(2) Macintosh SE/30's - Full Restoration

[GreenBar0n]

Good effort. Just remember that any exposed copper needs lacquer applied to it to prevent from further damage.

You can use clear nail polish.

I do have the green UV mask stuff, will put that on the spots I scraped, thanks!


Here's my UE8 bodge wire from Pin 10, this goes to the via under UC8:

Going to need to remove UE8 and get rid of that bodge, or use what's left of the existing trace instead, reason being it causes video distortion, or a bulge where the active display occurs at the left and right borders:

The PO adjusted the picture to maximum size on the CRT, I don't have a trimmer tool that fits the SE/30 opening.

Can anyone recommend the best tool for adjusting the video trimmers on these Mac's?

 

[GreenBar0n]

It's not that UE8 bodge wire causing the weird screen distortion in the video above, I just tried SE/30 #2's LB and it's doing the exact same thing. Glad in a way no to have to rework the #1 LB.

Will try an SE AB and CRT tomorrow.

Thinking about getting this trimmer set for adjusting the picture, is there a better choice?


EDIT: Well, this is embarrassing, turns out the video distortion in the video above was caused by the ground strap wire that connects to the CRT screw in the case, the case/bezel hole is stripped and the screw and ground strap were just hanging there disconnected. Connected the ground and the picture is no longer doing that bulge trick. Picture perfect.

 

[GreenBar0n]

SE/30 #2 was really yellow, the bezel was worse than the bucket shown behind it. 8 hours of the 10W UV LED light in a box lined with foil and slathered in 12% Peroxide Creme worked really well once again; like new. I did remove the Apple logo for the process, had one bleach out on an SE previously, not taking any chances.

The video trimmer tool will be here tomorrow - hope it fits - then I can get the screen on SE/30 #1 adjusted back to factory spec.

SE/30 #2 on the left, has the new Noctua fan installed and is currently waiting for the 1.44Mb floppy caps and an eject gear; might get another BlueSCSI v2 for it and 3D print the rear access sled and then call these done. Will allow these recapped boards to burn in for a couple of hours tonight.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Got the 15L Vevor Ultrasonic cleaner today, huge improvement over the 10L model. Where the 10L model took nearly 3 hours to get to 65°C, the 15L model reached 65°C in an hour and 10 minutes, perhaps there was an issue with the 10L I received previously.

The SE/30 board easily fit in the 15L model and as a result I was able to use a single gallon of distilled water, with 5-10% Elma TEC Clean A1.

The board came out looking like new. Removed RAM, ROM, Video ROM and CPU for the process. 65°C for 10 minutes per side.

Used a hot air station at 212°F (lowest temp setting possible) and the fan on highest setting to remove the remaining water from under the sockets and chips. Will wait a full 24 hours for this to dry out and then test it tomorrow.

I currently have (2) SE's that were given to me - that started me down this path of restoring these - and (2) SE/30's that I purchased. I have keyboards and a mouse for all of them. Set out today to get the yellow off of the mouse's.

Covered in 12% peroxide creme.

Will let them sit under the UV LED for 5-8 hours, until they're Platinum color again, instead of yellowed/marbled.

 

[GreenBar0n]

After 5 hours and only the initial coating in peroxide creme, nearly all of the yellowing is gone now.

The one on the far right has some marbling from doing this process out in the sun a couple of years ago, will coat it again and give it another 5 hours.

Recapped the 1.44Mb floppy from SE/30 #2, lubed it with Molykote EM-30L and replaced the eject gear. Auto inject is having problems, it does two clicks instead of just one when the disk is inserted, need to go back over it and get it right, all other functions work well though.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Got SE/30 #2's floppy auto inject working. The PO had bent a 'finger' on the rear left of the carrier assembly downwards and into the path of the inserted disk. Bent the part back in to shape and the 1.44Mb floppy is working correctly for all functions now.

This is an 800K drive for an SE that will be restored today, it has the same carrier parts as the 1.44Mb, this is the part that was bent, it is attached to the pivot in the square on the left:

That 'finger' goes in this notch.

Got the video trimmer tool the other day. It worked great for all adjustments except horizontal.

The long allen key type driver on the right is what I had to use to get the horizontal adjustment to work.

Being that the allen key is a metal tool, it causes video distortion when inserted and with the display on but I can't find the correct plastic tool. Just have to insert it and turn it, then remove it to see the actual results.

If anyone can recommend the correct plastic trimmer tool for the horizontal adjustment, I'd rather have and use that. Either way, I was able to get the task completed.

I'm at the stage of needing the PRAM batteries installed. I have the lithium type but figured I had better convert the stock holder to a coin cell type. Can anyone recommend the best adapter for the coin cell to stock battery holder?

 

[GreenBar0n]

Going to go with this PRAM adapter, unless anyone has a better recommendation.

MacBatt internal CR2032 PRAM Macintosh battery by Jurassic Computing on Tindie

MacBatt internal CR2032 PRAM Lithium battery replacement for Apple Macintosh computers

www.tindie.com

EDIT: Shipping is $50 for (4) of these on Tindie!! Going to look for another option.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Found a 3D printed adapter, should work, going to give this a go instead of paying that ridiculous shipping charge from France to US.

CR2032 to LS14250 (1/2AA) adapter for Macintosh PRAM battery by Gael_FR

CR2032 to LS14250 (1/2AA) adapter for Macintosh PRAM battery : works on Macintosh SE, SE/30, Classic, Classic II, LC, LC II, LC III, LC475 / Quadra 605.You just need to add a metal thumbtack to the 3D printed model !

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Scout]

Found a 3D printed adapter, should work, going to give this a go instead of paying that ridiculous shipping charge from France to US.

CR2032 to LS14250 (1/2AA) adapter for Macintosh PRAM battery by Gael_FR

CR2032 to LS14250 (1/2AA) adapter for Macintosh PRAM battery : works on Macintosh SE, SE/30, Classic, Classic II, LC, LC II, LC III, LC475 / Quadra 605.You just need to add a metal thumbtack to the 3D printed model !

www.thingiverse.com

the shipping charge is caused by the taffifs. I have purchased from him before and these are very good. Somewhere the guy posted about the $50.00 charge and the cause. Also, some people suggested a group buy to offset the tarrif cost as these weigh next to nothing. Anyway, I wouldn't blame the supplier. It is not his fault. Before tarrifs, his shipping cost was very reasonable.

 

[GreenBar0n]

the shipping charge is caused by the taffifs. I have purchased from him before and these are very good. Somewhere the guy posted about the $50.00 charge and the cause. Also, some people suggested a group buy to offset the tarrif cost as these weigh next to nothing. Anyway, I wouldn't blame the supplier. It is not his fault. Before tarrifs, his shipping cost was very reasonable.

I have purchased a few things from overseas since the tariffs began, none of them were $3 with $60 shipping.

Pardon Our Interruption...

EDIT: 30% was the steepest charge for shipping plus the tariff fee on ebay, on my past purchases.

 

[GreenBar0n]

3D printed the PRAM adapters last night, the metal thumbtacks will be here tomorrow.

The print has a positive polarity marking to demonstrate the correct orientation of the CR2032. The hole for the thumbtack is modeled in the bottom of the design and the CR2032 fits snugly in the slot, really great design from the creator. I'll follow up when the thumbtacks arrive.

 

[S. Pupp]

As far as the correct tool for the horizontal adjustment is concerned, I made a mold of an Allen wrench using silicone putty, poured in epoxy, and made an epoxy wrench. It works fine.

 

[GreenBar0n]

As far as the correct tool for the horizontal adjustment is concerned, I made a mold of an Allen wrench using silicone putty, poured in epoxy, and made an epoxy wrench. It works fine.

It's amazing to me that there is not a dedicated tool for such a task. I guess it's an adjustment that's rarely performed but there had to be a bunch of other TV/monitors that had that same requirement. I like your solution to the problem and thanks for the reply!

 

[GreenBar0n]

Got the thumbtacks today, had to drill the hole out in the 3D printed adapter, could be because I printed it at .12 instead of .20 so it looks smoother. Once I got the thumbtack in, the adapter fits well.

Set the time and date, then powered it down, the time remains set.


Need to clean the yellow off of the bucket and then SE/30 #2 will most likely be sold.

Got the front panel LED hooked up to the BlueSCSI v2 Desktop.

 

[caver01]

Thanks for sharing your journey! It is inspiring to see another example of someone taking on an SE/30 restoration project. Having been down that road myself, I know how much of an exercise in patience this really is. Mine took me a year, though I was working, and certainly not troubleshooting every night! Still, it involved removing the sound chip multiple times, continuity testing so many address bus traces between the RAM, ROM, CPU etc. etc., bodge wires, UE8 chip replacement, not to mention re-capping, analog board challenges. . . you understand!

It seems every case is a little different which I think is why I enjoy these threads, as they all offer something new alongside a heavy dose of “been there, done that!” Anyway, thanks for posting and Well done!

 

[GreenBar0n]

Thanks so much @caver01, I really appreciate that!

Without the Simasima Repair Guide, I was stuck and lost, had to take a year off and wasn't sure I'd ever get SE/30 #1 to work. Finding this site and the guide was the only way I could get the confidence to try again and then eventually succeed. This site really is a pleasant place to visit. Glad to be here and thanks again for sharing your experience, great to find common ground with these classics .