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I think you're talking about the Dr. Bott MoniSwitch: https://lowendmac.com/1998/moniswitch-adb-a-kvm-for-adb-macs/ Apparently you could still have to reset the ADB bus sometimes if you moved the mouse too soon after switching.

Got it disassembled and made some progress today. I gotta say, it was pretty slick removing one screw, pulling a couple tabs, and just lifting that whole middle section, drives, PSU, and all, straight off: I recapped both PSUs, and then turned my attention to the rather fishy smelling logic...

I dunno...back in the box it goes though :)

Wayback Machine came back online. Here's the purchase page for this device from 2004: I notice it doesn't mention keyboards or mice, so maybe this was meant for devices that were more tolerant of being connected/disconnected and didn't have pass-through connectors to continue the ADB chain...

No brand or manufacturer markings. These are the only mentions of this thing I've found online: http://powermac6100.blogspot.com/2006/07/usb-optical-mouse-with-power-mac-6100.html https://www.fixya.com/support/t102382-2_cpus_one_keyboard_adb So apparently the model number was MD4-103. I...

I just found this buried in a box: I know hotplugging ADB is generally frowned upon and has even damaged some boards. I wonder if this thing is safe to use, or if it would change ADB bus IDs and screwball my mouse settings or something?

I finally have time to try to get this thing working. After turning it on a few times with progressively more components installed and checking voltages until I was comfortable the PSUs weren't going to fry anything, I switched on both PSUs (secondary one first) and stood back...no magic smoke...

me too

Now I kinda wanna play with my CP/M Apple II card. Kind of a similar idea I guess...platform compatibility by just slapping a native CPU on a card :) I've got this new-in-box one for the IIc too, but my IIc's still need fixing up:

I remember playing 2-player DOS Doom over serial cable to an actual PC with mine when I was a kid.

Finally got this thing 100% done! full recap of the PSU and logic board replaced HD with a BlueSCSI new thermal paste on both CPUs added a slim, quiet 80mm fan behind the inlet vents 264MB RAM on the Mac side 32MB RAM on the PC side (PC wouldn't boot with a 64MB EDO SIMM installed :rolleyes:)...

I just read these off a 6100/66 board as best I could under magnification...these are the codes printed on each resistor, not their resistance values: R14: 102 R24: 275 R25: 472 R26: 228 (or 22R?) R27: 472 R28: 103 R29: 103 R89: 103

Which Turbo 040 do I have here? Is this the earlier revision that doesn't have the chip that was replaced on yours? I'm guessing so since mine has a daughterboard on the back (cache?) and I think the cache was moved on to the main board in later revisions. Does that make mine easier or harder...

That was a great read! Amazingly lucky finding all those replacement chips.

Ya, I suppose I could try running it off the 5V line and see if it's effective...should be about 1W that way if my math is right. Startup voltage is 7V though. I'll figure something out...

Maybe one that doesn't draw almost 5.5W and spin at 6000RPM and sound like a jet engine though :)

https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/6100-66-modding-cooling.41342/

The only way to get more space between the heatsinks would be to put a different style heatsink on the 601 because it is the taller of the two...the 486 heatsink is already pretty thin as you can see in early pictures in this thread. Mounting a different heatsink would be tricky though, and the...

No top vents. There are bottom vents under the plastic under the BlueSCSI in my picture (where the HD used to be), and then bottom vents under the PSU that the PSU fan exhausts out of. Then there are a few open "seams" in places where negative pressure could pull air in too (mostly at the rear...

I'm not too worried about that since I'm no longer powering a hard drive. I checked the voltages under the current load with the PC running and they're all still at spec. Another low amperage 12v fan shouldn't be a problem.