍻 Apologies if it seemed overly pedantic... I figured the tables would be handy for future reference as this question does come up a lot and it's understandably confusing!

For all B/W models, yes. You'd need 3A to power a colour model; also, a 3A unit will safely power ALL 1xx models except the 100 and 150 (we're not including the 190 in this), so a good all-rounder.

(edited my last post to add the application matrix and a note on internal pn's)

Well, the 165c/180c adapter is 3A, vs 2A for the other 1xx adapters. Here's a (probably incomplete) list: PSU Model Associated PB Models Voltage Amperage Other PN's M5136 Portable (M5120 / M5126) 7.5V 1.5A CR-76U, SMP-10BB M5140 100/140/145/145B/170 7.5V 2.0A APS-20U M5651 160/165/180...

The consensus of folks much smarter than I is that the Portable depends on the PSU for limiting current draw to 1.5A and that, since the logic board is not isolated or buffered by the battery, using a 2.0A adapter is potentially inviting risk to certain critical IC's (PMGR, SWIM, etc) over the...

100%. Almost every city has a maker community or makerspace you can connect with, and most libraries these days have 3D printers you can use (and people around to help). Seeing that you're in Madison, WI, you could look into The Bodgery (https://www.thebodgery.org/) or the makerspace at UWM...

Same - had a couple of these go. Nice that the part is easy to source and inexpensive Digikey has tons in stock...